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Varosha beach: North Cyprus ghost city to reopen after 47 years

This former A-list resort was abandoned for 47 years. Today, tourists could finally return — but it’s sparked an international backlash.

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This was once one of the most glamorous beach resorts on the Mediterranean, a bustling hot spot for holiday-makers and paradise for the rich and famous.

But one day in 1974, everyone fled and time stood still.

It’s been a ghost town ever since, sealed off by barbed wire, with no one allowed to enter. Its perfect golden sand has been untouched, its luxury hotels with million-dollar views left to rot.

But today, for the first time since 1974, tourists are back in the abandoned resort city of Varosha in Cyprus in a controversial move by its northern breakaway government that has sparked diplomatic uproar in the eastern Mediterranean.

The fence surrounding the tourist area of Varosha in Cyprus’ Turkish-occupied north. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
The fence surrounding the tourist area of Varosha in Cyprus’ Turkish-occupied north. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
A woman holds the flags of Turkey and the self-proclaimed Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus as tourist return to Varosha. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
A woman holds the flags of Turkey and the self-proclaimed Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus as tourist return to Varosha. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP

Ersin Tatar, the leader of Cyprus’ Turkish-occupied north, has said he wanted to resuscitate Varosha and restore it to its former glory under a plan that would open up 1.5km of fenced-off beachfront to the public.

Turkish troops reopened part of Varosha today, allowing hundreds of tourists to pour onto the beach and fill its decaying restaurants and cafes for the first time in decades.

The move sparked protests in Cyprus and infuriated Turkey’s rivals Cyprus and Greece, as it threatens to reignite conflict that was the very reason Varosha became suddenly abandoned in the first place.

A woman prepares to swim at the beach after the reopening. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
A woman prepares to swim at the beach after the reopening. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
Visitors inspect the decaying buildings of the abandoned resort. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
Visitors inspect the decaying buildings of the abandoned resort. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP

ESCAPE FROM PARADISE

During the 1970s Varosha, on Cyprus’ east coast, was one of the most popular holiday spots not just on the island, but in the world.

Glamorous movie stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Sophia Loren and Brigitte Bardot holidayed there, along with thousands of sun-seekers who packed its golden beaches and filled its luxury hotels.

But tension bubbled behind the picture-perfect scenes, with Cyprus at the centre of a bitter territory dispute between Turkey and Greece.

Varosha during its glittering heyday.
Varosha during its glittering heyday.
In the 1970s it was one of the most popular holiday spots on the planet.
In the 1970s it was one of the most popular holiday spots on the planet.

In 1974 Turkish forces invaded Cyprus and clashed with Greek Cypriot troops close to the resort. The conflict forced about 40,000 people to flee to the south in a panic.

With Varosha empty, Turkish forces fenced off the hotels, restaurants, places of worship and beaches — and it’s been that way ever since.

It’s not the only high-profile location in Cyprus that became an eerie ghost town after the Turkish invasion in 1974.

Nicosia International Airport, which had been the island’s only main airport, wound up in the middle of a demilitarised zone during the conflict and was deserted. It’s been untouched ever since, with passenger jets, check-in desks and terminal seating still rotting where they were left behind.

Today, Greek Cypriots live in the south, while Turkish Cypriots remain in a northern enclave occupied by Turkish troops.

An abandoned building in Varosha. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
An abandoned building in Varosha. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
The interior of a mosque that had been left untouched for decades. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
The interior of a mosque that had been left untouched for decades. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP

‘TERRIBLE DAY’

Despite diplomatic efforts — and some progress towards accord — in recent years, Turkey and Greece-backed Cyprus have failed to come to an agreement about the future of Varosha.

Today’s developments, which come days before voters head to an election in Northern Cyprus, have put more strain on their tumultuous relationship.

After Turkish troops opened part of the resort, President Nicos Anastasiades of the Greek-majority south said it was a “flagrant violation of international law and the resolutions of the UN Security Council” and Greece warned it would take up the matter with its EU partners, AFP reported.

Turkish-Cypriot prime minister Ersin Tatar visits Varosha amid the reopening on October 8, local time. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
Turkish-Cypriot prime minister Ersin Tatar visits Varosha amid the reopening on October 8, local time. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP

“This decision is a clear violation of UN Security Council resolutions. Greece will support all relevant efforts of the Republic of Cyprus,” Greek Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis said.

The UN has called for Varosha to be handed back to its former Greek-Cypriot inhabitants or failing that, UN peacekeeping forces.

Critics say the reopening of Varosha — which was announced by Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan on Tuesday — is an attempt by Turkey to influence the outcome of Sunday’s election in Northern Cyprus.

Visitors came flooding back to the abandoned resort city. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
Visitors came flooding back to the abandoned resort city. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
It’s the first time the public returned to Varosha in almost five decades. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP
It’s the first time the public returned to Varosha in almost five decades. Picture: Birol Bebek / AFP

Turkish-Cypriot leader Mustafa Akinci, who is challenging the current leader, Ersin Tatar, in the polls, called the reopening announcement in Ankara a “shame for our democracy” and “interference in our elections”.

For Greek-Cypriots who fled Varosha in the mass exodus in 1974, today’s reopening also burst open some painful wounds.

“It's a terrible day,” said art historian Anna Marangou, who was 22 when she fled Varosha, AP reported.

A Greek Cypriot woman takes part in a protest at the Deryneia crossing point as Varosha is opened. Picture: Iakovos Hatzistavrou / AFP
A Greek Cypriot woman takes part in a protest at the Deryneia crossing point as Varosha is opened. Picture: Iakovos Hatzistavrou / AFP
Greek Cypriots protest at the Deryneia crossing point on October 8. Picture: Iakovos Hatzistavrou / AFP
Greek Cypriots protest at the Deryneia crossing point on October 8. Picture: Iakovos Hatzistavrou / AFP

Greek Cypriot and Varosha native Kyriakos Charalambides told AP she watched the reopening on TV with difficulty.

“Even though I expected this, I shuddered as I watched those familiar places. It’s a sorrow that cannot be consoled … Varosha is lost.”

AFP reports development at the old resort could take years as the property rights of those who fled Varosha would need to considered in a master plan for demolition and construction.

Original URL: https://www.news.com.au/travel/travel-updates/varosha-beach-north-cyprus-ghost-city-to-reopen-after-47-years/news-story/b07025a0286822ea6de303e07f429d38