Tahiti tour for the pampered

IT'S not hard to adjust to the rhythms of a decadent life aboard a luxury catamaran crusing the waters of Tahiti, writes Melissa Stevens.

Decadent ... superb comfort aboard the luxury cataraman Haumana crusing through Tahitian waters

IT'S one of those days where you wouldn't wish to be anywhere else; the sky is clear and the beach on this tropical motu (islet) is ours alone.

The calm waters are such that they are impossible to replicate: a shade of Tahitian turquoise blue, the marine life easily sighted.

Passengers on the luxury catamaran cruise ship Haumana are sitting around a dining table on the beach, feasting on barbecued lobster and fresh salads, and drinking chilled French white wine.

The scene is so idyllic it belies the fact that this French picnic is actually Plan B. Uninvited winds had thwarted the original idea for the barbecue lunch to be served in the water, allowing us to cool our heels, quite literally.

But no matter, Plan B hardly gives reason for complaint. The crew of Haumana had adapted their plans so effortlessly that, if not for the printed schedule in the cabins each night, we probably would have been none the wiser.

Our impromptu beach fine-dining experience comes midway in a four-day cruise of the lagoon of island Rangiroa, which means "immense sky" in Polynesian.

The Haumana offers three- to seven-day cruises year-round and a luxury "small ship" cruising experience with 16 staff for a maximum of 24 guests.

The cabins have large picture windows, queen-size beds, individual air-conditioning, a flat-screen television to watch DVDs and twice-daily housekeeping.

The price tag on a four-night trip is enough to raise eyebrows so most people would only be able to afford the experience as a one-off to mark a honeymoon or milestone anniversary.

And the restaurant, stylish lounge bar, main lounge on the top deck with stunning views, a jacuzzi and a sun deck mean a Haumana cruise is well-suited for those looking for a romantic getaway.

Passengers joining our cruise take the short flight from the island of Tahiti (gateway Papeete) to Rangiroa, the second largest atoll in the world, and then are taken aboard a jet boat for a short hop to join the vessel.

Once on board, the days have a gentle rhythm. A small continental breakfast for early-risers is offered from 6.30am with a full breakfast in the dining room from 7.30am to 9.30am.

About 10am guests are whisked somewhere for morning activities, returning for lunch any time between 12.30pm to 2pm, followed by another organised afternoon activity before being returned to the ship.

Afternoon tea is served about 5pm before pre-dinner entertainment on board begins in the lounge area: traditional Polynesian music and dancing performed by the seemingly inexhaustible crew. Dinner is served in the dining room from 7.30pm.

The number of guests was reasonably small: a pair of honeymooners, a couple celebrating their 10th wedding anniversary and a small family group. The dining room is set up to encourage guests to mingle with each other and dine communally so, quite quickly, a camaraderie develops between the passengers.

The four-day Pink Sand cruise is activities-based, so the day is structured with optional morning and afternoon activities including escorted beach and nature walks, snorkelling, kayaking, fishing and village visits.

On the afternoon of our first day on board we are taken snorkelling in the area known as the Aquarium; a reef complete with dozens of brightly coloured fish and coral. It proved to be the snorkelling highlight of the cruise.

Haumana Cruises aims to give guests a true Polynesian experience - and part of that are visits to traditional villages on the island of Rangiroa, such as the villages of Tiputa, Shells Islet and Otepipi.

We meander slowly through the streets of Tiputa, which is home to about 1000 people, the simplicity of their lifestyle illustrated by a list of names and numbers pinned next to the front door of one of the village's small general stores.

The ship's activities director (who doubles as tour guide) explains that the list details amounts owed by local families to the store, which opens twice a week.

The population of the Shells Islet is smaller again: just one family makes their home on the islet, harvesting the orange shells specific to Rangiroa and used to make the necklaces synynomous with the area.

Otepipi is a trip into Rangiroa's past. Now deserted, the village's only relic is a church.

The four-day cruise takes its name from the Pink Sand Islet, a long strip of pink-hued sand, where we spent a pleasant afternoon enjoying cocktails made by the staff from a floating bar.

No visit to French Polynesia is complete without viewing the process in which the famed Tahitian black pearl is created.

There are about 1000 pearl farms in the Tahitian islands, with five on Rangiroa. We visit the Gauguin pearl farm and are given a thorough tour which shows the painstaking and lengthy process which is part of creating the black pearl.

A Haumana package includes meals, which are truly a stand-out feature of the cruise.

The Haumana chef was trained in Paris and it shows in the excellent, innovative meals blending French and Polynesian cuisine.

Over the four days, the menu featured duck in a perigourdine and garlic sauce, crab pie with mushrooms, scallops and shrimp, beef fillet with foie gras, and vanilla tiramasu.

Haumana translates to "spirit of peace" in Polynesian and, while you may disembark several kilos heavier, your spirit will feel much lighter.

The writer was a guest of Tahiti Tourism

The Sunday Telegraph