Cruise the Murray River in style on the Murray Princess

YOU won't find a more tranquil holiday than sitting back in comfort with the paddlewheel lapping and the magnificent scenery changing at every turn.

escape princess

"IF YOU think it looks great now, wait until you see it in spring when masses of birds invade the water system," says Murray Princess captain Peter Hunter as he guides the meandering paddlewheeler past giant cliffs on one side and endless wetlands on the other.

"They're all out breeding now in these plentiful conditions." My wife Pat and I were on a four-day cruise from Mannum to Swan Reach and return, taking in some of the most spectacular scenery on the length of the Murray River.

"The normal cruise takes us through the lock at Blanchetown, but the flow is too strong and the river too high for the next few weeks to allow that," says Hunter, a 22-year veteran with Murray River boats with six years at the helm of the Murray Princess.

He is one of three captains who share the duties. The river is enjoying the influx of water from contributing rivers upstream after years of drought, with thirsty flood plains eagerly soaking up the welcome flow.

However, the level is nowhere near the floods of the 1990s, 1970s and the grandad of them all, the 1956 whopper.

"Us poor old riverboat captains have a hard time because it's difficult to moor, but from a tourist point of view, it couldn't be better," Hunter says as a squadron of pelicans catch a thermal and soar overhead.

It is difficult to imagine a more tranquil holiday than sitting back in a comfortable easy chair with the paddlewheel lapping and the magnificent scenery changing at every turn of the snaking ribbon of water.

Oh the serenity! However, a Murray Princess cruise involves much more than just watching the world go by. The boat moors at regular intervals to allow passengers to explore the countryside, including an informative bushwalk led by Hunter.

On the first day, comfortable coaches take us to the Blanchetown lock, then the Burk Salter winery for a tour and a taste of the local product.

Swan Reach has an interesting museum, much of the contents donated by one family in the district. Back on the river near Swan Reach, passengers are intrigued when passing a row of recently built pole houses completely surrounded by water.

One of Australia's most important archaeological digs is in the cliffs at Ngaut Ngaut Conservation Park. Aboriginal rangers tell of the history in the area and take us on a boardwalk tour where rock drawings include a depiction of the sun which is thought to be 8000 years old. This area is where women congregated and slept.

In another area is a picture of the moon, where the men gathered. Elsewhere, the fossilised remains of a shark thought to be one million years old was found in the cliffs.

The site was first seriously excavated in 1929 when Herbert Hale and Norman Tindale began their archaeological investigations.

Sifting through layers of ash, artefacts and other remains produced a picture of life over thousands of years. The remains of children as well as the Tasmanian tiger and Tasmanian devil were also found.

At the Sunnydale Woolshed, David LeBruin treats us to a fair dinkum Aussie experience as he shears a sheep, cracks a whip, helps us divine water and conducts an auction to purchase a sheep in a race.

The auction is a lot of fun with the bidding starting at $5 and extending to $25, going up in 20 lots as LeBruin drags out the bids. Songs, yarns and jokes around the campfire at the barbecue on the banks of the Murray top off a good day.

We groan when we hear that the second night is to be fancy dress, but fossick among the boat's collection of costumes. I find a set of wings and a few flowers and go as the Manly Fairy and win a prize for most cryptic costume. The night is a real icebreaker as Hunter makes fun of all participants while he tries to guess who or what they represent.

Both the food and the staff serving the tables are first class. As is the way with cruise ships, no one goes hungry. The Murray Princess was commissioned in 1986 and built at Goolwa, based on the paddlewheelers on the Mississippi River in the US.

Pat and I have travelled on a very similar vessel, the Mississippi Queen, along the virtually featureless Mississippi and Cumberland rivers.

There is absolutely no comparison in the scenery experienced, with the Murray by far the most dramatic and picturesque and one of the world's great river cruises.

The four-day Outback Heritage Cruise departs every Monday from Mannum at 4.30pm, returning at 9am Friday. Coach transfers depart the Mercure Hotel, North Tce, on Monday at 2pm and return to the Mercure on Friday at noon. Undercover parking is provided at Mannum for those making their own way there.On Friday, the boat leaves Mannum bound for Murray Bridge, returning Monday morning.

The two cruises can be combined for a seven-night trip. An optional Barossa Valley tour is also available on Friday and Monday.

The author was a guest of Captain Cook Cruises, operators of the Murray Princess

There is a winter special offering 25 per cent off all Murray River cruises from June to August, with three-night cruises from $583 a person, normally $777 a person.

For more information, contact Captain Cook Cruises on ph 1800 804 843, email murray@ captaincook.com.au or see www.captain cook.com.au

Travel Ideas: Cruise holidays