Alone with King Tut in Egypt

A SERIOUS lack of tourists in Egypt post Arab-Spring means Stephanie Williams gets to visit the tomb of Tutankhamun alone on a visit to see the country's ancient treasures.

Escape King Tut

"SO IT'S just you, me and Tutankhamun then?" I said to my travel mate as the guide left us alone with the most famous mummy in the world, not entirely sure if I should've been excited or spooked at the prospect of some alone time with his black, shrivelled remains.

We shared his small tomb for 15 minutes, carefully taking in the beautifully restrained hieroglyphics and simplicity of this final resting place. So why was I alone in the Valley of the Kings with Tut? Because there were no other tourists, which, for past visitors to Egypt, is unimaginable.

I believe Egypt should still be on your travel list. I found it safe, extraordinarily interesting and, right now, the Egyptian people are screaming out for tourist dollars to help them get back on track.

The events of January 2011 were still evident in Cairo from graffiti in the streets and burned-out buildings, to taxi drivers giving you the rundown on where the flashpoints were.

There are still sporadic protests, but the opportunity to witness the changing political and social landscape and to see a moment in history still evolving is what travel for me is all about.

After spending a few days touring the pyramids, museums and ruins of Cairo, we travelled to Luxor, home of the pharaonic resting place, the Valley of the Kings, and the Karnak Temple.

Not wanting to lose too much time or spring for another night in a hotel, we took the overnight sleeper train. Buying your ticket ahead of time at Giza railway station, where the sleeper train departs, is advised, so late afternoon we wound our way through the crazy, chaotic Cairo traffic.

After a lengthy passport inspection and much Arabic conversation between the taxi driver and the ticketing clerk, we had our $US60 ($58) tickets.

The platform was unsettlingly quiet. There were no signs we were in the right place, except for one confused Canadian backpacker among the throng of Egyptians.

But just before 8pm, a Japanese tour group filed on to the platform, confirming we were in the right place.

Five minutes after the train left Giza, our porter stuck his head in the doorway with a huge smile on his face. "I'm sorry but we may not get through to Luxor in the morning. There is a protest blocking the track."

I was perplexed at the disconnection between his face and his message, and I said to him: "So if we don't make it, we have to travel all the way back to Cairo?"

"Yes, and there will be no refund. Enjoy your journey!"

Even though my scam detector was set firmly into overdrive, it turned out to be for real. But then the Egyptian Minister for Tourism apparently placed a call during the night and the demonstrators were moved on, delaying us by only a couple of hours.

The cabins were modest two seats and a communal table folding into two bunk beds and sink, with an Egyptian music channel for entertainment.

The food was basic yet nourishing hummus, chicken, rice and an orange for dinner and a croissant, jams, pita bread with the ubiquitous spreadable cheese and strong coffee for breakfast.

Arriving in Luxor, we checked in to the New Pola Hotel on the Nile.

The pace of the city was far less frenetic than Cairo but with touts working overtime, the hassle factor was high. Undeterred, we worked our way through the requests for felucca rides, horses, taxis and my hand in marriage to Karnak Temple.

The temple complex is as grand in its footprint as it is in its architecture, so good walking shoes are essential. Everything here is on a massive scale, a tribute to the Theban gods and pharaohs, and the main structure, the Temple of Amun, is the largest religious building ever constructed.

We hired a guide and got lucky, scoring the Visitors Centre manager a qualified egyptologist. It was another sign of the lack of tourists.

En route to the Valley of the Kings on the West Bank was Deir al-Bahiri, the Temple of Hatshepsut. Hatshepsut is a favourite pharaonic tale when her husband, Tuthmosis II, died in 1479BC, she co-ruled with her stepson Tuthmosis III.

All was well until she crowned herself pharaoh. A well-respected leader, she sometimes dressed as a man complete with false beard.

When her stepson finally took control, he attempted to destroy every reference to her, leaving her soul with nowhere to go in the afterlife.

The Temple of Hatshepsut survived, buried under sand, in the hills of the West Bank until it was rediscovered in 1891.

But the highlight of Luxor is the Valley of the Kings and Tutankhamun's resting place. Archeologist Howard Carter spent six years searching for Tut's tomb before finding it in 1922.

Most of the treasures are in the Cairo Museum, but Tut's mummified body still remains in the Valley. It costs extra to visit his tomb, but it's money well spent.

Go2

- EGYPT

- Things to do

Sleeper train

The overnight sleeper train from Cairo to Luxor costs about $A60.

See wataniasleeping trains.com; book in person at Giza railway station, Cairo.

- Karnak Temple

The temple costs about $A10 for entry for one day. The nightly Luxor Light and Sound show is about $A16.

- Deir al-Bahiri (Temple of Hatshepsut)
Entry is about $A5.

- Valley of the Kings
About $A12 for entry to three tombs of your choice from a selected list. Tutankhamun's tomb is an extra $A16.