Kate and William pose at Uluru as Prince Charles and Princess Diana did in 1983
FOR Prince William it was a poignant moment — it was to Uluru he was taken as a baby by his parents, Prince Charles and Princess Diana.
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HE has no memory of the last time his feet touched the vibrant red dirt of Australia’s matchless interior.
His age was George-esque; a diminutive future king with a full life ahead of him, and his visit was measured in minutes.
But Prince William knows who carried him. And he knows the distinct spot this unique place held in the heart of his mother, Diana; intrigue with the ancient cultures practised, awed by the striking landscape and its silence, moved to compassion by the plight of its people.
Thus his obvious reverence and attachment to this mystic, desert land and its inhabitants. His minders claim this visit is highly significant for him.
GALLERY: Kate and William in the Northern Territory
As the blazing sun began to dip behind the monolith, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge trekked along a red-dirt path towards Uluru’s pock-holed base. For a handful of minutes, theirs was the desert kingdom; alone to imbibe the silence at one of the deeply spiritual locales for the local Aboriginal tribes, the Kuniya waterhole.
“It’s nice and peaceful down there, very peaceful,’’ Prince William said.
Serenity aside, it was also an opportunity to receive some stark parental guidance from the quirky ancestral beings that are said to reside here.
Guides point to two important beings that surround the waterhole — Kuniya, the woma python woman and Liru the poisonous snake man, whom the latter clobbered over the head with a stick and avenged the wounding of her offspring.
Women’s intuition apparently, the prerogative of using force to protect ones children. The Duchess chuckled when she read the lesson on the interpretative sign. She’s got your back, George.
After their brief private moment by the waterhole, the Royal couple veered right up a pathway to a small cave, where they viewed Aboriginal artwork painted onto the base of Uluru.
Their guide, Sammy Wilson, couldn’t be better placed to explain what the artwork meant and the significance to the Mutitjulu people. His grandfather painted it; one of the last paintings to be splashed on the side of the massive rock.
“They had already seen that old bloke dance at the cultural centre, well that is the story of this place,’’ Mr Wilson said.
That context was a traditional song and dance performance from senior Anangu men and women, as the Royal couple sat under a thatched-roof wiltja (shade shelter), between Chief Minister of the Northern Territory Adam Giles and his wife Tamara.
Kate appeared nervous, perhaps discomfited as a bare-chested, painted old woman danced towards her, repeatedly turning to her side to ask Mr Giles questions _ always, as Kate does, articulating with her hands.
While Kate stared expressionless at the performances; Wills lapped it up, smiling throughout.
The traditional owners presented gifts made from local artefacts to the couple _ William a handmade wooden shield (tjara) used traditionally in battle to ward off the spears of enemies, Kate a necklace and earring set and a contemporary piece made by Anangu artist Kathy Buzzacott, while other gifts included a set of dot paintings on recycled paper made from mala (wallaby) poo and woven baskets.
It is only the lucky few, squished up against the security rope, that usually get to meet the Duke and Duchess and enjoy some fleeting conversation.
It helps if you have a baby. It’s kind of a new-parent thing.
After presenting some certificates at the Yulara National Indigenous Academy, Will and Kate made a beeline for the babies amid the waiting crowd.
Amanda Bartels had made the five-hour car trip from Alice Springs for this opportunity, with her ten-month-old son Nathan and her daughter Amee-Grace. And rewarded, she was.
Kate chatted about the difficulties of travelling with bubs, expressing awe at the way little Nathan handed the road trip. Nathan was more amused by the bracelet adorning the Duchess’ wrist.
“It could be good for teething,’’ she told Ms Bartels, as the ten-month-old inquisitively played with the gift.
Amee-Grace presented the Duchess with a hand-picked bouquet of native flora from Alice Springs. “Thank you so much. Girls you look so pretty in your dresses “Do the flies keep annoying you? There are lots of flies around aren’t there?,’’ the Duchess said.
