Sanctuary delivers on bliss

AN exclusive sanctuary styled on Bali's high-end resorts in Port Douglas delivers on the necessary luxuries for Tracey Ferrier.

AHHHH .... lifestyles of the rich and famous.

The simple fact of the matter is I've always aspired to both. But as the Rolling Stones song goes, you can't always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need.

And sometimes - just sometimes - you don't even have to try.

So it was that my eyes glazed over and my head filled with thoughts of sipping Moet poolside as I opened an unsolicited invitation to indulge myself (my favourite concept) at the new jewel in Port Douglas's crown.

For what Pepper Balé in far north Queensland's most famous town, Port Douglas, was offering sounded exactly like what I most needed on that dreary Sydney Monday.

An exclusive resort styled on Bali's high-end resorts, the promise of an environment that would allow me to recline in the harmonious equilibrium created by blending the natural beauty of Queensland's tropical north with all the comforts a creature like me considers necessary to sustain life.

Within days, I was jetting my way north from the Sydney rat race, off to play in a town that sees more celebrity guests each year than the Cannes film festival. Well almost. If Port Douglas was good enough for Mick Jagger, it's good enough for me.

After a stunning, hour-long coastal drive north from Cairns, we reach reception where a chilled glass of wheatgrass and tropical juices was pressed into my hand. Moments later a golf cart was carrying us through the exotic tropical gardens en route not to our room, not even to our villa ... but to our sanctuary.

Serenity in sanctuary

The word fluttered around my mind like a beautiful butterfly, conjuring up myriad expectations. Quiet serenity, luxury, all my needs met before I even know what they are. Would I get there and decide never to return to my job and house in Sydney, my family and friends, my cats?

Well I must admit, this crossed my mind as I slipped off my shoes at the threshold to this divine place, and padded across smooth stepping stones set into a goldfish-stocked pond.

There in the central courtyard, my frantic Sydney brain was immediately lulled by the sound of gently flowing water, strains of music, and the occasional waft of incense floating through the lavish space.

There's three wings no less - living, master bedroom and divine bathroom, and two other bedrooms and a second bathroom. In hindsight, if I'd only packed the family, friends and cats there really wouldn't have been any need to return to Sydney.

"We've really strived to create an environment here where guests spend a lot of time in their sanctuary," Peppers Balé general manager Alan Porteous explains.

Early indications suggest success - the resort opened in May last year.

"Our first guests here were American honeymooners," Porteous says. "They did not step outside of their sanctuary for four days. They were only here for five. Room service went in, spa services went in. Everything went in. They just didn't see the need to leave."

I had the same problem. With a temperature-controlled private plunge-pool and cabana a mere 20 steps from my expansive king-sized bed, I didn't even make it to the inviting pool around which the resort's bar and restaurant are set.

"It's such a beautiful pool, but there's never anyone in it," Porteous says. "I guess that means we got the designs of the sanctuaries just right."

I'd had grand plans of seeing all the sights of Port Douglas and surrounds. Having lived 20 minutes up the road in the cane farming town of Mossman years ago, I was anxious to see how the place had changed. But with just two nights to live the life of luxury, we managed only a single brief foray into the town.

Exploring Port Douglas

But for those who do like a little more activity, there is plenty to do. Port, as the locals call it, is perfectly positioned for visitors to make the most of the Great Barrier Reef. The outer reef, with its magnificent dive spots, is a couple of hours by boat off shore (or chopper, which the Peppers staff will gladly arrange).

And to the north lies the pristine Daintree rainforest and the spectacular Mossman Gorge, whose Aboriginal custodians consider sacred and who offer guided walks of this magical setting.

Port itself is as funky as it was a decade ago. While there's been a significant amount of building activity, mostly in the form of new accommodation, the main street has kept its eclectic feel. You can still buy tie-died yoga pants, knitted beanies and Jesus sandals, but you can also buy fine Aboriginal art, sculptures and paintings by local artists. And yes the coffee is good - that much has changed for the better.

What you won't find are any McDonald's or KFC outlets. The conservation-minded Douglas Shire Council has fought numerous battles to keep such enterprises out of the town, firm in the belief that they would ruin its unique appeal.

Despite the lure of our sanctuary calling us back, we did find time to while away an hour or so at that greatest of Port establishments The Court House Hotel, where you can listen to live music while staring wistfully over Dickson's Inlet and the picturesque St Mary's By the Sea church, with its pitched roof and steeple.

On Sundays, the local craft and food market is a must. Artists offer a broad and eclectic range, from homewares to paintings - a sight for sore eyes that breaks the tacky mould of nearby Cairns' tourist stores.

Fresh tropical fruit stalls are great to sample produce you won't find in the cities, unless you know exactly where to look. And local chefs offer an interesting mix of preserves and other treats made with Far North ingredients that'll give your next dinner party that certain special something.

Smooth soothing rituals

But ahhh ... back to the sanctuary and hmmm, a massage I think. The menu of indulgences at the Peppers Balé spa is long and varied, but the best has to be the Intimate Moments interlude for couples.

The ritual begins with an aromatic jasmine and frangipani bath, followed by a massage. A light cuisine snack is served with champagne, before the finishing touch - a divine foot treatment.

As my relaxed body wafted back to my abode, my mind turned to food, and in particular the delights of the renowned chef Tony Sassi, whose third Port Douglas incarnation is the inhouse restaurant at Peppers.

And while his food is exceptional (think delicious twists such as parmesan icecream mousse served with crusty bread and pesto and pomegranate) what impressed me most was the impromptu performance of O Sole Mio, as the man himself came swanning down the stairs, microphone in hand to serenade his guests as they consumed his delicious fare.

All too soon the time came for us to pack our bags and climb back aboard the golf cart (the resort is nestled at a respectful distance around the 13th hole of the nearby Sheraton Mirage golf course). We bade a sad but grateful farewell to our sanctuary, but knew we'd be back.

The writer was a guest of Peppers Balé Resort.