Northern NSW and where to go that’s better than Byron Bay
Thanks to the celebs and Instagram fame, Byron Bay has become bigger than ever. But this little place just 90 minutes away is so much better.
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When it comes to taking a holiday at home, no other country has it better than what Australia has to offer. And while parts of the country are facing Covid travel restrictions, there’s no better time to start planning your next Aussie getaway.
Once a haven for the chilled-out surfers, the famous northern NSW beachside town of Byron Bay of today bears little resemblance to its hippy heyday.
Skyrocketing real estate prices, overcrowded beaches, raucous backpackers, bumper-to-bumper traffic, and expensive, scarce parking makes blissing out in this former utopia much harder than it once was.
But fear not, while Byron may have changed, there’s a few other nearby destinations that offer no crowds, killer attractions, and back-to-basics serenity. So, when restrictions ease and we can all enjoy the road again, leave Byron behind and visit these hot spots on the same stretch of gorgeous coast that are competing to take its crown …
YAMBA
First cab off the rank is Yamba.
Spectacular beaches, funky cafes, fabulous seafood and perfect waves — and just under and an hour and a half’s drive from Byron. Yamba has long been a favourite with surfers, but this seaside town is now truly coming into its own.
Summer ambience abounds throughout the year, the locals are friendly, the food scene is burgeoning and an influx of ex-city folk have transformed the town from its humble origins into a destination for food-lovers, creatives and, increasingly, holiday-makers.
Unlike Byron, in Yamba there’s more pristine, deserted beaches than you can shake a stick at — 11 of them, in fact.
BRUNSWICK HEADS, NSW
If you veer 18 kilometres (or 20 minutes) beyond the Hemsworths’, and the tourist traffic of Byron you’ll get a glimpse of the town’s hippy heyday in the seaside village of Brunswick Heads.
Still firmly embracing its counterculture roots, the picturesque getaway has a population of friendly, easygoing, surfboard carrying, locals (and visitors) skipping between crowd-free beaches and a bevy of organic local foodie haunts.
Brunswick — or ‘Bruns’ to locals — is everything that modern-day Byron Bay is not. Genuinely laid-back, quiet, and all about simple (and inexpensive) pleasures. However, just like Byron, you’ll find great surf beaches, gorgeous coastal scenery, and yummy eats. Speaking of, two standouts include cafe, wine bar, and deli combined, Honour.
Set opposite the lagoon, this all-rounder of a venue serves great coffee and brekky in the morning and then European-style aperitivo, cheese, and salumi at lunchtime and evening with charcuterie plates and natural wines taking centre stage.
While at Mexican restaurant, La Casita, you can expect a bustling, fun crowd, and a tasty menu of margaritas, snacks including more-ish jalapeños stuffed with pork sausage and cheese, and expertly prepared tacos (of the gourmet variety) served to a soundtrack of lively Latin beats.
When it comes to places to stay, the Chalet Motel is your go-to. A 60s-era motel reincarnated into a slick Palm Springs-inspired hangout, the boutique check-in is a stone’s throw from the beach and an easy walk into town. Comprising 12 stylish ensuite motel rooms and slick central outdoor cabana with BBQ area and saltwater swimming pool, the friendly, casual (and affordable) property also offers free bikes and is dog friendly to boot.
MULLUMBIMBY
Jump in your car and head inland, and you’ll reach the small town of Mullumbimby. It’s here where Byron’s hippies of yesteryear decamped in search of a quieter pace of life. Today the pretty hinterland hood still firmly embraces its counterculture roots with a boho fusion of organic cafes, vintage stores and alternative healing centres. In this spirit, make sure to visit the amazing Crystal Castle en route.
A reflection of one man’s lifetime passion for crystals, this is one of the top attractions in the area — and for good reason. Its sprawling gardens — that offer amazing views across the hinterland — are filled with gigantic Hindu and Buddhist statues, and a collection of, quite literally, the biggest crystals in the entire world. It’s easily one of the most peaceful places in the vicinity. Plus, there’s a great cafe on site and daily meditation and singing bowl sessions.
Time your visit well and you’ll be able to visit the Friday morning Mullum Farmers Markets. Voted one of the best farmers’ markets in Australia, the markets are set against the a backdrop of Mt Chincogan and the friendly, folk-y vibe is when you’ll see the town at its most colourful. You can load up on organic produce and enjoy a market-made brekky or coffee. However, for the best brunch in town, head to Punch and Daisy. In keeping with the town’s alternative ethos, expect yummy superfood-packed salads, locally produced kombucha and locally roasted coffee, and a menu packed with a brunch menu that easily rivals the best cafes in Sydney.