She expressed amazement at the beauty of Central Australia, labelling the red-dirt countryside as “stunning” from the air.
Down the line of greeters, Will also worked the mums, meeting a boy born on the same say as his George.
“He needs a hat on today, it’s hot hot hot,’’ Prince William told mum Lisa Court.
“I understand it gets to 40 degrees here in summer,’’ he asked, before being corrected.
“More like 45’’ a random voice came from the crowd.
“45! I would be melting.”
Earlier, the Duke and Duchess were treated to a sunset at the soaring sandstone icon of Uluru and indulged in a rare moment of one-one-time on their Australia tour, albeit before the world’s media, as they took in the red centre’s most famous view.
They appeared relaxed, chatting and smiling as the sun began to slip behind Kata Tjuta (formerly known as the Olgas).
The moment was not quite as romantic as it might have been, thanks to the focused lenses and crowds at the end of the viewing spot.
As the royal couple approached the same schoolchildren they had met at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre earlier in the afternoon, William called out a loud “Hello,” before declaring of the sunset photo opp: “That was interesting.”
“We were just saying ‘How are you doing that?’” came one of the Northern Territory seniors reply, with a laugh.
The couple stayed to have a private chat and drink with the teens at the picturesque spot.
The sunset moment was not expected on the official tour schedule.
When the Duke and Duchess arrived at Uluru, the red earth of the red centre came alive with the beats and song of an indigenous welcome to country ceremony, or inma, as the Anangu people of Uluru formally acknowledged them to their land.
A group of elderly Anangu women and men from Mutitjulu sat less than a metre from the royals’ feet at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre as they sang songs and beat clapping sticks, or punt sticks, while bare-breasted women slowly danced and thumped their feet on the dry ground.
Catherine had made a wardrobe change from her arrival outfit into a Hobbs grey and white summer dress, sensibly ditching the heels for a pair of wedges, which in moments became caked in red dust.
A boy from the community presented the Duke and Duchess with a basket of Mala poo paper paintings — surely one of the tour’s less likely gifts. The couple appeared to enjoy the display, asking questions of their hosts and admiring their gifts, which also included a carved wooden (punu) shield.
The slow moving, even sun-drowsy dance was performed by just two elderly women and one man, their chests painted in bold patterns. The dances are considered an honour for the elderly to perform.
Sharon Davies of the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park said inma can be much larger affairs.
“A lot of people have been passing away so it’s getting smaller and smaller,” said Ms Davies.
Catherine spoke with a group of elderly Anangu women before moving to the fireside, the fragrant bloodwood smoke filing the small spectator area. Loud laughter went up from Catherine when William made a joke about a wooden snake that sat near the fire.
The Duke and Duchess then headed into the cultural centre for tea with the Northern Territory Chief Minister Adam Giles.
3PM: KATE A HIT WITH LOCAL KIDS
As they arrived at the National indigenous Training Academy academy, children from the adjoining Yulara State School chanted: “Hi, Kate!”
After receiving her hospitality certificate from Catherine, Jasmine Jingles, 19, of Mornington Island, Queensland, said she was thrilled.
“It’s amazing, deadly as,” she enthused.
Francis Oba, 23, of the Torres Strait, was wished good luck for his future by Prince William.
Clutching his certificate, he said: “This is really great ... we’re touched they came so far to be here.”
The Duke was presented with a 2m hunting spear to mark his visit to the academy.
Kate said she was thrilled to receive a handpainted bracelet made of seed, which she immediately donned.
The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge are on their way to Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre.
2.45PM: ROYALS HEAD TO CULTURAL CENTRE
Catherine presented Belinda McPherson with an indigenous Employee Service Award.
“She noticed that I was wearing my painter’s gear and it was mentioned that I’d just come from a job which I actually had just come from the job,” Bindi said.
“I said to her that if she needed her nursery repainted I know where there’s a good painter. She laughed.
“She asked whereabouts I was painting around here and I told her it was just over the sand dune.”
