Surfing in paradise

LUXURIOUS cabins and sublime surf – Jo Kennett enjoys a surf safari of the Maldives from the comfort of her cruiser.

THE first thing that hits me is the colour of the water. It looks surreal, as if someone has filled the ocean with dazzling aquamarine jewels.

The archipelago of the Maldives is southwest of India in the Indian Ocean and comprises almost 2000 islands and atolls. But my destination is a 30m motorboat called Haveyli, where I'll join a so-called surfari around North Male Atoll.

It is dark when we board Haveyli, which is built along the lines of a traditional Maldivian vessel but with decorative latticework almost in the style of a Bavarian chalet. We are welcomed by the crew and shown to our cabins, which are spacious, but the surprise is the bathroom, which on most boats is a closet-sized space shared among all on board.

Read the in-depth feature in the Australian.

Early next morning the motor wakes us and we soon anchor between Jailbreaks, a good right break, and Honkys, a left-hand wave. Breakfast is at 6.30am, and with 2m sets and a light offshore breeze, it's not long before everyone hits the water.

The weather is warm and we spend most of the day in the ocean. Between surfs there is a big lunch to refuel for the afternoon session and time to laze on the shaded decks.

Late in the afternoon we head for our first anchorage, behind Himmafushi Island.

We pass One Palm Island, a tiny strip of sand set with a table and chairs for two. In the evening we lounge on the top deck, watching the sunset, drinks in hand. Facing us over the lagoon is a cluster of overwater resort bungalows. It seems almost too perfect.

Balmy Maldivian air

Early the next morning our surf guide radios a friend and learns that there are seven charter boats between a spot called Chickens and Cokes and the surf is pumping. He makes the call to stay between Jailsbreaks and Honkys and for most of the day the breaks are uncrowded and the surf is top quality, so everyone is happy.

Some of the resorts, such as Hudhuranfushi, send out regular dhoni-loads of surfers, so we try to time our surfs around theirs or signal the dinghy and move across to another break when the boats arrive. Even if we end up with a small crowd, there's just something in the balmy Maldivian air that chills out the most hardcore surfers, so it's never a problem.

Haveyli is described by World Surfaris charters as the best budget boat in the Maldives, a claim that is hard to dispute. The boat, crew, food and service are all first rate.

The days pass slowly, filled with surfing, swimming, snorkelling, fishing, exploring and lazing on deck, joking with the crew. We select our spots for sundowners each evening, as dusk closes in on another sublime vista of palms, white sand and what surely must be the bluest waters on earth.

We take photographs of each other and the dhoni but perhaps these will prove superfluous: the natural beauty of the Maldives is impossible to erase from memory.

Read the in-depth feature in the Australian.