But the absolute ‘don’t miss’ attraction here is Kiva Spa. Known to locals and a select number of visitors, this literal oasis is nestled in a bamboo grove hidden down a quiet laneway and is comprised of outdoor bubbling hot tubs, cold plunge pools, Hammam-style steam room, and gorgeous wood-fired sauna, which combined makes for a blissful few hours.
MURWILLUMBAH
Drive 40 minutes north, veer inland a bit, and you’ll reach Murwillumbah. An area on the stunning Tweed River in the shade of the North Coast’s tallest mountain, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Mt Warning. In this fertile food bowl you can visit one of the most lauded distilleries in the country, Husk Distillery.
Makers of the famous Ink Gin, the family-run operation is also Australia’s only single estate rum distillery. You can enjoy a slap up lunch and cocktail in the cellar door and
join one of the daily behind-the-scenes tours, which includes a G & T and rum tasting, to learn the process of making the award-winning spirits from paddock to bottle.
Speaking of paddocks, Mt Warning Estate offers amazing cabin accommodation right in the middle of a 300-acre working farm. Formerly a dairy, the now luxe cabin combines touches of yesteryear with all the mod cons you expect in a 5 star hotel.
Wake to the dawn and the sound of birdsong, and stargaze by a roaring fire pit, walk the Bush Tucker Garden, feed the resident cows, retreat indoors to cosy up by a wood-turning stove that also doubles as a pizza oven, or relax in the spacious outdoor bathtub for a long indulgent soak as you take in views across to the looming Mt Warning. For anyone looking to counteract lockdown fatigue with an immersion in nature, this is the place.
KINGSCLIFF
Even further north (30 minutes to be precise) and you’ll reach Tweed Heads. Nicknamed the Twin Town because of its proximity to Coolangatta just across the border into Queensland, the wealth of natural attractions around the main town makes it worthy of at least a day trip.
Long overshadowed by its more famous neighbour, Tweed Heads is one of the state’s most under-the-radar destinations, not least because of its uncrowded beaches, and stretches of some of the oldest subtropical rainforest left on earth.
Then there’s the pinnacle of wildlife encounters in the Cook Island Aquatic Reserve just off Kingscliff, a popular beach holiday town a short drive south of Tweed Heads. Here, Watersports Guru take visitors for an eye-to-eye encounter with a cornucopia of marine life, including leopard and grey nurse sharks, dolphins, manta rays, and turtles. Lots of turtles!
The rocky reefs and coral gardens of this protected zone are home to three of the world’s seven species of sea turtles – hawksbills, loggerheads and the more common greens. Some of them more than 100 years old. It’s an Attenborough-esque encounter that’s truly unforgettable.
Another standout natural attraction here — and one within viewing distance from the turtle colony — is Fingal Head.
While everyone has heard of Northern Ireland’s World Heritage-listed Giant’s Causeway, most people don’t realise that Australia has its very own equivalent. Just like Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, the ancient hexagonal-shaped basalt rock pillars showcase the head-scratching majesty of Mother Nature at her finest.
CYRSTALBROOK BYRON
OK just one little place in Byron to include – although the resort isn’t obviously a town, it is worthy of being a destination in itself. Despite being a mere 10 minutes from Byron’s town centre, its idyllic, subtropical rainforest setting makes it seem an absolute world away.
With a decades-old reputation for spirituality and clean living, Byron Bay has long been luring serenity seekers from all over the world. Here, juice bars jostle for space with yoga studios, but serious serenity-seekers need to make a beeline for a getaway that pairs luxe facilities with serious R & R.
Set across 45-acres of magical rainforest, Crystalbrook Byron offers daily inclusive yoga classes, in addition to regular retreats throughout the year. Wellness warriors can get their fix in the seriously Instagrammable outdoor pool, fully equipped gym, afore mentioned yoga pavilion and spa with its comprehensive menu of options using all-natural beauty products, plus infra-red sauna.
To refuel afterwards, in-house eatery, Forest, enjoys a position next to the rainforest oasis and serves a seasonal menu that celebrates the best of Byron’s local farmers, growers and artisans.
With its spacious setting, day spa, infinity pool, restaurant, gym and rainforest boardwalks, you may never want — or need — to leave!
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