What is it?

It's goat. You know - Nanny, Billy and the kids. In Australia, young milk-fed goat is marketed as capretto, and more mature (weaned) goat as chevon. Goat meat is the most widely eaten meat in the world, and while Australia exports far more than it consumes, improved quality and availability mean the local market is also hotting up. ''It's a wildly underestimated meat,'' says Laura Dalrymple of Sydney's Feather & Bone organic meat suppliers.

Where is it?

In Melbourne, chef Ashley Richey takes the goat by the horns (well, the leg) at Mr Lawrence at the London, with roast leg of goat as a special every Wednesday for the month of June. ''The Boer goat meat we get from Seven Hills Tallarook goes so well with aromatic spice blends,'' he says. ''We rub the leg with berbere (Ethiopian chilli spice mix), slowly roast it, and serve it with kale, black-eyed peas, breadcrumbs and pinenuts.'' His cooking tip is simple. ''Low and slow.''

In Sydney, chef Luke Randall of Bondi's A Tavola has four goats delivered every week from Vic's Meat. ''Everyone thinks goat meat is only for curries,'' he says. Randall brines then pan-fries goat tongue to serve with pickled baby beetroots, shaved heirloom carrots and hazelnuts; rolls and confits the loins to serve with Jerusalem artichokes and brussels sprouts; and braises the firmer cuts into a ragu for A Tavola's renowned house-made pasta. ''It's a little stronger and sweeter than lamb,'' he says, ''but people aren't afraid of it, which is good.''

Why do I care?

Because variety is the spice of life. And because our goat industry deserves some support. And because it tastes good.

Can I do it at home?

Are you kidding? Cook young goat lightly so that it doesn't dry out, and slow-braise older goat for stews, ragus, curries and tagines.

GOAT RAGU WITH RED WINE

Cook the meat on the bone for maximum flavour, then serve with polenta or mash, or shred the meat off the bone to toss with pasta and serve with parmesan.

1.5kg goat meat on bone, chopped into chunks

2 tbsp olive oil

2 onions, halved and sliced

2 carrots, peeled and sliced

2 celery stalks, finely sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely sliced

300ml good red wine

400g canned tomatoes

2 tbsp tomato paste

1 tsp sugar

300ml stock or water

3 bay leaves

1 tbsp chopped thyme or rosemary, and extra for serving

1 tsp dried oregano

good pinch of dried chilli flakes

sea salt and pepper

1. Rinse the goat, pat dry, and season well. Heat one tablespoon of oil in a lidded ovenproof pan and brown the meat in batches, on both sides, then remove.

2. Add remaining oil and cook the onion, carrot, celery and garlic for 10 minutes until softened.

3. Add the red wine, tomatoes, tomato paste, sugar and stock, and bring to the boil, stirring.

4. Heat oven to 160C. Return the meat to the pan with bay leaves, thyme, oregano, chilli, sea salt and pepper, cover and cook in the oven for 1½⁄ to 2 hours until tender. Skim off any excess surface fat, scatter with extra herbs and serve.

Serves 4

SOURCING

NSW

Feather & Bone, Marrickville featherandbone.com.au

Sam The Butcher, 129 Bondi Road, Bondi 02 9389 1420 samthebutcher.com.au

A Tavola, Shop 2/75-79 Hall Street, Bondi 02 9130 1246

VIC

Goat meat is available from Hams & Bacon, 79 Nicholson Street, East Brunswick 03 9388 8858 hamsandbacon.com.au

Seven Hills Tallarook 1300 744 557 or 0411 110 107

Mr Lawrence at the London, 92 Beach Street, Port Melbourne 03 9077 4992