Feast on Port Douglas's tropical delights

IN PORT Douglas, the food is fine and the setting spectacular, writes Alison Cotes.

coconut grove

YOU don't have to be a serious gourmet to visit Port Douglas, but if you're there from May 17-26 , you'll think you've died and gone to heaven.

Next month Port Douglas will host its annual Carnivale, which sets out to be the tropical north Queensland equivalent of the Noosa Food and Wine Festival, and will set your taste buds dancing.

At a recent preview of the festival a few weeks ago, I overate to the extent that at times I just gave up and retired to my airconditioned hotel room at the new Coconut Grove Apartments with some dry biscuits and cheese.

But even if food festivals aren't your cup of exotic cocktail, Port Douglas has so much going for it that it's a destination delight in its own right.

You may want to wait until the wet season is over, as almost none of the cafes and restaurants are airconditioned.

"We prefer to eat alfresco," the person at the Information Office told me. Well, alfresco is one thing but sweating into your mango and barramundi salad is another, so be warned.

As far as I'm concerned, though, Port Douglas is to Cairns as Mooloolaba is to Noosa - quieter, fewer tourists, much less in your face but with offerings just as good.

My hotel was a case in point. There are so many 5-star resorts dotted along Christopher Skase's palm-fringed road in from the Captain Cook Highway that it's hard to tell them apart, much less to choose, and you do need a car to get into Port itself. But the Coconut Grove Apartments are right in town in the main drag, and an easy walk (on a day when the humidity is less than 90 per cent) to some of the most fun shops, fine restaurants and the Sunday markets. A short bus trip will take you to the famous Marina, which offers more shops and fine dining but is also the jumping off point for Barrier Reef adventures.

I loved this hotel, because it's quiet, elegant and not ostentatious. It has quiet, child-free lap pools running the length of the building, private undercover barbecue areas for the best suites, and fittings of the highest quality. In fact, it was always a relief to go back to after the steamy heat of the main street.

We went to the Iron Bar for dinner one night and bet on the cane toad races (mine had a toffy-looking blue ribbon and sat there like a stunned mullet after the lid was taken off the contestants). We strolled the Sunday markets at Anzac Park with barefoot aplomb, indulging in sugar cane and fresh lime juice, a Thai foot massage, and some necessary purchases of a cold-gel neck wrap and a hand-made bracelet of cold clay beads.

We got our fauna fix at the nearby Hartley's Crocodile Adventures where, even though I've seen enough crocs to last me a lifetime, I was very impressed by the cruise on their private lagoon where some angry beasties were snapping at the dead chooks hung over the edge of the boat. It was reminder to never want to get too close.

One of the highlights of Port Douglas is always a trip to the Reef, and this time we went with Aquarius to the Low Isles for a day of cruising in an ocean calm enough even for my sensitive disposition. The snorkeling was like being in Wonderland.

What else do you want? Espresso daiquiris? Hot raspberry souffles? Or just fish and chips on Heritage-listed Sugar Wharf at sunset while waiting for the fish to bite? The choice is yours, and whether you want to mix it with the foodies in May or just take your own time about it, put Port Douglas on your list for a perfect autumn/winter holiday in the tropics.

The writer was the guest of Tourism Port Douglas and Daintree.

Go2 - Port Douglas

Getting there: Port Douglas is an hour north of Cairns. Take the turn-off right from the Captain Cook Highway. There are up to 13 flights a day from Brisbane to Cairns (two-hour flight). Transfer from Cairns Airport by bus, taxi or limousine, or hire a car at Cairns Airport. By road, the trip is 1800km from Brisbane (about 22 hours).

Staying there: Coconut Grove Apartments, 56 Macrossan St, Port Douglas, ph 4099 0600, email [e-mail]. Rates from $325 a night (one-bedroom apartment). Check website for other rates and special packages.

Doing there: Fine dining (especially Salsa, Harrison's, Sea Temple Resort and Spa, Lure at the Marina); Barrier Reef adventures (Aquarius Low Isles); Hartley's Crocodile Adventures; eclectic Sunday markets at Anzac Park (8am-1.30pm); cane toad races at the Iron Bar in Macrossan St from 8pm nightly; trips to the Daintree and Mossman Gorge (check with the Information Centre in Macrossan St); Breakfast with the Birds at Wildlife Habitat.

More info: For Carnivale, see carnivale.com.au.

For Port Douglas, see visitportdouglasdaintree.com

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