Lonely Planet's guide to Jordan

AT THE crossroads of history for more than 2000 years, the kingdom of Jordan is a treasure-trove of world-class heritage sites and spectacular desert scenery.

Jordan Treasury

AT THE crossroads of history for more than 2000 years, the kingdom of Jordan is a treasure-trove of world-class heritage sites and spectacular desert scenery.

-- Ancient allure Jordan has welcomed high volumes of visitors since camel caravans plied the legendary King's Highway, transporting frankincense in exchange for spices. Nabataean tradesmen, Roman legionnaires, Muslim armies and zealous Crusaders have all passed through the land we now call Jordan, leaving spectacular monuments behind. In turn, these monuments have provoked a modern wave of visitors who, since the early 19th century, have been fascinated to discover this potent past or who have gone in search of the origins of their faith. Jordan, then, is no stranger to the tourist and there are many ways to enjoy a visit  - on a short package holiday, on a specialist archeological tour, by hiring a Bedouin guide on arrival, or simply by hopping in a hire car and travelling where the fancy takes you. Minimal planning and only a modest budget are required to reach the main sites of interest, although booking a room in major destinations is recommended during the peak season in April.  -- A world wonder Thanks to its small size and large diversity, Jordan repays even the shortest visit with sights and activities that are truly world-class. Petra, the ancient Nabataean city locked in the heart of Jordan's sandstone escarpments, is the jewel in the crown of the country's many antiquities. It takes at least two days to make the most of a visit, particularly as the sites are far-flung and require a fair amount of walking.  -- A taste of the Middle East Petra is a highly persuasive reason to visit Jordan, but it is far from the only one. Apart from the many other spectacular historical and biblical sites, the country offers striking desert landscapes, a salty sea at the lowest point on Earth, magnificent springtime flowers scattered across the interior and rural towns that keep continuity with the traditions of the past. It takes tolerance to host endless volumes of incomers and Jordan has displayed that virtue in spades, absorbing in recent times hundreds of thousands of refugees from Palestine and Iraq, as well as accommodating ever-growing numbers of tourists who are often insensitive to conservative Jordanian values. While the country has challenges, particularly in terms of modernisation and growing urbanisation, it remains one of the best countries in which to gain an impression of the Middle East without the often attendant difficulties.  Five top experiences -- Petra - It's dawn. The path winds down towards the Siq, the dramatic rift in the land that leads towards the hidden city of Petra. The only sounds are the ringing of hoofs on cobblestones as horse carts pass into the narrow gorge. The corridor of stone narrows and the cliffs cast long shadows across the sacred way. At length, the path slithers into sunlight and there, bathed in morning glory, stands the Treasury, a beacon of hope to the ancients and a promise of wonderful things for the modern visitor. If this sublime experience isn't sufficient inducement to visit Petra, then the magnificent spectacle of the "pink city" tombs at sunset surely will be. Ultimately, however, these dramatic gestures of immortality may prove less memorable than a quiet amble through forgotten tombs, glimpses of outrageously coloured sandstone or a satisfying hike to the top of a High Place. - Ruins of Empire For a country so small in size, Jordan punches well above its weight in world-class monuments, boasting some of the finest Roman ruins outside Rome. Most countries would be pleased to have attractions like the Citadel or the Roman Theatre in Amman, but these pale into insignificance compared with the superbly preserved ruins at Jerash. Visit during a chariot race when commentary from a red-plumed centurion will help bring this ancient outpost of Rome alive. - Lawrence's Desert It wasn't just the sublime vista of Wadi Rum, with its burnished sandstone cliffs and vivid-coloured dunes that impressed Lawrence of Arabia as he paced on camel back through the land of the Bedouin. He was also impressed by the stoicism of the people, who endured hardships associated with a life in the desert. Today, it's possible to get a glimpse of that traditional way of life, albeit with a few more creature comforts, by staying in one of the Bedouin camps scattered across this desert wilderness. This is definitely the best way to experience the desert. Unfurl your mat under the stars and let singing youths, together with the snorts of grumbling camels and the whistle of mint tea over the fire, lull you to sleep. - The Dead Sea experience Floating in the Dead Sea is one of the world's great natural experiences. Floating is the right word for it: with an eye-stingingly high salt content, it is virtually impossible to swim in the viscous waters of a sea that is 415m below "sea level". The experience is usually accompanied by a mud bath, a bake in the sun and a health-giving spa treatment at one of the modern pleasure palaces lined up along the Dead Sea's shores. - Crusader castles As a frontier in the battle for the soul between Muslim and Christian forces, the land east of the Mediterranean is dotted with castles. In Jordan, there are well-preserved examples at Ajloun and Shobak, but Karak Castle, commanding the semi-arid hills midway along the King's Highway, is the best. You don't need to be military-minded to be impressed by the ramparts of this enormous construction, but imagination helps to hear the dying howls of those pitched from the parapet by the sadistic Renauld de Chatillon.  --- Need to know - Air transport Midway through major refurbishment, Queen Alia International Airport, about 35km south of Amman, is the country's main gateway. The national airline, Royal Jordanian (rj.com), is well established, with a good safety record. Other airlines flying to Jordan include: Air France (airfrance.com), British Airways (ba.com), Emirates (emirates.com), and Turkish Airlines (turkishairlines.com). Your daily budget - Midrange Jordanian Dinar (JD) 40-120 ($A55-$A165) Double room in midrange hotel: JD40-90 - Eating in local restaurants: JD5-10 - Car hire: JD25 - Entry costs/unguided activities: JD10  - More: See visitjordan.com  This is an edited extract from Lonely Planet Jordan (8th Edition) by Jenny Walker. Lonely Planet 2012. Published this month, RRP: $37.99, lonelyplanet.com ------ "Like" Escape.com.au on Facebook Follow @Escape_team on Twitter