The biggest and best attractions on show in Dubai

SIZE matters when it comes to majestic Dubai and there are no plans to scale down the jewel of the Persian Gulf, writes Angela Saurine.

Bigger than any mirage in the desert

STEPPING into the lift taking us to the top of the world's tallest building feels a bit like getting on a roller-coaster ride at a theme park.

There is a sense of anticipation as we press the button for level 124, music starts to play and lights begin flashing around us. My ears pop as we soar higher up the Burj Khalifa. "It's probably the most dramatic elevator that I've ever been in,'' one of my companions remarks. Wrapped in glass, steel and aluminium, the 828m high Burj was inspired by the desert flower, Hymenocallis, with three towers arranged around a central core. When we arrive at the top we step out on to the observation deck and admire the view over the sprawling city to the hazy desert beyond. It looks flat, dry and busy, with Matchbox cars buzzing along the roads below. From this height we can see the sheer size of the world's largest shopping mall directly below, with the shadow of the Burj forming a distinct mark across its rooftop. The height can be slightly unsettling, and I find myself having to hold a pole a couple of times for support. Dubai is well-known for its tall, modern buildings, many with distinct architecture, but they all seem to pale in comparison to the Burj. Even the JW Marriott Marquis Hotel where I am staying - billed as the tallest hotel in the world - looks respectively small. Its claim is slightly contentious - the Ritz Carlton in Hong Kong is actually higher but it isn't counted because it also has offices in the building. But the view towards the Arabian Gulf and the famous sail-shaped Burj Al Arab hotel, built on an artificial island on Jumeirah Beach, is still spectacular. While its height may be its claim to fame, I find its extensive breakfast buffet the most impressive aspect of the hotel. As is fitting for a city which is home to people from 180 nationalities, cuisines from all over the world are on offer; there's bacon and eggs for Westerners, miso soup for Japanese guests and dumplings for Chinese. The day beds by the pool on the mezzanine level also get a big thumbs up. Most of Dubai's 1.8 million residents come from somewhere else, largely attracted by the ability to earn wages tax-free on a three-year guest-worker visa. About a third of the population is Indian, with the rest mostly from the Middle East, Asia, Africa and Europe. The city boomed when oil was discovered in the 1960s, but these days tourism and trade are its biggest industries. Keen to see more of Dubai than the modern city, we head to the oldest settlement in Dubai, Al Bastakiya. The area was named after the Bastak region of Iran, where many of its first inhabitants came from to escape high taxes when Dubai was declared tax-free in the 1860s. The city became even more attractive when the sheik offered land for free. Bedouins fled the desert to build houses, which they then rented out. They now live in modern villas and palaces and have swapped their camels for Ferraris and Porsches. The first solid houses - previously made of date palms - were built in Bastakiya using coral and shells mixed with limestone, sand and salt water, with wind towers to keep them cool and large courtyards. While many old houses were demolished, those that remain have been converted into art galleries, museums, cafes, restaurants and hotels. Bastakiya lies along Dubai Creek - more like a river - which flows from the Persian Gulf. The people here still use traditional wooden boats called dhows to transport goods to places such as Iran, Iraq, Pakistan, India and Africa. We jump on one and head to the other side of the creek, where we wander through the bustling spice souk with its colourful displays of frankincense, myrrh, turmeric, cumin, saffron and paprika. Our guide Anwar hands us dates to try and points out alum, which can be used after shaving and as a deodorant, and dry lime used for cooking. "Nice to meet you. Have a nice day. Bye bye,'' a shopkeeper says with a big smile as we walk out of his store, proud of what appears to be the only English he knows. Another tells us he is selling Viagra as we pass. "Anytime, boom boom!'' the shopkeeper says. As well as a dazzling array of tiaras, necklaces, bracelets and bangles, the nearby gold souk showcases the largest ring in the world, weighing 63kg. At the nearby seafood market locals jostle to buy a range of fish, prawns, crabs and other crustaceans. Most of the stallholders seem to be from Pakistan, and excitedly engage in conversation about the Australian cricket team when I tell them where I'm from. It rarely rains in Dubai, you wouldn't know it by looking at the manicured green lawns and flower beds along the streets. Most of the water spraying from the sprinklers comes from a desalination plant; the rest is imported. On our last night in Dubai we head to Al Maha Desert Resort and Spa, which was built as a tribute to the emirate's traditional life. After a bumpy but fun 4WD ride across the sand dunes where we spot reintroduced Arabian oryx and gazelle, we enjoy a glass of champagne as we watch the sun set before a desert barbecue in a traditional Bedouin-style camp, where kebabs are roasted over an open-spit fire. Belly dancers perform while we feast and some guests take the opportunity to go for a night-time camel ride. After a couple of days exploring Dubai I feel slightly frustrated I didn't have time to do more. Not enough time to try skiing at the indoor ski park. Not enough time to check out the aquarium in the world's largest shopping mall. Not enough time to go pearl diving. The good news is under the new partnership between Qantas and Emirates, Dubai has become a more attractive stopover destination for Australians, with connections to more than 30 cities in Europe, so that I am bound to go back in the not-too-distant future. While there is already so much to do there, Dubai is also changing so fast there is probably going to be new activities and attractions each time you visit. There are plans afoot for Dubai's version of Disneyland, called Dubailand, which will include a Taj Mahal replica and a replica of the Eiffel Tower taller than the original in Paris. A Sports City is also being built, with the intention of hosting the Olympic Games. It may be a bit manufactured and over the top, but Dubai definitely thinks big. The writer was a guest of Qantas and Emirates. Go2 - DUBAI GETTING THERE Qantas flies to Dubai from Sydney and Melbourne twice a day, with onward connections to London and more than 30 destinations in Europe under its partnership with Middle Eastern airline Emirates. Emirates also flies to Dubai from other Australian cities, but the tickets can be booked through Qantas. Ph 13 13 13. STAYING THERE The JW Marriott Marquis is the world's tallest freestanding hotel. GETTING AROUND Arabian Adventures offers a range of tours. DOING THERE Shopping, cultural tours, golf, horse and camel racing or riding, visit mosques, museums and art galleries, pearl diving, falcon shows, desert safaris, waterparks, indoor ski park, dining at restaurants owned by celebrity chefs, dinner cruises on a traditional dhow, visit the world's tallest building, theme parks and fountain shows. WHEN TO GO Try to avoid visiting from June to August when it can be very hot, with temperatures ranging from the high 40C to mid-50C. Visas: Australians do not need to apply for a visa in advance. When you arrive your passport will be stamped with a 30-day visitor visa. Clothing: While you will see tourists wearing singlet tops and shorts in Dubai, which is more western than the rest of the UAE, it is an Islamic country and polite to dress conservatively. Women should avoid revealing clothing and only wear swimwear at hotel pools, resorts and beaches. Cultural do's and don'ts: Rude and arrogant behaviour and swearing is unacceptable and public displays of affection such as kissing and holding hands are considered disrespectful and can even be subject to arrest. While it is served in hotel restaurants and bars, alcohol should not be drunk in public and inappropriate behaviour under the influence of alcohol can also lead to arrest. Do not take photos of Arabic women as it is considered intrusive and rude. More: dubaitourism.ae