A beginner's guide to travelling Cuba

IF YOU'RE thinking of travelling to Cuba, Julie Miller has some tips to ensure you get the most out of the island nation.

cuba

IT COULD be a freeze-frame from a Fellini movie: kids playing ball games in the street; women in curlers hanging washing on balconies or joining a queue to pick up the latest department store bargains; men under the bonnets of cars, tinkering to their heart's content.

Only this is Havana, 2012: the cars are classic American behemoths from the '50s; the shop shelves are all but empty; and the soundtrack is classic son, salsa and rumba, an exuberant beat permeating every facet of daily life.There is nowhere else on this planet quite like Cuba. With its rusty wheels clamped by revolution more than 50 years ago, it is economically poor but culturally rich, visibly decaying but proud. It's also a nation on the cusp of change, the inevitabilities of globalisation evident in the restlessness of its youth, who dream of European discos or a new life in Miami. It's these paradoxes that make Cuba such an intriguing destination, luring romantics, history buffs and those looking for a unique travel experience. But take note - Cuba is not for the faint-hearted, with contradictions, misinformation and a primitive infrastructure making independent travel a real challenge. Little wonder most visitors choose to visit on a guided tour - it's far easier to let someone else deal with inevitable problems. But for those who insist on going it alone, here are some basic survival tips: Getting there The process of booking flights to Cuba is a testing ground for potential visitors. Because of travel restrictions via the US, most Australians enter Cuba via Mexico or Canada, which can be pricey if sourced through a travel agent. The simplest (and cheapest) option is to arrange return flights to Mexico via a website such as Flight Centre, then book a separate return flight to Havana from either Cancun or Mexico City. Visas Ignore the advice offered by the Cuban Embassy in Canberra - Australians do NOT require a special visa and CAN travel to Cuba with a standard travel card issued where you board your Cubana flight to Havana. You cannot fly without this card - it is a simple 250 Mexican peso purchase (about $18) over the counter. The alternative is to fork out $60 and send your passport to Canberra for processing, but it is an unnecessary, money-grabbing exercise. The travel card negates the need for any other arrival documentation - Australian travellers simply go to the customs counter in Havana with passport and travel card in hand. Currency Cuba is a cash economy, with two currencies circulating concurrently, the Cuban Peso and Cuban Convertibles (CUC). Tourists are issued with Convertibles, which sell for about $1, and in theory cannot be in possession of the local currency. Not that you'll need it - accommodation, restaurants, bars and taxis all charge in CUCs, and even everyday items listed in pesos will be happily sold at an inflated price in the highly coveted CUCs. While there are ATMs available, they do not accept Mastercard or Australian bank cards - best to bring as much cash as you'll need for the duration of your stay, at least $100 a day. Having travelled in Mexico before my visit, I exchanged Mexican pesos at Havana airport for a rather miserable rate. Note that Australian dollars cannot be exchanged throughout Cuba, and US dollars are not advisable. You'll require small bills and change for tipping. Accommodation There are two main types of accommodation in Cuba: government-run hotels or family homestays (casa particulares). The latter is a great option for independent travellers, those on a budget or if you are venturing beyond Havana, as well as being a great way to meet locals and enjoy a slice of real Cuban life. Casa particulares can be recognised by a blue-and-white insignia with the words Arrendador Divisa above the door. There are more than 3000 in Havana alone. Bus travellers will be swamped by aggressive touts or casa owners on arrival at their destination. For a more peaceful decision-making process, head for the town's information office for recommendations. First-time visitors may also want to splash out on one of Havana's gorgeous historical hotels, such as the Mercure Hotel Sevilla, dating back to 1908 and brimming with history. My room - 501 - was the setting for Graham Greene's novel Our Man in Havana. There is also a plethora of grand hotels in the old quarter of Havana, such as Hotel Florida or Hotel Raquel. Don't expect 5-star facilities, however. And even in the most expensive hotels, service can be lacklustre at best. Eating With a shortage of fresh ingredients and limited access to imported goods, Cuban food is bland, heavy on meat and carbs, and lacking in imagination. Fortunately, dining is cheap. You'll eat heartily, if not well, for about $10 a meal, though vegetarians or those with special dietary requirements may struggle. The most innovative cuisine is served in private dining rooms, called paladars, or in the kitchens of the casa particulares, which will whip up anything from the Cuban staple of pork, beans and rice, to lobster thermidor for between $7 and $12. Many of Havana's most-acclaimed restaurants are in the suburbs, such as La Cocina de Lilliam in Miramar. A meal here will set you back about $45 for two, including wine, but it's worth the extra expense for a refreshingly delicious meal in a beautiful garden setting. Drinking If any country will drive you to drink, it's Cuba - but at least it won't break the bank - $3 cocktails, anyone? This is the birthplace of the daiquiri and mojito, with rum (or ron, as it is known in Spanish) the base of most mixed drinks. Havana is overflowing with fantastic bars, most of them once frequented by a writer who really knew his alcohol - Hemingway. "My mojito in La Bodeguita; my daiquiri in El Floridita," he said, referring to two famous Havana bars - as good a recommendation as any, with both establishments still serving superior, if relatively expensive, cocktails. And with the drinks, of course, comes some of the best live music on Earth, with local bands performing Buena Vista Social Club classics for tips. Beyond Havana While Havana is the jewel in Cuba's crown, there are many other fascinating destinations if you have the time to explore. The northern coastline has beautiful beaches, although these tend to be dominated by all-inclusive resorts catering to Canadian and British package tourists. Buses service cities such as World Heritage-listed Trinidad or the revolutionary centre of Santa Clara. While this is a cheap and safe form of transport, the booking process is unnecessarily complicated. But, hey, this is Cuba - take a deep breath, go with the flow and enjoy it while it lasts.   GO2 - CUBA Getting there Cubana Airlines flies from Cancun to Havana every day except Tuesday and Thursday. See cubana.cu Staying there For casa particulares, see tripadvisor.com, cubaparticular.com or cubacasas.net Hotel Mercure Sevilla Havana, see accorhotels.com Hotel Raquel Havana, see hotelraquel-cuba.com "Like" Escape.com.au on Facebook Follow @Escape_team on Twitter