Bindi said the royal visit was significant for her community.
“It’s pretty big for this little time. I mean they’re royals mate,” she said.
“I’ve never met royals before so it was a fairly big experience.”
2.30PM: ULURU BASE WALK A HIGHLIGHT
The couple will face 33-degree temperatures as they undertake a number of engagements — including a walk at the base of Uluru.
Catherine is wearing a sleeveless mauve shift dress by Roksanda Ilincic, the designer who created the yellow dress she wore for her Sydney arrival.
The royal pair’s outfits reflected the colours of the Australian desert, with William in chinos and a short-sleeved shirt.
The couple left Canberra about 11am and touched down at Yulara airport at 1.30pm (AEST).
It’s William’s second visit to Uluru. His parents Prince Charles and Princess Diana took him there on their visit in 1983.
The royals are expected to spend the night in a luxury tent resort, with stunning views of the rock.
Prince George is not with the couple, who will spend their only night away from the nine-month-old on Tuesday.
2PM: NT WELCOMES WILLIAM AND KATE
The couple were greeted at the airport by the Administrator of the Northern Territory, Sally Thomas, her husband Duncan McNeill, NT Chief Minister Adam Giles and his wife Tamara, and traditional owners Daisy Walkabout and Vincent Nipper.
William lingered as he spoke to Ms Walkabout, who greeted his parents Prince Charles and Diana on their trip to Uluru in 1983.
“We’re happy to meet them, like we were happy to meet (Charles and Diana) in the past,” Ms Walkabout said.
“They’ve travelled a lot and now they will come to see this country, and it will be good to know they have seen Uluru, which is so hugely significant not just for a small group of people but a whole range of people that are related and connected to this place.”
Avril Shear and Lindsay Gordon, Sydneysiders originally from South Africa, extended their outback holiday at Uluru so they could see the Duke and Duchess as their motorcade left the airport.
“I don’t know if he answered me specifically, but I said ‘welcome to Uluru’ and he said thanks,” Ms Shear said.
“I think it was the best glimpse of them we could have gotten.”
She said the couple were very natural.
“I think the difference with them is that you know they’re so in love; it brings people a new hope, less of a stiff upper lip,” she said.
Crowds and media gather as William and Kate land in NT for visit to Uluru #RoyalTourAus http://t.co/2KZ3hCawlt pic.twitter.com/ifGkowgQTu
— The Australian (@australian) April 22, 20141.20PM: FLIES PROVE TO BE A CHALLENGE
Reporters and photographers are setting up at the training centre ahead of the arrival of William and Catherine.
There is no shade at open fixed position where about 60 journalists and photographers have been waiting for an hour. It’s now 30 degrees.
There will be some pretty interesting pieces to camera tonight if the flies have their way.
However, Damien Smith from Seven said he would not be affected.
“Flies aren’t feral. The flies are my friends,” he said.
“I give them a wave and they wave back.”
A group of British reporters made good use of their spare time after finding a soccer ball.
12.15PM: A DAY AT THE ROCK
When Kate and William land they will be greeted by the administrator of the Northern Territory Sally Thomas, the Chief Minister of the Northern Territory Adam Giles and their partners before being whisked away to the National indigenous Training Academy where they will view the facilities and present certificates to graduating students.
They will then head to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre where they will witness a Welcome To Country ceremony, inspect an art display and meet artists.
They will then head upstairs to the café for afternoon tea with the Chief Minister, local Ministers and student representatives from local schools.
Later this afternoon Anangu tour guide Sammy Wilson will escort the couple on a short sunset stroll at the base of Uluru, view rock art and visit a sacred waterhole.
Their Royal Highnesses will learn the story of the battle between Kuniya (the woma python woman) and Liru (the poisonous snake man) who are important creation ancestors for Uluru’s traditional owners.
They will see the many striking features left on the landscape by these ancestors during the creation period.
