Is a 10-step Korean skincare routine really worth it?

The 10-step skincare routine is entwined in South Korean beauty culture and we are all the luckier for it. It goes like this: start with a double cleanse using a balm or oil cleanser to break down the oily stuff, then follow with a water-based cleanser. Apply a toner to balance your skin’s pH, then a hydrating essence and a serum that targets your specific skin concerns. Exfoliate weekly and then apply a hydrating sheet mask. Daily, use an eye cream and a moisturiser with an SPF 50, and swap out the SPF for a barrier cream at night. Phew, that’s a lot!

So perhaps it’s unsurprising that a few years ago dermatologists in Korea began advising people who were experiencing skin sensitivity and redness to step back from their extensive routines and cut down to the basics. And so the “skincare diet” was born.

KraveBeauty founder Liah Yhoo: “I hadn’t been seeing results, so there was nothing to lose by simplifying it.”Credit: Getty Images

Liah Yhoo, the founder of Korean brand KraveBeauty, is an advocate. “If you have acne-prone skin, you kind of become desperate and try everything on the markets,” she says. “I once had a very extensive routine, using up to 12 different products. I was cleansing four times a day. I hadn’t been seeing results, so there was nothing to lose by simplifying it.”

This is how to do it. Step one: double cleansing. Begin with an oil cleanser like Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil ($49) to break down make-up and SPF, and finish with KraveBeauty Matcha Hemp Hydrating Cleanser ($32).

Step two: generous moisturising. Use a moisturiser containing antioxidants such as vitamins C and E plus hyaluronic acid to make your skin look plump and healthy. Try Etude House’s Soon Jung 2x Barrier Intensive Cream ($15), or Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Pink Juice Moisturizer ($35). Last but not least, of course, apply an SPF 50 sunscreen.

While trawling through the treasure trove that is Korean beauty, we found more must-haves. The Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask ($31) has water as its base, so it’s great for hydration; keep it close for soft and supple lips. Innisfree Green Tea Seed Hyaluronic Serum ($45), is sourced from South Korea’s Jeju Island and is a terrific barrier cream that locks in moisture and skincare ingredients overnight.

When it comes to face masks, we love cult brand Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Cream-Infused Mask ($106). And for wrinkles, try Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum ($119). Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop ($39) is perfect for sensitive skin, while those with acne-prone skin should try Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Serum ($43). For resurfacing and hydrating, try COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence ($38).

As ever, it’s all about picking and choosing. Good luck!

ASK STEPH

How many coats of mascara should I apply?

As long as your mascara hasn’t passed its use-buy date (around three months after purchase), the sky is the limit. For everyday wear, though, two coats is a great place to start. We love Maybelline Lash Sensational Sky High mascara in Blackest Black ($22).

Send questions via Instagram, @mrssdarling.

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