Vision splendid on Waterfall Way

PERCHED amid rolling green hills on the eastern escarpment of the Great Dividing Range, Dorrigo is a lush oasis, writes Joanna Tovia.

Explore ... there are 11 national parks (three World Heritage listed) all within an hour's drive of Dorrigo

PERCHED amid rolling green hills on the eastern escarpment of the Great Dividing Range, Dorrigo is a lush oasis, and its closeness to coastal Coffs Harbour makes it a great summer base.

It is "up the mountain" from the better-known tourist town of Bellingen and prides itself on retaining a country-town feel.

The owners of Moss Grove Bed and Breakfast, John and Sue Eastment, haven't looked back since making Dorrigo their home a few years ago.

Their charming federation home is set on 2.4ha and provides a restful country retreat with more than a touch of luxury.

A tasty afternoon tea is served on your arrival in their manicured gardens overlooking green pastures. Moss Grove's hosts are friendly, but as unobtrusive as you want them to be.

The accommodation, comprising two tastefully decorated bedrooms, sparkling bathroom and cosy sitting room with its own wood fire, is separated from the rest of the house by a folding door.

It has its own entrance and a sense of privacy.

There are a few dining options in Dorrigo, ranging from pub fare at The Heritage bistro to upmarket Misty's, where sumptuous meals are served in a 1920s cottage of leadlight and charm. Misty's is open for dinner from Thursday to Sunday, and lunch on Sundays.

The chilly evenings of Dorrigo can make it hard to leave the comforts of Moss Grove. Fortunately, dinner can be arranged in the dining room of the main house.

Dinners here are almost as impressive as the breakfasts awaiting guests in the morning.

A spread of fruit pureed in Greek yoghurt, muesli and fresh fruit is just the start. A hot breakfast is also prepared on the spot; Sue and John think nothing of whipping up eggs benedict (or boiled googie egg with toast soldiers for the discerning three-year-old).

Moss Grove is a good base from which to explore the Dorrigo region and you don't have to go far for some wondrous rewards. There are 11 national parks (three World Heritage listed) all within an hour's drive.

Dorrigo National Park is one of the most accessible in Australia and is ideal for families.

A good starting point at this national park is the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre, where there is an interactive education centre, cafe and gift shop.

A skywalk extends over the rainforest canopy which, on clear days, offers views across the mountains all the way to the sea.

There are bushwalking tracks of all grades, but a must-do is the Lyrebird Link Track. This easy 400m stroll from the Rainforest Centre links up with the Wonga Walk, if you are keen to go further. It's a 5.8km circuit through subtropical rainforest via a waterfall and picnic glade.

A symphony of birds accompanies bushwalkers and it is a most enjoyable way to get back to nature without any of the usual discomfort ... as long as you avoid the giant leaves of the stinging tree. These tracks, paved and free of stairs, are accessible to strollers and wheelchairs.

The secluded Never Never Picnic Area, a 10km drive from the Rainforest Centre, is well worth a visit. The silence and serenity is striking. There are walking tracks from this picnic area through warm temperate rainforest and wet sclerophyll forest.

Dangar Falls, 6km from the centre of town, is also a must-see. A short walk through the rainforest takes you to the base of the falls and there are vantage points along the way for photos.

Dorrigo has a few shopping gems. The Dorrigo Sweet Shop is sure to bring out the child in you and there are cafes, a boutique and an interesting secondhand store. Deli and kitchenware shop, Lick The Spoon, and the bakery sell local produce which is finding its way to customers well beyond the district.

If you are planning a getaway to this earthy little town, be sure to take the spectacular drive of Waterfall Way to get there, rather than going via the coast.

Waterfall Way stretches for 280km from Tamworth east to the Pacific Highway near Coffs Harbour. It winds its way through dramatic scenery and provides plenty of opportunities to check out waterfalls, lookouts and national parks.

The Gumbayngirr Aboriginal people refer to the Dorrigo region as "the road home, the spirit place" and say they "feel a connection with the creator" there.

Anyone who visits this special part of the world will see why.