Bath, you're soaking in it

THE much-anticipated Thermae Bath Spa, in England's ancient town of Roman baths, has finally opened its gleaming glass doors. Tricia Welsh pays a visit.

Mediating ... the sun does shine

SEAGULLS nest in nearby chimney pots, sheep graze the lush, undulating fields that roll up to the woods on the surrounding hills, and ordered rows of gabled Georgian houses stretch away to the distance in all directions.

I absorb this peaceful scene – along with the water's 42 health-giving minerals – as I float in a cushion of tepid turquoise foam that is the stunning rooftop pool of the Thermae Bath Spa in the ancient town of Bath in south-west England.

The much-anticipated project finally opened its gleaming glass doors to paying guests in August, three years after the planned date and at a slightly embarrassing cost of 45 million pounds – more than treble the original budget.

Just when the project was launched in 2003 with an open-air concert by the Three Tenors in the city's majestic semi-circular Royal Crescent, supposedly waterproof paint was noticed to be peeling off.

The discovery caused a prolonged stalemate that took the next three years to correct, with architects blaming poor workmanship, and contractors blaming poor specifications.

Things were further delayed when a pair of mallard ducks laid half a dozen eggs on the site.

Hence the recent official opening was marked more with a gentle sigh than a triumphant fanfare.

But at last the people of Bath and those wishing to "take the waters" in the true tradition of European spas now have a new facility that, with its natural thermal spring waters, is the only one of its kind in the UK.

The modern facility revives a spa culture that began nearly 2000 years ago in 49AD when the Romans discovered natural therapeutic water from three hot springs directly under the city. Elder statesmen and soldiers recuperating from military campaigns soothed their wounds in the waters at Aquae Sulis, dedicated to the goddess Sulis Minerva.

Like the Celts before them, the Romans believed the healing waters to be sacred and particularly revered the site of the old Cross Bath.

The city's ancient spa facilities and perfect Palladian-style architecture has helped designate it a World Heritage Site.

The new complex, designed by noted architect Sir Nicholas Grimshaw, incorporates several buildings that date from medieval, Georgian, Victorian and even Roman times.

Located between Bath and Beau streets, it's 100m from the original Roman baths in the centre of town, the two being connected by the grand, colonnaded Bath St.

The Thermae Bath Spa still draws on the natural springs that produce more than a million litres of thermal spring water a day – at an average temperature of 46C.

Glass bridges cleverly link the old with the new – with no pretension to "fudge" new into old. The lines of distinction are clear, allowing the observer to appreciate both.

An integral facility is the restored 18th century Hot Bath where a dozen well-equipped treatment rooms for physiotherapy, hydrotherapy, acupuncture and massage surround a central octagonal hot pool.

Treatments include a Cleopatra Bath, a Chardonnay Bath, a Moroccan Cocoon with Rasoul, a Green Coffee Wrap and an Alpine Hay Bath.

The nearby historic, sacred Cross Bath has been restored as a working spa for bathing, with special facilities for the disabled and access rights for local residents.

Across the road, the old Hetling Pump House, established in the 18th century as one of a number of pump rooms where people could drink spring water from the Hetling spring, is now a visitors' centre.

But the main focus is the new spa building – a huge cube clad in Bath stone and encased in an outer skin of industrial glass.

On the lower level is the large thermal Minerva Bath with whirlpool and four pillars that become a feature throughout the building.

On the next floor, a luxurious steam room houses four circular glass pods, each seating about 20 and infused with essential oils such as pine, jasmine, eucalyptus and lavender.

The focal point is a central refreshing waterfall shower with fibre-optic lights that create a space-age effect.

On other floors, there are more treatment rooms including twin-facilities and a central area for yoga, meditation and Pilates, change rooms, a retail shop for spa products, a restaurant for spa guests only.

The piece de resistance is the open-air rooftop pool and terrace, with neck-massage jet and submerged air beds and spectacular, chimney-top views over the city.

The complex can take 250 visitors a day for either a two- or four-hour stint or, indeed, a whole day. Entry includes access to all facilities except massage, solarium and treatments.

The Sunday Telegraph