Whale watching in Sydney

WATCHING and listening to the gentle giants as they migrate along Australia's east coast is a fascinating experience, writes Helen Parker.

THERE'S something unnerving about having a mammal the size of a 30-tonne truck appear from under the water.

Watching whales in the open ocean seems to be on most people's bucket list nowadays and we're lucky enough to be with the folks from GoDo and Australian Spirit Sailing. On the trip our eyes were fixed on the waves looking for the telltale blowhole release from migrating humpbacks.

There are as many variations in whale-watching tours as the whales themselves. We've opted for a low-key approach on a half-day whale watching tour off Sydney Heads.

Whale watching is booming as the numbers of these magnificent mammals continue to grow, with estimates of about 15,000 humpback whales migrating along the east coast of Australia this year to mate and calve in the warmer northern waters.

The 10,000km journey brings the whales past plenty of keen onlookers right along the eastern seaboard.

The day we head out it's clear blue skies and a light breeze. Perfect whale-watching weather - but that doesn't guarantee you'll see them.

After all, you're dealing with Mother Nature and she's not always going to deliver the breathtaking shots that you might have seen in wildlife documentaries on television.

Ultimately, it's all about timing.

The whale watch cruisers communicate with each other and share information. Based on observations and keen eyes on board your vessel, there's a good chance that at peak season your paths will cross the whales.

Humpbacks surface every six to eight minutes so even when you do find a pod of whales it's up to a canny captain to steer the vessel towards the best guess as to where the mammals will resurface.

If you're prone to sea sickness a small vessel or sailing ship like the one we're on probably won't be best for you. The bigger commercial catamarans and powered vessels give a much steadier ride. It's less personal but chances are your head and stomach will remain civilised - depending on the seas.

If you don't mind riding the swell, enjoying the spray and walking a moving deck, a motorised sailing boat like the Katrina could be right for you.

As we scan the horizon we venture a few kilometres off Sydney Heads, watching for bird life (who feed on the sea life that the whales bring to the surface), watching for bubbles, currents - any telltale sign that a massive mammal might be nearby.

Aboard our vessel are a couple of adventurous backpackers from France and the US - they keep a vigilant watch, keen that their adventure pays off.

It takes over an hour but finally two whales are spotted just over 700m off Sydney's favourite surfing beaches. It's an older mother and her adolescent calf. There's no pausing for our cameras though and, with the skipper being careful to keep the legal distance away from the pair, these whales are keenly en route for sunny Queensland waters.

What newbie watchers may not realise is the whales have complex songs. The male humpback composes a new song each year that the rest of the pod sing.

Since the first humpback whale song was identified in 1971, no pod has sung the same song and each pod's song is updated each year.

During our cruise we can hear the whales briefly. The sound travels up through the hull and is picked up by our microphones. There's a whole different world going on down there beneath us.

The backpackers are glowing from what they describe as an "awesome, amazing experience".

As the whales disappear underwater, we head back into Sydney. It's a double sunset as the sun sinks into the west like Mother Nature's backdrop to the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the eastern horizon glows orange and purple.

Everyone on board quietly lets the experience sink in as we watch the sun sink lower on a calm sea and a busy harbourside city.

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Go2

SYDNEY

Seeing there

Whale-watching cruises depart Sydney Harbour until the end of October. Prices start at $110 a person.

See godo.com.au or ph 1300 463 648.