Renaissance Bali Uluwatu: The side of Bali they don’t tell you about

THOUGHT Bali was all about bogan Aussies, Bintang and blistering sunburn? Turns out most of us have been doing it wrong.

IT’S about 6.30pm when I walk into the beach club to a scene I haven’t witnessed since crashing a college party in first-year uni.

Only instead of privileged country kids let loose from their parents leashes for the first time, it’s a group of well-to-do men having tequila poured down their throats straight from the bottle by a bouncy barmaid.

When we’re seated at a table after a quick tour of the club — filled with flashing laser lights, enthusiastic dancing and people drying themselves off after a swim in the club’s pool overlooked by the DJ booth — a hostess gives each of our group one of everything and chants “get drunk, get drunk”.

This is closer to the Bali I had heard of, but not the one I was expecting.

We’re at the grand opening of Roosterfish Beach Club, a brand new party spot that’s part of the Marriott-owned five-star Renaissance Bali Uluwatu Resort & Spa.

The resort, set back from cliffs and overlooking miles of pristine coastline, is only a 20-minute shuttle bus ride away, but it may as well be another world.

THE OTHER SIDE OF BALI

While many Aussies’ initiation to Indonesia includes body shots and Bintang singlets during schoolies week on the island’s infamous Kuta beach, my introduction to Australia’s favourite holiday destination was far more civilised.

Past the busy traffic and by the fast-food restaurants that shrink to boutique bars and street stalls the further you get from bustling Denpasar, there’s a tranquility to the island that makes it feel like the place is one big health retreat.

The scenery switches to dense rainforest leading out to a rocky cliff coastline from which spills still, glittering ocean. The humidity somehow feels lighter. The air is clear.

Arriving at the Renaissance Uluwatu, through the open lobby there is a stunning view of the lush lands of Bali’s Bukit peninsula and the pink and orange sunset is perfectly reflected on the Indian Ocean.

The main pool at sunset. Picture: Marriott International

The hotel's lobby opens to a sweeping view of lush greenery and sparkling ocean. Picture: Marriott International

The building itself, its design inspired by the local leatherback turtle, feels like an extension of its surrounds. Time seems to move more slowly than it did closer to the island’s centre when our van was jostling for roadspace with a dozen surrounding scooters. Everything feels relaxed and a little luxurious. This is the Bali I came for.

After a welcome drink and a mazelike journey to my suite room which involves three elevator rides - the only downside to the stay if you really want to nitpick - I’m instantly convinced remembering which buttons to push on each of those elevator journeys is worth it.

Every facet of the hotel - as all Renaissance properties aim to - is designed to reflect its peaceful surrounds and also perfectly complements them.

The room is welcoming and open. The oversized tub in my suite feels like it’s somehow been designed to precisely accommodate my body and offers the perfect vantage point to take in the surrounds of the lush green Bukit.

It would be easy to spend the night and following days here if the outside offerings weren’t also enticing.

That tub. That view. Picture: Marriott International

NAVIGATING PARADISE

Boasting two separate, stunning pools, a spa where I was treated to one of the most relaxing massages of my life, and two restaurants which are, incredibly, willing to let guests in on their secrets by offering Indonesian cooking classes, this is resort you just don’t want to leave.

That is of course an option. There’s a pottery class on offer during which guests can attempt to recreate the stunning clay craft which all the restaurants and bars’ offerings are served on, and nightly entertainment at the hotel’s many stunning outdoor spaces where you can party, or relax, under the stars. There’s even a traditional temple onsite for your culture fix and the hotel’s gym even boasts a view that could convince even the most relaxed holiday-maker to break a sweat.

But despite all this it’s worth leaving to discover more.

Uluwatu is one of those places where you need local knowledge. Don’t bother wandering the streets looking for an Instagram-worthy location - the gems are truly well hidden.

Luckily, the resort’s resident Navigator - a role which takes what might traditionally be called a concierge’s services to the next level and also happens to be my new dream job - is prepped with local knowledge and recommendations.

Like a concierge, but actually your new dream job. Picture: Marriott International

Features of the hotel are designed to reflect its surrounds. Picture: Marriott International

A short drive from the resort, the navigator leads our group from a not-at-all-noteworthy car park down a rocky driveway and through some shrubs. This opens to a descending path leading down to a white sandy shore, and suddenly we’re on Tegal Wangi Beach - one of the most stunning cliff-surrounded beaches stretches of coast I’ve come across.

Looking out to the postcard-worthy view, we’re treated to a traditional breakfast of nasi-jingo - a steaming, spicy chicken and noodle dish wrapped in banana leaf.

There are other stops at a local organic farm, a beautiful family-owned restaurant for a traditional Indonesian feast, and of course pop into shops for some bargain hunting.

Food? Tick. Culture? tick. Scenery? tick. That Instagram shot you came for? All found thanks to our trusty navigator.

It turns out there is more to Bali than bartering, beers, and blistering sunburn. But if you want a taste of that too, it’s only a shuttle ride away.

The writer travelled as a guest of Marriott International.