Celebrity chic on a budget

VISITING a playground of the rich and famous does not have to be a budget-buster, writes Ellen Connolly.

Capri ... playground of the rich and famous since Roman times

A HELICOPTER buzzed overhead, delivering Giorgio Armani to his clifftop residence.

Liz Hurley had been sighted with fiance Arun Nayer shopping for wedding dresses. And there was talk of Leonardo DiCaprio sipping coffee in a local cafe.

Such goings on are a near daily occurrence on the island of Capri, playground of the rich and famous since Roman times.

This place exudes Mediterranean chic – because it is. But, for the ordinary tourist like me, a visit here can quickly burn a hole in the holiday budget.

Yet thanks to a chance encounter with a local we learned how to enjoy this "island of dreams" on the cheap.

First, we based ourselves in Sorrento, at a delightful two-star hotel with a balcony and private beach access.

We took the early and cheaper ferry ($15) to Capri. It's 20 minutes slower than the hydrofoil but gives the opportunity to get some photographs of the dramatic formations.

We were dropped at the Marina Grande and, from there, it's a funicular ride to Capri's most colourful square, Piazza Umberto, a fabulous people-watching place.

Rather than waste an $8 coffee here we headed to the understated Da Gemma, a Capri landmark since 1872, favoured by author Graham Greene and Hollywood actors from the golden era.

Sipping on a drink with the stars (well, photos of them line the walls) we took in the sweeping views of the Gulf of Naples.

Then we hit the pavement. For such a small island, 6km long, there is plenty of ground to cover.

No cars are allowed, only porter buggies, taxis and buses.

Wandering through t h e labyrinth of cobblestoned streets is fascinating in itself. We pass designer shops selling bikinis for $660 and watch the beautiful people sunning themselves on deckchairs at luxury hotels.

Narrow and crowded paths lead to breathtaking panoramas.

The vegetation is lush and bright. There are flowers everywhere. Purple petunias, pink geranium and red hibiscus. The scent of lemon trees fills the air.

When it comes to lunching we are well prepared. Capri is full of overpriced, poor quality, snack bars, but thanks to some planning we enjoy a picnic in the Gardens of Augustus, which have milliondollar views.

The price: $2.80 for a delicious salami, mozzarella and basil panini. We picked up a bottle of vino rosso at the alimentari (grocer) on the island for $6.60 and some juicy peaches.

Fortunately, we'd remembered to bring a bottle opener.

Toilet stops can prove expensive, but we managed to sneak into restaurants. My friend even waltzed into a five-star hotel.

"It's all about confidence," she told me as the butler opened the door to let her out.

An afternoon swim brings us to Marina Piccolo where we are told it is $16 a person for access to the private beach.

But we eventually find a public area, next to the bus station and down the stairs. For free.

Not to be missed, and the highlight for me, is the Blue Grotto, the island's greatest drawcard since 1826.

Most tourists queue for a boat trip for $20, which enters the cave and is in and out within 10 minutes. We find a better and costfree way to enjoy this natural phenomenon.

After the last boat is allowed in at 5pm we took a bus from Anacapri to the grotto entrance.

Then we jumped in the water, using a chain to help us swim in.

We were able to linger in the bright blue translucent water without the hordes of tourists.

We caught the last ferry at 6.15pm, the 25-minute trip costing $15.

Even though at times I felt as though I was drowning in a sea of daytrippers, Capri is well worth a return visit. But next time we'll be staying – for one, budget-busting night at least – to experience la dolce vita after dark.

Sunday Mail (SA)