How this magic mushroom retreat is a booming tourism industry on the rise for Aussie tourists
Sitting an hour outside of Amsterdam in a cabin set in thick woodland, a new kind of “trip” awaits those willing to let go of all control.
I’m an hour or so outside of Amsterdam in a cabin set in thick woodland.
Lying on my back I gaze up at a bright blue sky — a sky with a blue hue that makes me think of Australia. Propped up on a pillow, the gentle sound of birdsong fills my ears, lush green ferns surround me on ether side, and a canopy of tree branches stretch overhead — branches that gently sway with an occasional breeze that cuts through the summer heat.
My eyes are streaming — I’m crying at the sheer beauty of it all.
And then, quite suddenly, the thin branches of the tree I’m intently staring at transform into the shimmering locks of a goddess-like figure; a smiling, benevolent woman who gently shakes her tresses in the breeze.
OK, I know what this must sound like but please bear with me. I’m not crazy, I’m actually one hour into a magic mushroom trip.
Part of the polyphyletic group of fungi that contain psilocybin — a naturally occurring psychedelic compound — so-called “magic” mushrooms, of which there are roughly 180 species, are the best-known naturally occurring psychedelic drug.
And though illegal here in Australia (where use can carry a hefty fine and even a prison term), in Holland magic “truffle” mushrooms have managed to evade the law.
Containing exactly the same psychoactive compounds as magic mushrooms, in liberal Amsterdam, just like weed, you can buy them legally on the high street at around 40 “smart shops” in the city.
“I’ve definitely seen a huge increase over the last few years in truffle mushroom use,” says Becky Wicks, a former Sydneysider who moved to Amsterdam more than three years ago and is penning a book about mushrooms and psychedelics.
“People here buy grow-your-own kits or buy direct from the smart shops where magic truffles start at around $17, but you can pay up to $50, depending on how much you want and the
strength of the truffles.
“There are different types for different trips. Some are mild, some offer more visuals, some provide a real body high or heaviness. The people in the smart shops in Amsterdam are
usually very knowledgeable and will guide you to the right strain for you.”
In addition to being a bona fide magic mushroom expert, Becky is also conveniently a very good mate of mine, hence me being where I am — in her Amsterdam apartment packing to go to our Airbnb cabin in the woods for our very own truffle mushroom retreat.
TAKE THE MEDICINE
The increase in use of psychedelics is underpinning a booming industry of retreats in the country. And while the masses may still associate mushrooms with a jolly — a shroom
shake during a Full Moon party in Thailand or some sketchy dance festival, for example — the purpose of these retreats goes a long way beyond having a giggle.
Regarded as a “medicine” on these organised retreats, mushrooms are used as a vehicle to heal internal wounds, reconnect with nature, fuel creativity, curb anxiety, offer internal insight and even conquer depression. These claims are backed up by recent scientific studies that suggest when the drugs are used in controlled and safe environments, there’s the potential to treat depression, anxiety and PTSD. And with the promise of the above, the wellness set are travelling to these retreats in their droves from all over the world.
“I have done all of my retreats with Truffles Therapy,” Becky says. “They organise a number of retreats around the Netherlands for various prices depending on your budget, and all come with lodging, great vegan food and time and space for sharing and integration.
“They just provide a safe space for people to try it, which is great because first-timers get to be around people who know what it’s like to trip and dive into the realms of the subconscious and to feel safe while they experiment.”
Though you might think the concept of these retreats is burgeoning and new, archaeological evidence shows that mankind has been using psychedelic mushrooms as far back as between 7000 to 10,000 years ago with artefacts from prehistoric art to sculptures hinting that the drug was used during religious rituals in ancient cultures around the world.
RISE OF ‘MICRODOSING’
While we’re DIY-ing our retreat (my visit to Europe unfortunately didn’t coincide with an official one), Becky is a mushroom pro.
So much so that — as a fearful first-timer — she takes extra special care with me. The morning after we arrive at our woodland retreat, she prepares a “micro-dose” of truffle mushrooms ahead of the main event. Apparently, it’s an easier way to make the jump less “sharp”.
Micro-dosing is the act of consuming tiny amounts of psychedelics, whether it be truffle mushrooms or LSD (found in the ergot fungus that grows on rye).
You may have already read about the rise of Silicon Valley types who are micro-dosing daily on the basis that it helps them become more creative and focused and thus better at their jobs. Tech pioneers Steve Jobs and Bill Gates both famously experimented with LSD. And reports suggest that it’s a practice that is rapidly spreading to other white-collar industries.
Certainly, it’s a far cry from the hippy, tree-hugging stereotype that you might associate with magic mushrooms.
Despite sharing their name with one of the most expensive delicacies in the world, magic truffles taste pretty foul. We take the meaty-spongy textured “nuggets” with some Dutch chocolate spread to help mask the taste before going for a blissful walk through the woods. A few hours later, it was time for the main event.
THE TRIP
Back at our cabin we prepare the backyard. Becky tells me the setting is everything and the horror stories of “bad trips” is a result of being in the wrong location.
“Finding a safe set and setting is the most important thing,” she says. “You need to make sure you’re somewhere comfortable and familiar, either alone or with people you know and trust.
“Having some good music is a nice idea, something relaxing. And don’t make too many plans for afterwards, you need time to decompress, process your experience and integrate any lessons you might have learned in your journey.”
A familiar and safe environment, people you trust, no crowds, no loud, jarring noises — all of this can trigger stress. Bearing all of this in mind, we light incense, lay out our yoga mats and an array of comfy cushions and blankets, prepare a jug of lemon and ginger infused water and bring out speakers for a playlist of music created specifically for tripping. Before imbibing we conduct a small ritual to set our intentions ahead of the “journey”.
