Hunter Valley culinary getaway

TOWER Lodge is an upmarket affair with an ever-changing nine course degustation menu that threatens to stump Peter Holmes during his weekend stay.

Tower lodge escape

THE ninth course at Tower Lodge's nine restaurant arrives - a wooden box bearing dark chocolates - and I note we are the final pair remaining.

It's after 11pm, nearly four hours since we commenced this culinary romp, and I'm as full as a butcher's dog, yet determined to see it through.

One by one over the past course or two, the other four couples who helped fill the 12-seat nine have peeled off, finally defeated by the procession of tasty morsels on nine's ever-changing degustation menu.

Impressively constructed morsels including blanched asparagus with morel mushrooms, spinach puree and truffle foam; farmed rabbit done three ways with carrot puree and raisins; caramel souffle with candied pear ice cream and an open ravioli of poached rock lobster, white cabbage, lobster bisque and parsley oil that won't soon be forgotten, such is the sweet dense flavour of the bisque.

Not, it transpires, that our fellow diners are off to bed; as we waddle back to our suite, we spy the other couples dotted about the drawing room, nursing nightcaps by one of the Lodge's fireplaces.

It's all rather civilised.

Tower Lodge is a collection of low-rise buildings in Pokolbin in the Hunter Valley. It shares acreage with Tower Estate winery, Roberts Restaurant, Peppers Convent guesthouse and Pepper Tree Wines.

Externally, Tower Lodge nods to the Spanish/Mexican Mission style, with its rendered earth-toned walls and layout.

The buildings are erected around a central courtyard, off which run walkways leading to suites, the pool area and further courtyards. The main courtyard has limestone paving, with granite set around the fountain pond.

Enter the property through 100-year-old coach doors from the south of France and you're in the heart of Tower Lodge. Handmade Mexican terracotta tiles line the floors, and the design themes begin to blend as you are now in the realm of roaring fires; indulgently high, thatched ceilings; plush and comfortable furniture; antiques; artwork; and rugs.

To the right is the front desk; to the left is the drawing room and, beyond it, the dining room, library and, down a flight of stairs, nine restaurant.

It's a little Mediterranean, a bit English country estate, a smidge French and a tad African game lodge. Against the odds  - let's not forget the Asian art  -  it works, though I'm not sure the vast mirror framed by shells in the drawing room is necessary.

The whole affair has the restrained, contented air of a rich man's fancy; or, to be precise, the fancy of several well-resourced men, who clubbed together in the late 1990s to build a 5-star Hunter Valley escape dedicated to two of their abiding passions: wine and food.

Original and/or current investors include TV chef Rick Stein, businessman and art collector Basil Sellers, winemaker Brian McGuigan, the late, revered wine maker, writer, judge and drinker Len Evans and former News Limited boss Ken Cowley (News Limited is the publisher of The Sunday Telegraph).

Cowley's son Matt is the managing director of Tower Estate winery.

On the walls of Tower Lodge's drawing room are framed and signed menus from private dinners attended by owners and their friends.

Among the chefs were Tony Bilson, Tetsuya Wakuda and Neil Perry. Guests included Daryl Somers and some of the bottles of plonk, selected by the sommelier to match each course, were many decades old and worth tens of thousands of dollars.

Len Evans is said to have sketched in 10 minutes a design for Tower Lodge. None of the 12 rooms is alike and you'd wager decorating this property is the sort of job interior designers fantasise about.

Blank canvas, blank cheque  - go your hardest.

The Chairman's Suite is a freestanding building with a 300-year-old hand-carved Rajasthani bed and antique leather chairs, while Room 4 has oriental touches, wooden floors and panelling, and a hot tub.

Our room (11) has a bath so deep you need steps to reach it, a lounge, log fire, an assortment of chairs, a writing desk, lamps, side tables and objets d'art. On the walls are framed photographs of wine bottles and glasses, a painting of grapes and other fruit and a circular wrought-iron design that spans the width of the king-size bed.

Before being invited to Tower Lodge, I had never heard of it. Nor had anyone I mentioned it to. It's a story Sean Byrne, the new general manager, has heard before. His mission is to not only spruce up Tower Lodge but to get the word out.

There is more to be done to fully deserve those five stars. Work is under way on formal gardens and walkways linking the estate's various attractions. The external door handle leading from the small courtyard to our room was coated in cobwebs, as were some of the window frames. The room lacked a decent coffee machine and heating in the bathroom.

And some of the external walls need a good scrub.

In the grand scheme of things, perhaps, these are minor quibbles, but if I were paying top dollar, I'd expect the whole schmear.

Tower Lodge succeeds in creating the exclusive but homely air of a private club. The rooms are unique, comfortable and  - unlike most hotel rooms  - worthy of perusing. The food is pricey but excellent; the pool area looks like a nice spot to beach oneself come summer and, if you drink wine, three cellar doors are literally within stumbling distance.

Best of all, the service is impeccable but never stuffy. During dinner at nine a woman at another table is having difficulty clambering up the stairs in high heels when repairing to the loo.

Long days in the Hunter Valley can do that to you. The maitre d' notices and, upon the woman's return, approaches, says a few words, bends down and discreetly passes the woman what I assume are a pair of Tower Lodge slippers. The maitre d' reassures the woman no one will mind, and returns to her duties.

It's a lovely touch.

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- The writer was a guest of Tower Lodge.

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- POKOLBIN

- Getting there

Take the F3 north of Sydney. Turn off at Cessnock/Kurri Kurri exit. At Cessnock, turn right into Vincent St. Turn left into Wollombi Rd and first right on to Wine Country Rd. Drive for 5km. Turn left into Broke Rd and follow for 1km, then left into Halls Rd.

- Staying there Tower Lodge, 6 Halls Rd, Pokolbin. Ph 4998 7022 or see www.towerlodge.com.au

- Seeing there

Tower Estate winery; Hunter Valley Gardens; Roberts Restaurant.

- More: The new cafe and nursery The Crossing (6 Caledonia Rd, Kearsley) has an eye-watering collection of old albums pinned to a wall.