Why you will love new-look Canberra

CHARACTER, coffees and cocktails - the nation's capital has swapped its daggy image for cool nightspots and divine dining.

Canberra has been divided into ''precincts'' and ''quarters'' now. Picture: Katrina Tepper

I LOVE Canberra! Don't laugh, I'm serious.

I know you’re thinking it’s just politicians, public servants and roundabouts, and while it is true there are many of each, there’s so much more to the nation’s capital – there’s chemistry and character, coffees and cocktails.

I’ve done the gallery and museum scene numerous times but don’t really know the nightlife, so I enlist the services of a much younger, groovier local – Kirsten – to bemy guide. She tells me the city is divided into ‘‘precincts’’ and ‘‘quarters’’ now, and there’s much to be seen outside the CBD.

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I’m staying in the new Acton Precinct, it’s not SoHo by any measure, but it’s the hip place to be these days.

My hotel, The Diamant, is in revamped ANU buildings where I once researched. The rooms are sleek black and white and spacious. My haven is the combined Cocktail Bar and Library – what more could a writer want?

Kirsten and I don red shoes and take a leisurely stroll to Cahoots (in the Rydges Hotel) where a Moet Red Shoes promotion gives us a free glass of bubbly and the chance to win a pair of designer heels.

In the same precinct, we visit The Parlour, a wine bar known for its extensive Spanish wine list and tapas. We sip cocktails and take in the boutique environs and older crowd before eating next door at Flint.

The salami, pancetta and ham wood fired pizza ($24) goes down well with locally produced Alinga Merlot ($42) and friendly, friendly service. In fact, the hospitality everywhere I go in Canberra is noticeably outstanding.

We could spend the evening in the AP alone but the North Quarter – otherwise known as Bunda St – awaits.

We duck into the busiest venue – the Tongue and Groove. I’m impressed by a bar menu that includes a Pizookie – a pizza-sized warm cookie ($15).

Across the road I’m not surprised at people queuing at Sammy’s Kitchen – a Chinese dining institution in Canberra. It’s getting late though, so we finish at Gus’s and sip the Turkish apple tea.

The best berry and white chocolate muffins

On Saturday morning we head to Green Square, Kingston, where alfresco dining in summer is all the rage after six months indoors.

There are too many choices for breakfast, but we finally sit at Kingston Grind which I’m advised has the best berry and white chocolate muffins.

The highlight of my weekend is a visit to the busy, busy Vietnamese restaurant at Griffith Shops. We have a lucky dip dinner, asking our server to bring us three mystery dishes. He happily obliges and delivers what he calls ‘‘Yummy Calamari’’, ‘‘Yummy Chicken’’ and ‘‘Yummy Vegie Hotpot’’. But they are beyond yummy and the grand total is $54.

It’s off to Manuka after dinner to sip a cocktail at the elegant Julep Lounge which has been named in the top 50 most influential and best bars in Australia over the past 10 years.

On Sunday, I’m drawn to the Canberra Glass Works in Kingston to see a glass-blowing demonstration.

I’m impressed but I don’t have time to book into a bead making ($28) or Hot Glass ($55) workshop.

The gift store is tempting, but it’s the Kingston Bus Depot Markets that lure me 50m away, where I taste roasted nuts from Batemans Bay, read labels on local wines and beers and smell gourmet soaps in shapes of cupcakes and the like.

Hours later I leave the markets to the sounds of the Canberra Wind Orchestra and I smile with a sense of peace at another fabulous weekend.

From now on when my Austrian cousins brag they can be in a gondola in Venice within three hours, I’m going to respond with, ‘‘Well I can be self-paddling around Lake Burley Griffin in Canberra in three hours, and it’s much better for the legs.’’

FAST FACTS

Stay: The Diamant in the Acton Precinct is boutique luxury and perfectly located for wining, dining and getting around by foot or car.

Best coffee: ‘‘Silo in Kingston, Cornucopia in Braddon and Tilly’s in Lyneham remain longstanding favourites.’’ – Lisa Studdert

Best dining: Griffith Vietnamese Restaurant – if you’re having only one meal in
Canberra, make it here. And book.

Best cocktails: The Parlour Wine Room: Enjoy a Japanese Slipper ($16) with some
tapas.

The Julep Lounge: Sip a Bellini ($12) or Mint Julep ($18)

Interesting and fun: Canberra Glassworks for shopping, coffee and classes.

More: There are fairs and festivals on every weekend in Canberra.

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