Family friendly Mt Buller

WITH 80km of marked trails, the historic ski destination is a great place for the family to learn, writes Carla Adams.

Mt Buller escape

"MATE I just ripped it up Baldy, we're gonna do the Bull Run next. Yeah, meet you there in five. It's awesome!"

The snowboarder in his lurid jacket and fluorescent blue pants is on his iPhone at the summit of the Holden Express ski run at Mt Buller, three hours from Melbourne's CBD.

Novices like me are gingerly making our way down, while super pros such as Mr Awesome are probably on their 10th or so run. (With 80km of marked trails, this is a mountain that cannot be skied in a day). 

Mt Buller's skiing pioneers would never have believed their heritage would eventually include five bars of mobile phone coverage at the top of their mountain. More than 100 years ago, they'd rug up in heavy woollen jumpers, scarves, beanies and socks, don their boots, hoist wooden skis and hold tight for a two-hour endurance ride as they were pulled by rope to the summit. 

Back then, there was no Apres Bar or Abom Restaurant to kill a noon craving for hot chocolate and, until last year, no hot doughnut stand. Thankfully, this oversight has been fixed thanks to the vision and persistence of Matthew Greg from Agnes Water in Queensland.

His stall doesn't open until about 2.30pm when Matt has done his time ripping it up and down the mountain. You smell the tiny bits of hot dough saturated with cinnamon sugar as people hog into them in the Village Square. 

Other people talk about them on the shuttle, first thing in the morning. 

Children get their own lesson area the Magic Forest, carpeted to stop them sliding. A moving escalator transports them up and down the slope.

We weren't the only parents skulking about in the trees on the perimeter of the forest, giggling at our girls' attempts to snowplough and ski straight, and we have video footage to prove it. Morning, afternoon or full-day sessions are available, including meals, activities and ski lessons, so it's a good introduction to your family's newest holiday obsession. 

There was a point, on day two, when it all became a bit magical. We were fuelled up on doughnuts and the day trippers had gone home, leaving the overnighters and a rowdy bunch of staff in end-of-season mode egging the last skiers and snowboarders of the day to "Jump! Jump! Jump!

HeyYayyyyy" over a particularly challenging drop. All of a sudden, with the "beginner's pen" almost to ourselves, Miss Five and Miss Three took off. Downhill, fast, little legs finding the plough stance and looks of absolute amazement and wonder on their faces as they reached the bottom of the run still vertical.

They were so delighted, they even helped carry their skis back up, again and again. 

So this is what those pioneers braved the rope for. That tingle in your cheeks, and the smile so hard to wipe off your face. The delight of the crunch and whoosh of the snow under skis, eyes scanning for the next downhill slope.

 Tips for new skiers:

1. Skiing should only involve your body from the waist down. Turn your legs in from the hip, lean your shins forward against your boots, and use gentle movements of your feet and knees to turn.

2. Learn to turn. This way you can keep a safe speed, and a sense of control. 

3. Don't watch other skiers look for white spaces between them, that way you're less likely to smash into them. 

4. Do watch out for new snowboarders, apparently scientifically proven to crash more than anyone else on the slope. 

5. Relax. Skiing should not feel like a struggle against skis and snow. 

---- Family fun on the slopes how to make happy ski-bunnies 

1. Buy your kids mittens (not gloves) and UV sunglasses or goggles. 

2. Use the toilet before you hit the slopes. 

3. Keep snacks in your jacket, for a quick blood sugar pick-up.

4. Leave a bottle of water nearby everyone dehydrates faster in the combination of cold air and sun. 

5. Carry lip balm and sunscreen.

6. If you're coming for more than two nights, get an apartment which allows you to self-cater. At Mt Buller, the free shuttles run from 8am-6pm, which means you can pop into your chalet for lunch and a rest, then back to the slopes for the afternoon. 

7. Light layers work best under your ski outfits think leggings and long-sleeve T-shirts. 

8. Get lessons. Each one will take you far beyond what you thought your ability would be. 

9. If budget is an issue, book your holiday at the end of the ski season. Hotels and private accommodation offer up to 50 per cent off the peak season rate, and ski equipment stores offer 40-60 per cent clearance sales on gear. 

The writer and her family travelled with the assistance of Mt Buller and Tourism Victoria.

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MT BULLER

Getting there

Mt Buller is about a 780km drive southwest of Sydney.

Staying there

Mt Buller Chalet is directly across from beginner runs and the kids' Bunyip club. mtbullerchalet.com.au

More: mtbuller.com.au