Lonely Planet's guide to New York

NEW York is much more than the gateway to opportunity - it's a city of triumph, a capital of exploration and experimentation, a place where you are truly free to be yourself.

Escape New York Lonely Planet

NEW York is much more than the gateway to opportunity - it's a city of triumph, a capital of exploration and experimentation, a place where you are truly free to be yourself.

Let me entertain you

From the chorus lines of Broadway down to the grungy cabarets of the Village, it's practically impossible to swing a dance belt without hitting a comedy club, jazz lounge or offbeat theatre.

And beyond the scope of live acts lurks an electric world of art and artefact housed in world-class museums of encyclopedic proportions and up-and-coming galleries showcasing relevant creators.

So set your expectations as high as the skyscrapers and you'll quickly uncover myriad brilliant moments of sensory overload far beyond the twinkling lights of NYC's tourism poster child, Times Square.

Take a bite of the Big Apple

The Big Apple is, more than anything else, a wildly diverse urban ecosystem, and there's no better way to access the city's cornucopia of cultures than through the dinner plate. NYC's eating scene is a parade of superlatives culminating in a constellation of Michelin stars. From the Caribbean kitchens in Harlem to modern iterations of new American comfort cuisine downtown, New York offers an endless stream of opportunities to stamp your palate's passport.

Time and trends

With topics that trend faster than a Twitter feed, New York City always seems to have its finger on the pulse, making it one of the most progressive and innovative pinpoints on the globe. In this land of perpendicular gridiron you can get anything at any time, from the latest couture from the Parisian runways to the most ergonomic lounge chairs from the design ateliers of Tokyo.

Sand passes through the hourglass much faster here  -  change is constantly afoot, as locals hunt down the latest and greatest with alacrity only to shift gears the following week in search of the next big hit. They don't call it a "New York Minute" for nothin'! 

                                                                --- The Top 5 ---

-- Central Park

London has Hyde Park. Paris has the Bois de Boulogne. And New York City has Central Park (centralparknyc.org).

One of the world's most renowned green spaces, it checks in with 340ha of rolling meadows, boulder-studded outcrops, elm-lined walkways, manicured European-style gardens, a lake and a reservoir  -  not to mention an outdoor theatre, a memorial to John Lennon, an idyllic waterside eatery (the Loeb Boathouse) and one very famous statue of Alice in Wonderland.

The big challenge? Figuring out where to begin.

-- Skyscrapers

New York City has plenty of skyscrapers in every shape and size, from the imposingly elegant Chrysler Building to the iconic Empire State Building (esbnyc.com) and dainty facade of the Flatiron Building.

And while staring into the city's infinite abyss of twinkling lights from atop a skyscraper ranks high on everyone's to-do list, we often prefer those quintessential New York moments down on the street when the crown of a soaring spire winks hello amid honking taxis in the early evening.

-- Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island

Since its unveiling in 1886, Lady Liberty (nps.gov/stli) has welcomed millions of immigrants sailing into New York Harbour in the hope of a better life. It now welcomes millions of tourists, many of whom head up to her crown for one of New York City's finest skyline and water views.

Close by lies Ellis Island, the American gateway for more than 12 million new arrivals between 1892 and 1954. These days it's home to one of the city's most moving museums, paying tribute to these immigrants and their indelible courage.

-- Brooklyn Bridge and beyond

The Brooklyn Bridge is one of the icons that makes New York, New York. Completed in 1873, this Gothic Revival masterpiece  - crafted entirely from granite  - has inspired poetry (Jack Kerouac's Brooklyn Bridge Blues), music (Frank Sinatra's Brooklyn Bridge) and plenty of art (Walker Evans' photography). It is also the most scenic way to get from southern Manhattan to Brooklyn Heights  - New York's first designated historic district and an ideal place to walk.

-- Yankee Stadium

Though not a thing of beauty (it looks like it was designed by Mussolini), this rebuilt South Bronx arena is home to one of the most storied outfits in American baseball: the Yankees (yankees.com). This was once the home of history-making players such as the "Sultan of Swat" Babe Ruth and "Joltin' " Joe DiMaggio.

These days, it gets packed with baseball fanatics who pour in to "root, root, root for the home team", while inhaling pulled-pork sandwiches and cold beer. In other words: an all-American good time. 

--- What's new

-- Seeing more green

Brooklyn Bridge Park (brooklynbridge parknyc.org) -  the biggest new park to be built in Brooklyn since Prospect Park in the 19th century  - has staggering views of Manhattan, the Brooklyn Bridge and a restored early 20th-century carousel. 

-- Michelin fare for a song

Chef John Fraser has earned a Michelin star status for Dovetail (dovetailnyc.com), an unpretentious Upper West Side eatery, which focuses on only the freshest produce. On Mondays the restaurant offers a three-course vegetarian menu for only $46. 

Eataly Eataly (eatalyny.com) is officially the largest Italian grocer and market space in the world, commanding more than 4600sq m in the Flatiron District. It is a major game changer in New York's gourmet market scene.

-- High Line 2.0

It's hard to believe that the High Line (thehighline.org), the city's most beloved urban renewal project, was once a dingy rail line that anchored a rather unsavoury area around the Meatpacking District and Chelsea. Section 2 opened last year, adding another 10 blocks of green-ified tracks. 

                                                                ** Need to know **

- Arriving in New York

The AirTrain ($5) links John F. Kennedy International Airport to the Metropolitan Transport Authority's subway ($2.50), which makes the one-hour journey into Manhattan; shared vans from Grand Central or Port Authority cost from $15 to $20; taxis cost a flat rate of $45 excluding tolls and tip. 

- Sleeping

- Country Inn the City (countryinnthecity.com)

Just like staying with your big-city friend  - if, that is, your big-city friend happens to own a landmark 1891 limestone townhouse on a tree-lined Upper West Side block. Country Inn has four roomy, self-contained apartments, each with sparkling wood floors, four-poster beds, cherry-wood furnishings and other decorative antique pieces. And each of the units comes with private bath and kitchenette. 

-- Useful website NYC: The Official Guide (nycgo.com) is the city's official tourism portal. 

This is an edited extract from Lonely Planet New York City (8th Edition) by Brandon Presser, et al. Lonely Planet 2012. Published this month, RRP: $34.99, see lonelyplanet.com

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