Outback road trip from Mount Isa to Cloncurry
An adventure through the outback is exactly what travel-starved Aussies need and is surprisingly accessible — even to this township well off the typical tourist trail.
The highways surrounding Mount Isa and Cloncurry in outback Queensland are strikingly barren and brutal, wedged between the beautiful contrast of the clear blue sky and red soil.
But speckled along the roads linking the historic central west cities are tranquil waterholes, lakes, character-filled pubs and a fascinating ghost city abandoned by workers who mined uranium.
The region has been dangled before our eyes on prime time television as the backdrop for this season’s instalment of reality show Survivor, and is the perfect antidote for travel-starved Australians desperate for an adventure amid rolling lockdowns and indefinite border closures.
With bright blue skies above textured, red soil-laden rolling countryside — the outback tranquillity feels like another world away from the concrete jungle surrounding the Brisbane River, despite being reached by just a two-hour and forty-minute flight.
This section of the Overlander’s Way is less frequented by outback explorers than the roads linking Winton and Longreach, but the region close to the Northern Territory border is equally beautiful and packed with activities.
Tourists can fly directly to Mount Isa on daily flights from Brisbane, Cairns and Townsville, where a rental car can access most of the sites between the city and 120km to Cloncurry as well the further one-and-half hour drive to Julia Creek.
LAKE MOONDARRA
On arrival in Mount Isa, it’s impossible not to be swept up by the dryness of the landscape in the city famous for Australia’s largest rodeo.
But on the edge of town, the huge expanse of water at Lake Moondarra offers the unusual prospect of an annual triathlon, boat club and freshwater to escape the heat.
Surrounding peaks provide lookouts to admire the lake, which serves as an ideal weekend location for locals to swim, kayak, fish and picnic.
FOUNTAIN SPRINGS
About halfway between Mount Isa and Cloncurry, a dirt road off the Barkly Highway leads to a waterhole known as Fountain Springs below a towering crevice in a cliff.
The surrounding trees protecting the sandy beach offer a cool respite from the sun with cool clear water and chirping birds. It’s impossible not to be overcome by the beauty and plunge into silence to absorb the serene beauty.
For the adventurous with the upgraded 4WD rental, there’s also a 23km Ballara Mining Heritage Trail to enjoy the spinifex landscapes and rocky outcrops that reveal the historic boom and bust mining industry synonymous with the state’s central west.
MARY KATHLEEN URANIUM MINE
Mary Kathleen was a flourishing township housing miners and their families who extracted uranium up until the 1980s.
Through the 70s, the community resembled suburban bliss with lawn-fronted homes, schools, sports fields, two churches, stores and even an olympic sized swimming pool.
But Mary Kathleen is now a ghost town after the homes were sold off and transported to Mount Isa, leaving only a patchwork of concrete slabs which were once covered by carports.
The history is fascinating, but the more spectacular view is aside the old open pit mine which has filled with water to evolve into a sparkling blue lake.
The tracks are rough, however, so it’s best to avoid damaging your rental car and jumping on-board a large off-road bus to enjoy the hidden spots with North West Tours.
CHINAMAN CREEK DAM
One of the more recognisable locations from Survivor is Chinaman Creek Dam near Cloncurry.
The scenery is stunning and the fresh water serves as yet another ideal spot to cool off and enjoy lunch.
JULIA CREEK AND MCKINLAY
Julia Creek is another hour-and-a-half past Cloncurry but the now famous artesian baths at the town’s caravan park is reason enough to drive the extra 140km.
Looking out over vast plains, a number of water tanks converted into bathhouses allow travellers to relax in private under the sky in baths filled with hot water.
A generous cheese and meat board can be added on with BYO drinks as the ideal location to reminisce after a day on the road.
An hour south of Julia Creek is Mckinlay.
Famous for being home to iconic scenes from the classic Australian film Crocodile Dundee, the small town of Mckinlay consists of only a few buildings but is uniquely beautiful and stark.
WHILE YOU’RE THERE
MT ISA
Where to stay: Redearth Boutique Hotel
Where to eat: Dinner and drinks (amazing steaks) at the Rodeo Bar and Grill, breakfast and coffee at the Xtra Mile Cafe
CLONCURRY
Where to stay: The Gidgee Inn
Where to eat: The Wagon Wheel is a charming pub with delicious food, while the Red Door Cafe, which is a social enterprise that provides employment and training to local unemployed youths, offers delicious breakfast and coffee. The Central Hotel Cloncurry is also a great spot for a beer and meal
JULIA CREEK
More Coverage
Where to stay: Julia Creek Caravan Park, and don’t forget to book a bath!
Where to eat: The Julia Creek Top Pub is yet another charming establishment with delicious food
The author of this article travelled to Queensland’s central west as a guest of Tourism and Events Queensland.
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