The cool capital of Wellington

ON the back of its Lonely Planet "cool city" accolade, the New Zealand destination has more impressive and funky joints to explore than ever before, writes Jess Leo.

wellington cool escape dec 30

THE clock ticks over to 3pm and the sound of a radio news update cuts through the wintry sunlight.

The news announcer whips through the local news and then adds, "across the ditch" before dispensing with a few Australian current affairs headlines. The routine hourly news -  which is playing in the car as we leisurely drive through the lush New Zealand countryside highlights a startling disparity. While Kiwis are acutely aware of Australians' lives, we know little of what's going on with our southern neighbours. Bar the rugby, the occasional political story and, natural disasters we hear little day to day of what New Zealanders are up to. Well in case you're wondering, while Christchurch has been rebuilding from the devastating February 2011 earthquake and the All Blacks have been dominating our Wallabies, New Zealand's unassuming capital Wellington has been busy growing up. Now marketed under the moniker of "the coolest little capital in the world" -  thanks to a Lonely Planet endorsement last year -  the harbourside city has morphed from being a gangly, awkward teenager unsure of its identity to position itself as a hip culinary destination complete with its own entertainment industry, affectionately referred to as "Wellywood". Boutique nightspots compete with high end restaurants for street frontage and the coolest patrons while the achingly hip Cuba St has retained its grungy edge while becoming more user friendly. Just ask any of the locals  - there's a lot of pride involved with this transition  - the city now boasts that it is home to more bars and restaurants per capita than New York. And it seems word might finally be getting out  - 16 per cent more Aussies flew into Wellington in 2011 with a three hour direct flight operating from our east coast around 50 times a week. It's not surprising then on our first morning in the affectionately and aptly named windy city we're headed for a locals' favourite  - Maranui Cafe, a 1940s style cafe housed in a Lyall Bay surf club. With a comprehensive menu of hearty favourites with gourmet add-ons it's no surprise this eatery  - which is a short drive out of downtown Wellington  - does a rip roaring trade, particularly on weekends. As local legend has it, a fire which broke out in the building some years ago devastated the community that much, locals rallied to raise funds and resurrect their foodie haunt. There's that unshakeable Welly pride shining through again. From the casual funky vibe of Maranui, there's another end of the spectrum Wellington also adequately fulfils  - fine dining and gourmet get-ups. From Cuba St's Matterhorn and Logan Brown to the suburbs' answer to a perfect lazy Sunday lunch, The Larder, there are plenty of culinary capers to explore. With its small but carefully crafted menu, The Ambeli, is perhaps one of the best examples of how grown up Wellington is. Austere but cosy the restaurant, tucked away in Majoribanks St, does a fantastic job of showcasing local wine  - just try to resist a New Zealand Pinot Noir  - and produce. But sadly, one can't spend all day eating and so, refreshingly, there's plenty to do in Wellington while you're digesting the region's spoils. The Carter Observatory, Wellington cable car and shopping in Cuba Mall are all within a short stroll of each other. However a real treat is a visit to Te Papa museum. Stretching over six floors, the waterfront building -  which opened in 1998  - celebrates and explores all that is New Zealand. Beginning with the country's natural environment  - including its precarious position along a fault line  - the museum walks through the country's heritage right into present day. The chapters on the Maori settlement of New Zealand are perhaps the most compelling as the culture is celebrated, explained and ultimately cherished suggesting that Wellington pride isn't exclusive to the capital for the most part it's a national trait. And it's sadly a stark contrast to how some Australians view our indigenous population. Culture and culinary offerings are rounded out by one other key facet of Wellington life  - a vibrant and thriving nightlife. Favouring cute lounge bars and wine bistros over thumping clubs, there's no shortage of watering holes to again sample that impressive local wine  - or even some local brews, among them Moa, Yeastie Boys, ParrotDog and Tuatara. Ancestral is a darkened space packed with business suits and a more sophisticated crowd while just a few doors down at The Library, uni students and hipsters lounge about in the shadow of shelves shabbily but artfully crammed with books. And then there's the retro chic that is Motel Bar. Slotted down an innocuous laneway, this was the infamous venue that reportedly turned away none other than Liv Tyler when she was in town filming Peter Jackson's Lord of the Rings. It has since been suggested the venue was simply full, not trying to make an example of the brunette beauty. And in any event, when this writer frequented the nightspot for one last cocktail on a Friday night there was another member of Wellywood royalty hanging out at the very same locale. In New Zealand to film Jackson's latest project The Hobbit was Billy Connolly, rubbing shoulders with the locals and bar staff as if he was a regular. And that's the year round entertainment on offer. Each year Wellington also hosts several notable events  - from the NZ International Film Festival in late July to August's Wellington on A Plate foodie festival, there's little cause to get bored. And there are lush wine regions in the form of Hawke's Bay, Wairarapa and Marlborough  - which with Wellington make up The Classic New Zealand Wine Trail  - just a short drive or ferry ride away. The only issue this writer found in the cool little capital was finding a pleasant place to lay her head. The InterContinental, while suited to business travel, offered no unique Wellington experience while the much-hyped Museum Art Hotel did little to capitalise on its waterfront location and was soulless in its decor and skimped on comfort. -- The writer was a guest of Positively Wellington and Air New Zealand. Go2  - GETTING THERE Air New Zealand and Qantas fly direct from the east coast to Wellington several times each week. Other Australian cities have direct flights to Auckland with connections to Wellington. Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.com.au or call 13 24 76) or Qantas (www.qantas.com or 13 13 13). - STAYING THERE There are several hotels along the Wellington waterfront and in the downtown and Cuba St areas. Major chains including InterContinental, Novotel, Travelodge and CQ hotels operate in Wellington as well as boutique accommodation such as Ohtel and Museum Art Hotel. - GETTING AROUND Wellington's compact downtown area means you can reach all the major attractions as well as most restaurants and bars by foot. The Wellington Cable Car is a handy help and public transport operates out to suburban areas. -- "Like" Escape.com.au  on Facebook Follow  @Escape_team on Twitter