Whistler's changes post-Olympics

BOBSLEDDING, the skeleton, sleigh rides, gondola trips, spa treatments and upmarket hotels all add up to make Whistler one of the world's best ski resorts, writes Brian Crisp.

Whistler escape

IT IS 10 days before Christmas and my world has turned upside down.

My shorts, T-shirt and thongs traditional Australian summer couture to cope with the 35C heat have been replaced by Icebreaker thermal underwear, ski boots, pants, gloves, jacket and a Fremantle Dockers beanie to keep my ears, and balding head, warm.

Nothing prepares you for that first freezing jolt of a minus 5C Canadian winter. Your cheeks glow red from the icy wind and your fingertips involuntarily wiggle in search of the warmest section of the glove.

Every part of me is cold as I wander around the Whistler Village, taking in all the changes that happened for the 2010 Winter Olympics.

Whistler was always good. Now it is better. Whistler hosted the alpine, Nordic and sliding events at the Olympics and naturally every aspect of the mountain received a makeover before the Games to make sure it was in tip-top condition. The Village (population 10,500), which in my opinion offers the best off-snow experience of any resort in the world, was also spruced up, with new fashion shops, restaurants and an outdoor entertainment area.

It is my second visit to this Canadian gem. The first time, I stayed at the Hilton on the Whistler side of the mountain. This time I'm staying at the Fairmont Chateau Whistler, at the foot of Blackcomb Mountain.

Whistler, a two-hour bus trip north of Vancouver in British Columbia, is always ranked among the world's top ski resorts and while the skiing experience will take you to new heights, there's plenty for non-skiers to indulge in.

The Fairmont Chateau is the best address on the mountain. Although it only opened in 1989, it somehow manages to have the feel of an Old-World chateau, but with the modern touches that make a difference.

When we arrived off the Pacific Coach Lines bus from Vancouver Airport, the spacious foyer was filled with oversized Christmas trees, with intricately wrapped boxes underneath, and staff offering warming cups of cinnamon-tinged apple cider.

It had been a long day so, after two ciders, we crashed into the king bed of our Fairmont Gold suite and slept for the best part of 12 hours.

Staying in Fairmont Gold has many pluses, not the least is that breakfast, and afternoon snacks and drinks, are included as part of the package.

You might pay a little more for the room but the host of extras are worth it.

The hotel is big so it easily caters for families wanting group activities and couples looking for privacy.

Make sure that you find time to dine at The Chalet the hotel's tasty fondue restaurant.

Ski fields and fondue dining seem to go hand-in-cheese all around the world and the dining experience here is as good as you will find anywhere else.

The other thing you should do is take a sleigh ride around the golf course.

These torchlit rides run each winter evening so make sure you rug up.

There's something really romantic about looking out over the village with lights on and smoke climbing from the chimneys.

On the snow front, there's never a shortage of it at Whistler so even if you are there early in the season, like us, most runs are open.

Whistler and Blackcomb are two distinct mountains. Some skiers never venture off one mountain.

I skied exclusively on Whistler during my previous visit so, to get my bearings, I booked a private one-day ski lesson.

Having an instructor iron out the kinks in your ski style is important but getting an expert to show you the best runs for your ability is invaluable. 

-- Post-Olympic fun

The Peak to Peak Gondola

The 11-minute ride from mountain to mountain is something no visitor to Whistler should miss.

You will travel 4.4km from Roundhouse Lodge on Whistler Mountain to Rendezvous Lodge on Blackcomb.

Make sure you take a camera because it is a photographer's dream shooting down on to the mountain. 

 Scandinave Spa Whistler

This spa is the perfect place to unwind after a day on the slopes. Opened in 2010 for the Olympics, the spa experience starts with a eucalyptus steam bath or a dip in the heated pools to open the pores.

Then, if you are game, jump into the cold bath to, according to the experts, close the pores and boost the immune system.

I dipped my toes in -  my immune system is fine, thanks very much.

Finally, relax in the solarium to allow your system to recover. The process takes about 30 minutes but don't forget to enjoy the view and the night lights. The outdoor spa is open from 10am until 9pm every day, regardless of the weather conditions.

The Scandinavian Bath packages start at $58. 

Whistler Sliding Centre

Ever fancied yourself as a member of the Jamaican bobsled team? Then here's your chance. At the Whistler Sliding Centre you can slide down the Olympic Bobsled track, or even do the Skeleton. By the time you reach the final corner of the 1458m track you, two mates and the bobsled pilot will be travelling at 135km/h. The track is rated as the fastest in the world. 

New next season

- Extremely Canadian Backcountry Clinics

Extremely Canadian, Whistler's Steep Skiing Clinic founders, are taking their legendary program into the backcountry. Experience mind-blowing guided backcountry skiing with professional coaches who will share techniques and tactics to hone your skiing, boost your safety knowledge, and heighten your awareness in big mountain terrain.

Expected dates are mid-December this year to late April next year. Groups or private clinics are available. Details: [e-mail]. 

The writer was a guest of Tourism British Columbia (britishcolumbia.travel) and the Canadian Tourism Commission (canada.travel).

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WHISTLER

- Getting there

Qantas has daily flights to Los Angeles with connections to Vancouver. See qantas.com.au

- Staying there

Ski Whistler from $739 a person, twin share. Earlybird bonus: 35 per cent off accommodation and 45 per cent off ski pass. Includes seven nights twin share in a studio room at Town Plaza Suites; and a six-day ski pass. Conditions apply. Valid for travel Nov 21-Dec 13 this year.

Prices subject to change and availability. Book and pay by Aug 31. Bonus included in package price.

For bookings call Ski Max on 1300 136 997.

Useful websites: whistler.com, britishcolumbia.travel, canada.travel

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