Be enchanted by Methven's mountain magic in New Zealand

FOR some great-value family fun, head for the slopes near the New Zealand South Island town of Methven, writes John Flint.

snowboarder

THE Land of the Big White Cloud is, for most Australian visitors, one long white-knuckle adventure ride.

But you'd be surprised what those canny Kiwis do to turn everyday couch potatoes into all-weather mountain gods.

It's not just that clean alpine air that plays pied piper to our inner-action man or woman.

No, the secret formula is man-made. Putting in a hard shift on the ski slopes or kayaking down white water is self-defence against all the sumptuous meals and desserts that make spending any time in New Zealand a perilous assault on your waistline.

I'd toured the South Island in 1994 as a backpacker and its mesmerising natural beauty had stayed with me.

The surprise going back - with a young family in tow - was the sensational food.

It has never been cheaper for Australians to reach the South Island. And you can do so knowing you're doing a good turn for a tourism industry suffering in the wake of Christchurch's killer earthquake last February. A few big aftershocks haven't helped the locals either.

Christchurch's stoic mayor Bob Parker has implored Australians to assist by simply visiting for a holiday. If tourists don't feel comfortable spending lots of time in Christchurch itself, they can fly in, grab a hire car and venture south.

Christchurch is the gateway to the South Island, which is 99 per cent earthquake free.

With my kids aged 10 and five, I figured it was the right time to introduce them to snow.

But with so many good ski fields throughout the island, where was the best base?

The locals have stumbled on this handy comparison to help Australians choose. If you want the Gold Coast experience - parties, shopping and more parties - head to Queenstown. If you want the more rustic and wholesome Byron Bay-style atmosphere, point your car in the direction of Mt Hutt. And if upmarket Noosa is more your style, then Wanaka it is.

We decided we wanted to sample Mt Hutt before heading to Queenstown on roads that make driving a near-religious experience, with heavenly vistas around every glorious bend.

Methven is the base for Mt Hutt skiers. It's a rural town at the edge of the Canterbury Plains, where the foothills head sharply upwards to become the Southern Alps. While you won't find any nightclubs in family-friendly Methven, it is amply covered in dining and accommodation options.

We stayed at Brinkley Village Resort, which has 80 self-contained apartments and studios, and includes a spa pool area, a floodlit tennis court and children's playground. Our studio was just the ticket: clean and homely with a DVD player and flat-screen TV for all those movies we brought along.

Those who want to spoil themselves can stay at the 5-star Terrace Downs High Country resort and get a helicopter up to the slopes each morning. The five-minute heli-taxi service between the resort and the car park at the Mt Hutt ski area costs $85 a person, each way. Terrace Downs also boasts New Zealand's leading golf course and attracts a lot of casual visitors for dinner or lunch at its top-notch eateries.

Mt Hutt gets more snow than other ski areas in the South Island, which means it is usually open for one month longer than the rest.

Mt Hutt has just celebrated its second major snowfall in two weeks. A cold snap and snowstorm over the weekend delivered 20cm of snow over the entire mountain.

Mt Hutt operations general manager James Urquhart said snow had settled "absolutely everywhere" on the mountain as there had been no wind at the ski area.

"After our snowfall a couple of weeks ago it's looking superb once again, and our head of snowmaking Blair James just couldn't resist heading up the hill for some product testing," he said.

Mt Hutt is scheduled to open for this year's winter season on June 15.

One aspect that doesn't get much attention in the Mt Hutt promotional blurb is the narrow road that winds up to the ski field. OK, it's not quite from the World's Deadliest Roads, but if I collected $5 for every time my hyper-ventilating wife urged me to slow down - I was only doing 20km/h - I'd be able to buy the mountain.

Our kids were booked in for beginners' classes with the Kea Club, named after the native parrots that are easy to spot at Mt Hutt, especially loitering around the carpark.

This year, children aged 10 and under ski for free, but unless they're already competent skiers you'll want to get them into ski or snowboard classes, which cost $NZ95 ($A79) for a full day, including lunch.

By day three they should be off the beginner slopes and heading up the mountain on one of the chair lifts. Classes start at 10am so leave Methven no later than 8.30am to give you ample time.

My wife checked in for adult beginner classes on our first morning, while I did a morning refresher class for intermediate to advanced skiers. Having re-acquainted my leg muscles with the sport, the entire mountain was my playground for the next three days. Mt Hutt has a broad range of terrain from easy to extreme. The views south from the top are sensational.

As part of the Kids 4 Free promotion, selected accommodation providers in Methven are providing free accommodation for children aged 10 and under. Similar free meal deals and ski gear hire are also offered, making Methven even better value for families. For more details, see kids4free.co.nz

A big part of the skiing experience is a well-deserved beer or glass of wine at the end of the day. Huber's Hutt brasserie, next to the Sky High Cafe, is a great spot and has a happy hour between 2.30pm and 3.30pm daily. If you're fussy about good coffee, forget about the cafe and go straight to Huber's Hutt. If you're around on a Saturday, you can go up to the mountain at night for an evening meal under the stars with kids' activities thrown in, including groomer, skidoo and husky dog rides or tubing. Transport is provided and must be taken as the Mt Hutt access road is not available for public use after dark.

The Mt Hutt ski lift pass can also be used at Queenstown's Coronet Peak and The Remarkables, which are all operated by the same company, NZski. The Mypass card is simple to use. Load up however many days you want to ski for - this can be done online before you leave home - and put the card in your ski jacket pocket. The gates to the chair lifts will open automatically as you pass through.

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