Polynesian perfection in Tahiti

SCULPTED by sky-piercing, moss-green peaks and lined with vivid turquoise lagoons, sultry French Polynesia is a place to take it slow and experience a little warm, laid-back island chic.

Tahiti Polynesia Escape

SCULPTED by sky-piercing, moss-green peaks and lined with vivid turquoise lagoons, sultry French Polynesia is a place to take it slow and experience a little warm, laid-back island chic.

- The dream

Tahiti: just the word conjures up centuries' worth of images: hibiscus flowers; svelte, bronzed dancers in grass skirts; a humid breeze over turquoise sea.

The islands of French Polynesia became legends the minute the first European explorers reached their home shores with tales of a heaven on Earth. While the lingering hype is outdated, French Polynesia is still about as dreamy as reality gets.

Today, however, there are freeways, Christianity has instilled more conservative values and people work nine-to-five jobs. French Polynesia has not escaped the modern world but embraced it. True, it's not the perfect, untainted paradise of explorer lore, but at least there's a pretty fast internet connection. 

- Lagoon spectacular

While there are plenty of slim stretches of white, pink and black-sand beaches in French Polynesia, they are just pretty springboards into the real draw: the lagoons. Most high islands are surrounded by fringing reefs that create a protected swimming pool of the most intense hue of aqua you could ever imagine.

Fish, dolphins, rays, sharks, turtles and more inhabit these clear-water coral gardens that are as excellent for snorkelling as they are for diving and swimming.

- To luxe or not to luxe

Over-the-top indulgence has become French Polynesia's or more specifically Bora Bora's signature, and often overshadows what the rest of the country has to offer. Resorts on the "Pearl of the Pacific" are a honeymooner's dream, with private overwater bungalows, every luxury trapping and spectacular views of the island's iconic, square-topped peak.

But if this isn't your cup of coconut water, or simply not in your budget, don't let that dissuade you. Small, family-run hotels and bed and breakfasts offer a closer-to-the-culture experience at prices that require a financial output similar to what you'd need for a mid-range trip to Europe. 

                                                                * Top experiences*

- Polynesian culture

Gentle, unpretentiously sophisticated yet fiery, the Polynesian culture is as seductive as it is soothing. Sit back with a cold Hinano under a warm dome of stars to enjoy ukulele riffs or perhaps just the sound of the surf.

During the annual Heiva festival the country goes full tilt: the best dancers have warp-speed wiggling hips; outrigger-canoe racing ignites the lagoons; and traditional sports such as coconut husking go pro.

- Diving and snorkelling

French Polynesia's warm, tropical waters hold some of the greatest varieties of sea life in the South Pacific. Dream of encountering the beasts?

You can mingle with grey reef sharks, manta rays, hammerhead sharks and bottlenose dolphins. Prefer smaller, technicolour critters? You'll spot stingrays, snappers, jacks and more. The lagoons also cater to avid snorkellers, with clear waters and a smattering of healthy coral gardens. 

- Atoll lagoons

Atolls are basically lagoons without the island. What little land mass there is peeks up only several metres above the surface and encircles lagoons so blue and thriving that high-island lagoons look meek in comparison.

Best explored by boat, these watery landscapes hold empty white and pink-sand beaches, seabird nesting grounds and some of the best spots in the world to dive in with a mask and snorkel.

Rangiroa takes the crown as the world's third-largest atoll, while Fakarava's lagoon is a protected UNESCO biosphere reserve. 

- Bora Bora

As the plane descends, a magical scene comes into view: a perfect Morse-code ring of motu (small islets), mop-topped with palms, separating the indigo of the ocean from the crisp palette of lagoon blues.

Bora Bora is a hot favourite for honeymooners but you didn't come all this way merely to crack open a bottle of champagne. Hiking, diving, snorkelling and other adventure options are available. 

- Tahiti's waterfall valleys

Take an island with high mountains and 90-degree cliffs, douse it with tropical rainfall and give it a few million years to erode into magnificent forms and what do you get? Waterfalls. Lots of them.

You could walk up any river in Tahiti and find myriad cascades, but you're best sticking with known trails or going with a guide. Try the trodden (though near-empty) paths to Papenoo, Fautaua or the Hitiaa lava tubes. 

-- This is an edited extract from Lonely Planet Tahiti & French Polynesia (9th Edition) by Celeste Brash, et al. Lonely Planet 2012. Published this month, RRP: $41.99, lonelyplanet.com

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- What to bring

Most things are imported in French Polynesia and thus can be quite expensive; other items may not be available at all.

Don't bring heavy clothes such as jeans, although you'll want long pants and a light sweater for evenings plus a dressier outfit if going to up-market restaurants or clubbing.

Consider bringing the following from home: sunscreen, insect repellent, books in English, snorkelling gear, clothing (mostly lightweight), sunglasses/eye glasses, flip-flops, snacks such as energy or muesli bars, over-the-counter medications such as cold and flu medicine, batteries and duty-free alcohol.

- What to buy

Pareu (sarong), plastic reef-walking sandals and mosquito coils.

- Getting there

Faa'a International Airport (tahiti-aeroport.pf), on Pape'ete's outskirts, is the only international airport in French Polynesia. There is no departure tax within French Polynesia.

All flights from Australia to Pape'ete are via Auckland. In Auckland, Qantas Airways flights connect with Air Tahiti Nui.

- Daily budget

Mid-range: 12,000-40,000 Pacific Francs (CFP) ($A120-$400)

Room at up-market pension or boutique hotel: 20,000 CFP

Main dish at a local snack bar: 1000 CFP

All-day lagoon tour with lunch: 7500 CFP 

More: See tahiti-tourisme.com

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