Tonight the Royals will go glamping tonight at Longitude 131, the luxury accommodation facing the north face of Uluru.
TONIGHT: Where the Royals will spend their night
12:00PM: ROYALS AND THE ROCK
A huge Australian and international media pack will record the Royal visit.
It is William’s second visit to Uluru. His parents Prince Charles and Diana took him there on their visit 1983.
There have only been two other royal visits to Uluru: by Sweden’s King Carl XVI Gustaf of Sweden and Queen Silvia in 2005, and by Crown Prince Willem-Alexander and Crown Princess Maxima of the Netherlands in 2006.
11:10AM: TEMPERATURE IS RISING
It’s already 25C at Uluru and rising.
Temperatures are expected to reach 33C by the time Their Royal Highnesses The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge touch down at Yulara Airport at 1.05pm.
Those visiting Uluru for a glimpse of the royal couple are urged to carry plenty of water and wear sun protection.
Good morning #Uluru #royalvisit @newscomauHQ pic.twitter.com/oAg7NkF2VE
— Kristin Shorten (@itsKShort) April 22, 201411AM: TODAY’S ITINERARY
Kate and William will arrive in the Northern Territory about lunchtime where they will visit the National indigenous Training Academy and the Cultural Centre at Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, attend an afternoon tea and take a sunset stroll around Uluru.
Tonight the Royal couple will stay in an upmarket luxury tent at Longitude 131.
Traditional owner Sammy Wilson prepares to guide Royals on their walk to the base of Uluru http://t.co/P1wk881O8h pic.twitter.com/jGCVxRiZu9
— SBS News (@SBSNews) April 21, 2014Kate will also be given a gift of a necklace and earrings set made by the granddaughter of master local craftsman Billy Cooley, along with a more contemporary piece made by Anangu artist Kathy Buzzacott.
William will be presented with a handmade wooden shield, traditionally used in battle to ward off the spears of enemies and carved by Mr Cooley.
The royals will spend the night in a luxury tent resort with stunning views of the rock.
9AM: A SERIOUSLY CRAPPY GIFT
IT’S not often that a gift of poo is thought to be fit for a royal, yet while at Uluru the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge will receive just that.
Barbara Tjikatu, a traditional owner and senior elder, and four generations of women in her family, including her two-year-old great-granddaughter Lolita, painted a series of dot paintings especially for the royal couple.
They tell a story about the Kuniya python woman and the Liru poisonous snake man collecting water and bush tucker — and they are all painted on paper made from the poo of the near-extinct rufous-hare-wallaby, or mala.
EARLIER: Royals enjoy a day off in Canberra
It’s a 30-centimetre animal that looks like a cross between a kangaroo and a rabbit. Its largest captive population of 200 is bred at Uluru and kept safe from predators.
“You have to think creatively out here, because we’re in the bush,” said Sharon Davies, an employee at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park speaking on behalf of the painters and maker of their unorthodox paper canvases.
“I put glitter in it to make it more royal.”
Rangers provided the poo to make the paper.
“The rangers collect the poo from the mala enclosure when they clean them out,” she said.
“Once I get the poo I have to boil it and wash it and make sure it’s all sterilised because I put it in the paper.
“If were in the car and we see some goona (poo) we collect the goona so we can put it in the paper.
“It’s all crazy. It’s all a bit of fun.”
Bessie Nipper, Barbara’s daughter, said she hoped some of the paintings would be hung in baby George’s nursery.
ROYALS RETURN FOR FIRST VISIT SINCE 1983
Prince Charles and Princess Diana didn’t receive the same gifts of art in 1983, as the women have only recently started working with mala poo after trying out camel dung.
But Barbara’s son, Vincent Nipper, said he was pleased the Duke and Duchess were making a visit to Uluru in their footsteps.
“It’s very important for those two special people to come to a place that is very strong in spirit and that they come here and feel that for themselves,” he said.
“The spirit is alive here and they will be able to take some of that home with them.”
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