Riding the rails in style: The Canadian Rockies from the tracks

SETTING foot on the iconic Canadian Rocky Mountaineer train proves the romanticism of rail travel is far from dead.

A train ride with a difference. Picture: Charlotte Willis

I'M NOT usually one to sit back and take in the sights of a foreign destination while reclining in the lap of luxury. In fact, I'm not accustomed to holidaying in style at all.

My travel experiences to date bear the trademarks of a budget holiday-maker - low-cost airlines, grubby backpacks, 12-man dorm rooms, local roadside delicacies and cheap vodka. But perched on the vestibule with the wind flying through my hair and the vast landscape of the Canadian Rockies unfolding as we chug gently at slow speed, it's clear I have been missing out. Certainly, train travel is one way to see the world. Travel, once a romantic affair involving slow boats and grand carriages, steamer trunks and hustling porters, fancy dress and snail mail, has melted away with the immediacy of our fast-paced lives and constant need for speed. Yet, setting foot on board the iconic Rocky Mountaineer and I am swiftly reminded that the romanticism of rail travel is far from dead. This particular Coastal Passage route is the inaugural run across the border from Seattle to Vancouver en route to Jasper, via Kamloops. I'm instantly overcome by the old-school elegance of the shining blue and gold train - like something from Platform 9 3/4. The double decker coach with domed windows even allows us panoramic views at every turn of the tracks. The restaurant carriage down below is the epitome of fine dining, decked out with crisp white linen table cloths, silver cutlery and glassware - not to mention three-course à la carte meals made with fresh local produce and regional wines. For seafood lovers, you're right in the heart of sockeye salmon territory. Departing from Seattle's historic King Street Station, we take in the sparkling coastal shorelines of the Pacific North West, weaving our way through small coastal towns. It's an impressive sight for the locals as well, and they wave madly from the shore. It's luxury all the way on board. Picture: Charlotte Willis Champas in hand, we pass through the Cascade Mountains before crossing the border and rolling into Vancouver at dusk. The sunset on the water is enough to make even the manliest among us let out a sigh. The entire journey takes place during daylight hours so as not to miss a square inch of countryside. There are no sleeper cars, so we all stay in hotels overnight, but this just means we get to partake in the somewhat royal affair of departing from La Gare Centrale du Pacifique at daybreak. From Vancouver the swift rig carries all 497 passengers on board into the heart of British Columbia. After a full day of travelling, the sprawling landscape of Canada's only semi-arid desert eventually leads to a railway crossing of the North Thompson River, bringing us to Kamloops. Here, we pull up stumps for another night. The stunning Canadian landscape. Picture: Charlotte Willis Our final leg is the 450km to Jasper, Alberta, and we're told we're heading into prime bear territory. Faces are pinned to the glass in the hopes of spotting a black bear, or better yet, a grizzly. Unfortunately our elusive furry friends are too good at this game of hide-and-seek today. We are lucky enough to catch plenty of other wildlife though - beaver lodges, white-tailed deer, bighorn sheep and even the odd mountain goat. Disembarking in the quaint town of Jasper, it's like gazing at an impossibly perfect postcard. The National Park - a World Heritage Site - frames the metropolis so magically that I can hardly wait to explore downtown Jasper. Still, I can't help but feel a slight pang of sadness as I see the Rocky Mountaineer begin to thread into the hillside. It reminds you that travel can be romantic. Picture: Charlotte Willis Some say experiencing scenic rail travel for the first time is a bit like falling in love. You're filled with butterflies and at that exact moment the entire world seems just right. For me, the seduction of the train-hopping life has stolen my heart and I know that from now on, cheap and cheerful transport will be a bumpy ride indeed. Rocky Mountaineer is the largest privately owned passenger rail service in North America and has welcomed more than one and a half million guests on board from round the world since its inception in 1990. The writer travelled courtesy of the Rocky Mountaineer. Photos taken by Canon Powershot N. Near Mount Fitzwilliam. Picture: Supplied Deal: Rocky Mountaineer Early Booking Bonus for 2014 From now until October 31, 2013, GoldLeaf Service bookings of seven nights or more receive CAD$1,200 ($1238) per couple in added value. The bonus credit further enhances Rocky Mountaineer holidays by adding options such as an Alaskan cruise, additional hotel nights, sightseeing tours or a Whistler Sea to Sky Climb rail journey. The Early Booking Bonus is only valid on new 2014 bookings, made from now until October 31, 2013 with full payment by December 6, 2013. For more information visit: www.rockymountaineer.com It's an unforgettable trip. Picture: Charlotte Willis