Aussie food spot that rivals Sydney’s best

Located in the gateway to country NSW, there’s a hidden gem of a dining experience that you’d expect in the finest restaurants in Sydney.

There’s a surprising new must-visit destination for foodies and it’s nowhere near a major capital city.

I’m sitting in an intimate yet sleekly modern space on a Saturday night, sipping a glass of Syrah, while the waitress talks us through an ala carte menu that I want to sample one of everything – if only my stomach were as big as my eyes.

From my table, I can see into the chef pass. In this darkly lit, moody room, the rectangular box of light draws the eye. I observe the chefs work, quickly and expertly. It’s like I’m watching a real life episode of the hit show The Bear – the parts that give you an insight into the inner workings of Michelin star restaurants, not the episodes where things spiral out of control.

Seeing into the chef pass at Rowlee Bar and Dining. Picture: Supplied

As a Sydneysider who loves to dine out, I’ve eaten at many of the top restaurants the big city has to offer. The bar is high.

But on this Saturday night, I’m not at a TikTok viral restaurant which has a waitlist of months. I’m about three and half hours from Sydney in the picturesque countryside of Orange.

Dining at Rowlee Dining & Bar, the recently opened restaurant of Rowlee Wines owned by Nicole Samodol and James Manny, I am impressed with everything on offer.

Helmed by head chef Simon Furley, a Brit who spent almost a decade working in acclaimed Queensland restaurants before his move to Orange, Rowlee Dining & Bar’s menu showcases Simon’s passion for wood-fired, nose-to-tail and root-to-shoot cooking.

With sustainability at its core, and backed by strong relationships with local farmers and producers, Simon’s elevated share-style menu champions the best of the best of the region’s produce.

Highlights include a dry aged Bangalow pork chop with fermented rhubarb, a long fed Angus sirloin with smoked mustard, coal-roasted market fish and a cheddar custard burnt leek and potato.

Some bar snacks on offer at Rowlee Bar and Dining, including this grilled mortadella with bread sauce that was delicious. Picture: Supplied

Just a selection of mains available at Rowlee Bar and Dining. Picture: Supplied

The dishes are undeniably elevated but done in an unpretentious way i.e. beautifully presented but generous so there’s no chance you’re leaving hungry.

As for the drinks, you can enjoy Rowlee’s entire wine list – including their best-selling Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Arneis or pinot noir – as well as an edit of local and international wines.

Rowlee Bar and Dining consists of four spaces – dining room, lounge, bar, and veranda. Picture: Supplied

It’s the sort of dining experience I expect at the finest restaurants in Sydney, not in the heart of NSW’s Central West region.

From the moment I stepped into the space and was greeted immediately by the venue manager Bon Kuil-Hartikainen (ex Rockpool Dining Group), I knew it was going to be a good experience. Then add in the attentive waitstaff, excellent service, the luxe fit-out, the relaxed atmosphere, and the food of course, it became an unforgettable experience.

Rowlee Dining and Bar is open Thursday to Sunday for lunch and Friday and Saturday for dinner. Picture: Supplied

It was just one of many surprises when visiting Orange for a long weekend getaway.

While the Hunter Valley and Southern Highlands are popular destinations for a weekend away, Orange is a hidden gem that offers it all: good food, cool climate wines, heritage streetscapes, awe-inspiring scenery and warm country hospitality. And without the hordes of city folks who had the exact same idea as you did.

Wineries

Without the long history of other wine regions, Orange has mostly flown under the radar. But home to more than 60 vineyards, Orange’s wine region was another surprise to me.

Renowned for its cool climate wines, the Orange region produces Chardonnay, Savignon Blanc, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon varieties exceptionally well.

Visiting three wineries – Rowlee Wines, Ross Hill and Word of Mouth – I was struck by just how hospitable and friendly the staff were in every establishment.

Enjoy wine tasting at Rowlee Wine cellar door. Picture: Supplied

We didn’t have a booking at one vineyard but they worked to fit us in. All were generous with their time as well as their pours. I never felt like a number.

Not yet overrun with holiday-makers at every corner, Orange is filled with picturesque rolling hills, country charm and friendly locals who not only want to really look after you but are willing to have a yarn and make sure you have a great time.

Now for the wines? I left with two cases if that tells you anything.

Stay

Rowlee Wines Guesthouse is available to stay on request. Picture: Supplied

I only require two things for a winter escape: a fireplace and a bath.

Staying at Rowlee Wines Guesthouse, a converted cottage which co-owner James mentioned once managed to fit a large family back in the day, it has been transformed into the ultimate secluded stay for a romantic getaway.

The fire was perfect for a cold wintry night in Orange. Picture: Supplied

I spent literally an hour in this tub at Rowlee Wines Guesthouse. Picture: Supplied

There’s a fireplace, which had been conveniently set up so anyone can light it (much needed for this newbie), and a bathtub the size of a swimming pool. Tick and tick.

Everything is cosy and homey. The huge king sized bed with its luxurious linens was like sleeping on a cloud. The veranda with its seats; the perfect setting to enjoy the view.

Yet another surprise revelation. Orange has become my new favourite weekend getaway destination.

This journalist stayed as a guest of Rowlee Wines