New Zealand's Wanaka tempts all the senses

THE views will get you in the mood, but it's the food artisans of Wanaka who will really leave their mark.

escape wanaka

"I LEFT my heart in San Francisco," goes the old song.

Well, I'm pretty sure I lost part of my stomach in Wanaka.

At least that's what it felt like.

We floated up, up, in a toy-sized helicopter, rising high above the beautiful Matukituki Valley, herds of red deer scrambling far below us.

As the glowering peaks of Mt Aspiring National Park loomed, I was so busy barracking for the pilot to get safely across the first saddle that, gliding easily over it, the vista revealed below took me completely by surprise.

"Eweeeiioooooooow."

Sorry passengers, it's OK. We're not crashing. That's just the noise I make when I'm seriously impressed.

Taking a scenic flight with Aspiring Helicopters is a spectacular way to gain perspective on this stunning part of New Zealand's South Island, with its icy-blue tarns, tussocked hills, braided rivers and glaciers.

In winter, pilot Alex Ford gets plenty of business from thrill-seeking Aussies who want to go heli-skiing.

Many, she says, ski down and then hire her to bring them straight back up again, repeating the exercise until their cash runs out.

The delights of New Zealand's ski capital, Queenstown, are well known but Queenstown's quieter cousin, Wanaka, also deserves attention.

It's one of the fastest growing resort towns in New Zealand, tucked away in a covetable position alongside the 45km-long Lake Wanaka.

It's an exhilarating 50-minute zigzag from Queenstown airport across the Crown Range to Wanaka.

The snow pulls in the adrenalin junkies from about June and for several months they play on the slopes of Treble Cone and the Cardrona Alpine Park in the crystal-clear air.

But year round, Wanaka seems perfectly positioned for the greedy foodie it's within a screw-top toss of award-winning central Otago wineries such as Felton Road, Mt Difficulty and Rippon Vineyard.

Funny French Cars is a winery tour with a difference run by artist Deane Weastall and his partner Julie.

Weastall is a fifth-generation Kiwi who grew up in French Caledonia and knows everything there is to know about the area and the picturesque vineyards dotted about Central Otago.

Every second winery appears to have a Burgundian winemaker somewhere in the background helping out, so it seems fitting to glide up to cellar doors in his beautiful old Citroen DS, or one of the cute 2CVs.

It's even better that you don't have to drive and can take advantage of the tasting opportunities on offer.

Weastall is happy to tailor tours to suit personal tastes. You can visit everything from award-winning garagiste vintner Remarkable Wines in Bannockburn through to schmick operations like Wooing Tree.

Just don't ask him to theme a visit around sauvignon blanc. That particular Kiwi favourite grows best much further north. Central Otago is known for its award-winning pinot noirs and zesty dry rieslings and it would be verging on sacrilegious to miss out on these.

One of the most idyllically situated wineries and there is strong competition for this accolade around here is Rippon Vineyard, perched overlooking Lake Wanaka.

It's an an easy bike ride from town.

At this biodynamic operation, nibble on a platter of award-winning handmade Whitestone cheeses and congratulate yourself on finding one of the world's truly happy places.

At Mt Difficulty, off the famous Felton Rd, alongside the likes of the renowned Felton Road winery and Olssons, check out Bannockburn's own mini-Grand Canyon. It's real John Wayne country.

It's all that remains of the sluicing operations from the alluvial goldfields that first drew settlers here.

The restaurant at Mt Difficulty provides yet more jaw-dropping views and tasty options for a post-wine-tasting refuel, with house platters sporting the likes of buffalo mozzarella and balsamic, homemade gingerbread and blue cheese, and chunky terrines. Or opt for one of the specials, a risotto studded with green-lip mussels, maybe, or hearty pork belly and cassoulet.

My trip to Wanaka coincided with a visit from Electrolux Appetite for Excellence young chef of the year Soren Lascelles, of Sydney's Assiette restaurant. Soren and Wyndham Vacation Resort chef Chris Hughes teamed up to create a five-course feast to accompany offerings from surrounding vineyards.

Bluff oysters and tiny fried whitebait teamed with Quartz Reef methode traditionelle and terrine of local rabbit with Olssen's Slapjack Creek pinot had Lascelles singing the praises of Otago produce and wines.

Hughes also co-owns a local eatery, Sapphire Restaurant, which again offers lovely lake views and proudly trumpets local wines and the produce of the South Island think Havoc pork, Akaroa salmon, Canterbury duck and Fjiordland wild venison for starters.

If a bit of my belly is actually still AWOL in Wanaka, I'm sure it's quite content.

Staying there
Until June 12, Wyndham Vacation Resorts Wanaka is offering a one-bed deluxe apartment for two nights from $149, twin share. Conditions apply. Email [e-mail] or visit wyndhamvacation resorts.com.au

Doing there
>> Aspiring Helicopters
>> Adventure Wanaka (trike rides and boat charter)
>> Funny French Cars
>> Sapphire Restaurant
>> Otago Wine

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