Eating the mushrooms in a large quantity requires more chocolate and we eat our way through our bowls in silence, alternating mouthfuls of truffle with squares of chocolate to mask the taste.
“You shouldn’t eat anything for at least three to four hours before you dose,” Becky says. “This is so the psilocybin can work properly on an empty stomach. Some people can also feel nauseous on truffles, but it usually passes within the first hour.”
Effects vary from person to person, but you can expect auditory and visual hallucinations, sharpened senses and heightened reflectivity.
I feel it kick in within half an hour: A wave of what I can only describe as joy reverberates through my body. It makes me beam — a huge, wide grin. I’m infused with happiness. Looking at the trees and the surrounding ferns with a new sense of childlike wonder, I’m completely fascinated by one tree in particular and find it hard to turn my gaze from its leaves, which are gently rustling in the breeze, leaves that suddenly turn into white butterflies — hundreds of them, each fluttering their wings. Then, as quickly as they materialise, they turn into glistening diamonds.
I’m content to be with my own thoughts for what seems like hours, but when we do talk to one another the subjects we cover range from childhood cartoons through to the idea of
time not being linear (“if so, then we could be reincarnated into the past rather than the future?” we muse). We talked about the idea of non-separation from “god” and the idea that we are already — everyone of us — divine. Deep, deep stuff. And the dramatic conversation twists are matched by the rollercoaster-like range of emotions I experience — bouts of tears and then uncontrollable laughter.
Eyes half closed, I return my gaze to the canopy of trees overhead and the leaves morph into an almost shadow puppet-like scene of a village. I see tiny people going about their business and buildings silhouetted. The clouds are similarly malleable. I find many faces in them and at one stage the exact image of Falkor — the dragon from The Neverending Story — emerges from one, his mouth gaping.
Time isn’t a consideration and I’ve lost track, but the dimming of the sun signals that it’s getting late. As the effects of the truffle mushrooms dissipate, I realise that we’ve been outside for close to six hours. Coming down, we pull pre-prepared snacks out of the fridge and exchange stories from our experience over an alfresco sunset picnic.
THE SCIENCE BIT
Although modern-day studies into psychedelics and how they work is still in its infancy, there has been a major revival since initial research was disbanded back in the 1960s.
One of the their main documented effects is the ability to stimulate serotonin, aka the “happy hormone”. Psychedelics can also dampen the activity of an often overused part of our brains
called the “default mode network” (DMN). Used for an array of different mental activities, including daydreaming, self-reflection, and thinking about the past or the future — depression
has been linked to an overactive DMN.
“One way in which classical psychedelics help with issues like depressive, addictive and obsessive disorders is by allowing the brain and mind to ‘break out’ of repetitive and rigid styles of thinking, feeling, and behaving,” explains Peter Hunt, co-founder of Mind Medicine Australia, a charity that lobbies for evidence-based policy that supports the use of psychedelic-assisted psychotherapy.
“We know this from brain imaging data that psychedelics reduce the amount we persistently rethink the same thought (the DMN).
“With mental illness, the DMN can become distorted and overactive. By temporarily decreasing the activity of the DMN, psychedelics appear to facilitate an opportunity to break free from mental ‘ruts’ and promote fresh perspectives.”
International trials are finding mushroom therapy effective in treating depression, anxiety and addiction; in April, the world’s first centre for psychedelic research opened at Imperial College
London; psychedelic therapy involving magic mushrooms is expected to be approved in Australia within the next few years; and in an Australian-first, St Vincent’s hospital in Melbourne announced in January a psychedelic trial will kick off this year. It’s all exciting and highly positive.
WHAT’S NEXT FOR MAGIC MUSHROOMS?
While I’m a total newbie so can’t speak with the authority of an old hat tripper, my takeaway from the experience is just how joyous it was. Aside from the brief nausea, which didn’t last
long, I’m struggling to find a negative.
“Psilocybin is non-addictive and non-habit forming, and it leaves your system pretty fast,” Becky says.
“The only negative you might find is if you’re on other medications or drugs. You should never mix psilocybin with anything else as you don’t know how it will affect your brain.”
While countries across the world legalise weed with increasing momentum — including Canberra’s decision last month to allow adult possession in the state; the possession, use and supply of magic mushrooms is still highly illegal in most of the Western world, though the promising findings could change this.
“We are supporting clinical research and developing a therapist training program to assist the healthcare system make regulatory changes in Australia,” says Tania de Jong, co-founder of Mind Medicine Australia.
“We have also urged the Victorian Royal Commission into Mental Health to consider supporting research and development of psychedelic-assisted psychotherapies via an Australasian Centre of Excellence. It’s a real opportunity to accelerate the development of next-generation mental healthcare.”
Though I can’t wax lyrical about the dramatic purported mental health benefits, I can say that my experience has sparked a desire to explore more. One of the lingering memories from our
retreat was the feeling of freedom.
While tripping, my inner child was released. A Paul who — for a few hours anyway — was unencumbered by the concerns of the daily grind, of earning money to pay bills, of going through endless to-do lists, and of battling the ever-present negative voice in my head that berates me for not being successful enough.
Instead, I was free to take pleasure in the “simple” things, which are actually not so simple (when was the last time you REALLY looked at the veins on a leaf? Or pondered the nature of existence?) Psychedelics allowed me to stop, to be present, and to be enraptured at just how fascinatingly beautiful our world is. And I think all of us could do with a dose of that.
Paul Ewart is a freelance travel writer. Continue the conversation @_paulewart
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