Not keen on crocodiles? As a nerd, I found plenty of fascinating things to do in Darwin

You don't have to channel Mick Dundee to have a great time in the Top End.

There's a lot more to do in the Top End than facing apex predators. Picture: Kirrily Schwarz

A certain image springs to mind when you picture the Northern Territory.

Most of us picture a particular sandy-haired man, aged somewhere in his 40s, sporting a crocodile-skin vest over a bare chest, a black Akubra adorned with crocodile teeth, and just in case you had any doubt, a knife. I’m talking about Crocodile Dundee, of course, Paul Hogan’s famous character from the hit film.

In the 37 years that have passed since it hit the cinemas, Darwin’s tourism industry has cashed in on this image of action, adventure, and toothy locals. You can swim alongside them at Crocosaurus Cove in the CBD, visit Crocodylus Park on the city’s outskirts, take a jumping crocodile cruise on the Adelaide River, or scout for the dinosaurs on a memorable trip to Kakadu National Park or Nitmiluk Gorge.

But if you’re not keen on coming face to face with an apex predator, don’t worry. There’s plenty to do in Darwin, even if you’re more of a nerd than a naturalist.

See a WWIIgun emplacement up close at Darwin Military Museum. Picture: Kirrily Schwarz

First on my list was the Darwin Military Museum, which includes the Defence of Darwin Experience. It’s an interactive experience that tells the story of the first Japanese raid in February 1942, which brought WWII to Australia’s shores. But it’s also easy to lose a few hours looking through the exhibits, which include a chance to look through a bunker and two 9.2-inch gun emplacements. It’s best to go in the morning, as many exhibits are outdoors, and adult tickets will set you back $20.

From there, it’s only 5km to the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory (MAGNT), which is free, fully air conditioned, and a great place to cool down. The main reason I wanted to visit is the permanent Cyclone Tracy exhibition, which captures the terror of the vicious Category 4 storm that flattened the city just before Christmas in 1974. It’s thoughtfully curated and even includes a sound room, where you can hear the roar of the wind on a recording made by a local priest. 

Most people go to Parap market for the laksa, but the art is also worth a look. Picture: Kirrily Schwarz

However, there’s plenty more to discover – the perks of having the museum and gallery together is that you can explore multiple different aspects of the Top End in one place. That means learning the stories of the Larrakia Traditional Owners, seeing scientific collections of Northern Territory fauna, and finding out how industries and infrastructure moved into the impossible landscapes.

Oh, and yes, you can also meet Sweetheart, the enormous saltwater crocodile that was taxidermied after it died during a relocation attempt. The 5.1m animal developed an unfortunate penchant for dinghies, and he tragically ended up at the big estuary in the sky instead of the local crocodile park.

Sweetheart is believed to have weighed 780kg, with a girth of 2.3m. Picture: Kirrily Schwarz

There are lots of other galleries tucked away in town, too. For example, if you’re heading to Parap Village Market (and you should), it’s worth sticking your head into the tiny Laundry Gallery, where you’ll find contemporary Aboriginal art in a range of formats. It's a quick stop, but it's worth it to see the "new spin" on ancient stories.

Closer to the city centre, it’s well worth going to see the Darwin Museum Underground WWII Oil Storage Tunnels, which were perhaps the worst-kept secret of the war. Digging in the sloppy  ground was no mean feat, but the result is spectacular – it’s a one-of-a-kind attraction, and only $9.50 to get in.

Sit at the controls of a decommissioned RDFS aircraft at Stokes Hill Wharf. Picture: Kirrily Schwarz

The Royal Flying Doctor Service (RFDS) Museum, on nearby Stokes Hill Wharf. I thought I’d knock it over in an hour, but I failed to take into account the two 20-minute films that play throughout the day, which are both very worthwhile – and not just because of the glorious, blessed air-con. This museum has two halves, which focus on the origins of the RFDS and the bombing of Darwin, which both include excellent virtual-reality exhibits and interactive displays, including the chance to hear from a captured Japanese pilot. Don’t let its small stature fool you – there’s plenty to do and it’s well worth the $30 entrance fee.

The Deckchair Cinema is a cultural institution. Picture: Kirrily Schwarz

The final stop on my nerd’s tour of Darwin was the legendary Deckchair Cinema. It’s open during the dry season and it gives you the chance to sit outdoors, drink wine, and watch great films, which range from new releases to classics, film festivals, and documentaries. There is also an option to add dinner, catered by a rotating list of local restaurants – I ended up happily watching Merkel, which examines the life of the former German Chancellor, while eating a Nepalese curry. But who knows?

If you time it right, you might even catch Michael J. Dundee on the big screen.

Originally published as Not keen on crocodiles? As a nerd, I found plenty of fascinating things to do in Darwin