Three ways to discover Dubai

FROM opulent palaces to fragrant souks and Arabian architecture, we show you how to explore the old and new city state.

dubai escape jan 13

WITH its passion for record-setting attractions, it is the least restrained member of the UAE. But there's more to this crossroads city than its flashy facade. Here are three ways to discover Dubai.

Budget Labyrinthine lanes and traditional wind towers mark the Bastakia quarter as a vision of old Dubai. Nearby on Al Fahidi St, the Dubai Museum tells the city's history in a fort dating back to 1787 (admission $1). A superb find if you don't require much privacy, Villa 47 offers two B&B rooms in a bougainvillea-draped private home on a quiet street. It's close to the airport, but without the plane noise (from $80; villa47.com). Everyone from cabbies to 5-star chefs flock to 24-hour Pakistani eatery Ravi, where you can dine like a prince but pay like a pauper. Loosen that belt for curries, grilled meats, dahl and naan (mains from $5; Al-Satwa Rd, Satwa). The souks in Deira and Bur Dubai sell everything from textiles to Arabian perfumes. If you bargain well, expect to get 20 to 50 per cent off the initial price offer. Mid-range Explore the fanciful Arabian-style architecture and souvenir souk at Madinat Jumeirah, while not straying far from airconditioning. Here, you can join a 25-minute ride along the waterways of this city-in-a-city (rides $15; jumeirah.com). XVA occupies a century-old courtyard villa, complete with cooling towers, in the heart of the historic Bastakia Quarter (from $150; xvahotel.com). Locals love the opulent Bedouin tent-like atmosphere of Awtar, a formal Lebanese restaurant at the Grand Hyatt, complete with its own belly dancer and a live band, which kicks off later in the evening (mains from $15; dubai.grand.hyatt.com). Deira's gold souk is perhaps the world's best place to buy gold jewellery, with competitive prices that change twice daily, a huge selection on offer and strict quality laws. Luxury Take a half-day, full-day or, better yet, overnight desert safari to experience camel rides and off-road driving amid the sand dunes. Check at your hotel or contact Arabian Adventures (desert trips $50-$225; arabian-adventures.com). Even the smallest suites at the Burj Al Arab are spread across two floors. Non-guests must book at one of the hotel's restaurants to have a look inside (rooms from $1500; jumeirah.com). Inside the oddly named The Palace - The Old Town hotel, Thiptara impresses with elegant Thai-style dishes in a romantic setting on a lakeside pagoda looking out at the Burj Khalifa (mains from $25; theaddress.com). Not every shop in the Dubai Mall is high fashion, but most of the big names are found here. Rest your bags for a coffee at Dome or macaroons at Laduree, and don't miss the aquarium and ice rink (thedubaimall.com) Getting there Emirates flies direct from Sydney to Dubai. See emirates.com Getting around Taxis are comfortable and good value, although they can get stuck in rush-hour traffic (dtc.dubai.ae). Dubai Metro trains serve the airport and Dubai Mall (dubaimetro.eu). - Further reading - Pick up Lonely Planet's Dubai city guide or Dubai Encounter. Also visit definitelydubai.com * Extend your stay - Oman Just a few hours' drive from Dubai, you can find a tranquil place with no shopping malls or skyscrapers. The timeless shores of the Musandam Peninsula feel detached even from the rest of Oman. - Staying in Musandam In peak season (October to April), you need to book accommodation as Khasab is a popular weekend destination for UAE visitors. The Golden Tulip, perched on a headland just outside Khasab and with a terrace overlooking the sea, is the top place to stay in Musandam (from $150; goldentulipkhasab.com). The long-established Khasab Hotel, meanwhile, offers bright rooms with excellent views of the mountains (from $100; khasabhotel.net). If you don't have meals arranged through a tour operator, there are several restaurants around Khasab's souks selling a similar menu of roast chicken, kebabs and fresh juices (about $5 a dish). Alternatively, pop into the Golden Tulip for a sumptuous breakfast, lunch or dinner buffet. -- Getting there The Musandam Peninsula is about three hours' drive from Dubai. Many tour companies in Musandam can pick you up in Dubai. You can also make the trip by rental car  - check that the contract allows you to take the car out of the UAE. -- Getting around There is no public transport, so cars and drivers are best arranged through your hotel or a local tour company. Day excursions cost from about $50 to $100. Musandam Sea Adventure Tourism offers a variety of tours around Khasab with knowledgeable guides, including meals and accommodation (msaoman.com). For more local tours, see khasabtours.com - Further reading Lonely Planet's Oman, UAE & Arabian Peninsula guide covers the Musandam Peninsula and surrounding region. Find out more at omantourism.gov.om