Surf yoga retreat with Escape Haven Bali

ANGELA Saurine discovers the spiritual side of Bali on a surf and yoga retreat with Escape Haven.

Villa accommodation in Seminyak, Bali. Picture: Supplied

RAINDROPS plop into the pool and splatter against the leaves of the banana trees in front of us as the smell of incense wafts across the terrace and the cool breeze from the overhead fan flows across us, providing a welcome relief from the sticky, tropical heat.

Slowly, the intensity of the rain increases until we can hear water pouring down the side of the wall of our luxury villa. They are the kind of sounds you would listen to on a meditation CD back home but here on the Indonesian island of Bali, they are real.

We are fortunate that the first day of our retreat coincides with a full moon, and we begin with a full-moon offering ceremony led by a visiting Balinese priest, Iluh.

We take a frangipani in our hands and cup it, hold it above us in the prayer position before putting it to the side and taking two other flowers, one yellow and one pink, and run through the same routine, this time leaving them on top of our heads. Iluh makes her way around and, one by one, splashes holy water from a nearby temple on us three times.

We then wipe our faces with the water.

I had arrived with a swollen red arm, thanks to a mysterious insect bite or allergy, and when Iluh finds out after the ceremony, she is eager to cure it. She rubs my arm, squeezes it, removes her hand and blows the problem out of her palm before rubbing a petal left over from our previous ritual into my arm.

The swelling slowly subsides, but I have no way to tell if it is thanks to Iluh's magic hands, or the antihistamine I took just before.

Regardless, it is a wonderful start to our retreat at Escape Haven Bali in the chic area of Seminyak.

Villa accommodation in Seminyak, Bali. Picture: Supplied

I had taken up yoga after being inspired by Elizabeth Gilbert in her best-selling novel, Eat Pray Love, and had a couple of surf lessons earlier this year, so when I heard about New Zealander Janine Hall's new retreats, I jumped at the chance to spend a week embracing my two new loves.

Hall worked in the fashion industry in London before falling in love with water sports during a year spent travelling after breaking up with her boyfriend. After an unsuccessful attempt to return to the "real world" back home, she found herself living in Bali running the kind of retreats she would like to do herself.

Our routine is similar every day. It usually starts with a one-hour yoga session in the tropical garden, followed by a breakfast of muesli, tropical fruits such as pineapple, mango and watermelon, fruit pancakes and omelet. We then jump in the van and navigate the chaotic traffic to Legian Beach for our two-hour surf lesson with the wonderful Balinese instructors from Double D surf school.

Many yoga moves are similar to surfing, and we progress quickly in the water.

After our surf lesson, we return to the villa for lunch. The delicious meals are mostly gluten-free, organic, vegetarian dishes designed by Byron Bay therapeutic chef and nutritionist Samantha Gowing, who has worked at several premium lifestyle retreats, including Gwinganna in the Gold Coast hinterland.

In the afternoon we can relax by the pool, shop or have massages and spa treatments. Our gorgeous villa, Aliya, is just around the corner from Bodyworks Spa, and three hours of spa treatments are included in the package.

Five per cent of all Surf Haven's profits go to The Bali Orphanage or the Bali Animal Welfare Association, which has just been given government approval and funding to eradicate rabies from the island. Guests can visit the charities during their stay.

Halfway through the week we take a day off surfing and travel to the hill town of Ubud, about an hours drive away.

Surrounded by lush green rainforest and rice paddies, Ubud is filled with art galleries, handicraft stores, cafes and restaurants.

It's just a shame to see a Starbucks next to the Lotus temple, as well as Ralph Lauren and Dolce and Gabbana stores.

Our first stop is a visit to Wayan, a spiritual healer who has become famous thanks to her friendship with Elizabeth Gilbert.

Pictures of Gilbert and Julia Roberts, who plays her in the recently-released movie, are posted on the wall above her medicine cabinet, containing glass jars of herbs.

Wayan gets us to drink a bright orange blood cleanser of turmeric juice with honey and lime, followed by another green herbal drink which is "good for strong sex''.

She taps my tummy, lifts up my shirt to look under my arm and feels my legs, before giving me the results of my reading, which sets me back about AU$30.

She tells me I am somewhere between "little smart'' and "big smart'', my knees hurt, my memory is not as good as it used to be, I have too much acid in my stomach, my mind is sometimes busy, I am lazy when it comes to taking care of myself and I am angry at someone, which is making the top of my liver cloudy, and I need to let it go.

Then, she reads my palm, saying I am going to live a long life, I will be a good wife when I get married in three years time and will change jobs less often in the future than I have in the past.

She makes me take about a dozen little pills on the spot and gives me more to take away with me, before putting oil on my forehead and shoving a bunch of leaves down my pants and sticking them to my stomach.

We spend the afternoon on a tranquil downhill bike ride through the nearby villages, passing women carrying bowls of fruit on their heads, men carrying tree branches and people in conical triangular hats working in the rice paddies.

There is a strong smell of smoke coming from people's chimneys and the sound of roosters crowing and chicks squeaking.

Children stand at the side of the road and scream "halloooooooo'' as we pass and hold their hands out for us to slap them.

We don't see any other westerners for two hours.

A woman praying in the fields near Ubud. Picture: Angela Saurine

Back in Seminyak the next day, I pay a visit to another traditional healer, Yanto, who has become a bit of a word-of-mouth sensation in these parts.

By the end of the session I can see why.

In a small room down a hard-to-find alley, the Borneo-born Yanto introduces himself as Brad Pitt before asking what kind of music I would like played.

"I have techno, Grinspoon, Metallica, ACDC,'' he says.

"Don't you have any relaxing music?'' I ask.

"No,'' he replies. "If you want other music you have to bring it yourself, didn't Janine tell you?''

I reluctantly choose Grinspoon and lie floppy ``like a jellyfish'' as he begins twisting my arms and pulling my leg.

It turns out he has been doing the latter in more ways than one and, as I have been told to lie totally still, I have to stifle a giggle as soft meditation music starts to play.

I relax so much that, as Yanto touches the side of my neck near the end, I feel like I am about to start to levitate or have an out of body experience but, unfortunately, I pull myself back.

But I can no longer feel the shell of my body, feeling instead more like a spirit energy.

It is amazing.

After my treatment, Yanto shows me a book of handwritten testimonials, with dozens of entries from people who say they have been cured or dramatically improved illnesses such as arthritis, haemorrhoids and prostate problems.

Some write of floating experiences and seeing colours.

I can't wait to see what happens next time I visit.

The writer was a guest of Escape Haven.

Go2 BALI

Escape Haven offers a range of surf, yoga and fitness retreat packages in Bali and Byron Bay.

More: escapehaven.com

Getting there

Flight Centre can arrange flights to Bali. Ph 133 133 or see flightcentre.com.au

Enjoy daily yoga classes at Escape Haven Bali. Picture: Supplied