Enjoying the vibe skiing in Vail, Colorado

ANGELA Saurine skis 65,000 vertical feet over five days and enjoys the fun ambience at North America's largest ski area.

Vail Escape

THERE'S a rule at the Red Lion bar in Vail: no ski pants after 9pm.

Despite this, we somehow sneak our way in past the beanie-clad door staff and weave our way through the crowd to the bar and then to a spot just in front of the stage, where a singer with a haircut straight out of Dumb and Dumber is belting out Sweet Home Alabama.

Perhaps it is the temporary tattoo of the Australian flag on our cheeks that has led to the leniency.

"Happy Australia Day!" the singer cries when he notices them, and suddenly we are clinking beer glasses with several new American friends who look as if they have just stepped out of an episode of The Bold and the Beautiful.

Behind the band we can see snowflakes falling heavily through the full-length window; a constant reminder not to stay out too late as it's sure to be a powder day tomorrow.

Australia Day celebrations had begun earlier that day at Two Elk Lodge on the mountain, which was decorated with yellow and green balloons and koala signs.

Staff gave out stickers and served meat pies and burgers with the lot.

From there we headed to the lively apres spot Garfinkels for chicken wings and Australian-themed trivia.

Along with the UK and Mexico, Australia is one of Vail's biggest international markets and the resort is keen to make Aussies feel welcome, and keep them coming back.

Mother Nature also plays her part.

Nearly 30cm of snow falls overnight, and the next morning the chairs at the base of the village are covered and the fir trees on the mountain look as if they have been spray-painted white.

There's a certain vibe on the mountain on a powder day.

As we ride the chairlift up the hill skiers below us are yahooing like cowboys while others cheer each other on as they try to make it through the thick snow. The sun is shining on the seemingly endless rolling white hills in the distance.

We are all like kids in a candy store, but in this case our candy is of the sugary, white variety.

After a few warm-up runs we head to Ricky's Ridge, where we traverse for a few minutes before coming to a steep run of glittering virgin snow below us. The snow is past my knees and, while powder skiing can be extremely difficult when you are not used to it, by now we are warmed up and the snow is so dry the skiing is effortless.

It's hard to describe the sensation to a non-skier, but it feels a bit like gliding on silky smooth talcum powder.

"Whooooooooooo! Whoooooo! Whoooooo!" I squeal with delight at every turn.

When I reach the bottom I have a grin from ear to ear.

Throughout the morning I fall over countless times, but I am on such a high all I do is laugh.

Besides, the snow is so soft it doesn't hurt to fall in it.

"This is it," I think. "This is the feeling that makes grown men and women pay thousands of dollars to fly to the other side of the world to experience and makes others give up successful careers in favour of life as a ski bum."

Before visiting Vail I had heard it compared to Disneyland, and when I arrive I can understand why.

While many ski resorts in America were built next to old mining towns, in Vail the ski resort came first and the village was built up around it.

The long, narrow village spreads along the highway in front of the ski mountains, with a creek running its length.

The pavement is heated so the snow melts away, and there are ice carvings of polar bears, as well as a fountain designed by the same people behind the fountain show at the Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas.

The village has a round ice-skating rink and fur blankets are chained to wooden benches in the village so you can sit and keep warm.

There's also a modern cinema complex, funky bowling alley with a restaurant, and plenty of day spas.

"It's lovely but it's a bit fake," I overhear one Australian visitor say as we are walking through the village.

Locals will tell you   - repeatedly   - that Vail is very different from Aspen and doesn't have the celebrity culture its Colorado rival does.

There are plenty of millionaires who frequent Vail, but they are more likely to be members of a Middle Eastern royal family or behind-the-scenes movers and shakers.

Still, George Clooney and Brad Pitt have been known to ski at Vail, and Australian businessman Kerry Stokes has a prime piece of real estate in front of the gondola.

Vail is the largest ski area in North America, with 2141ha of skiable terrain and 193 named runs. The longest run, Riva Ridge, is 6.4km.

The resort - which turns 50 in December - averages more than 9m of snow a year, although it is significantly less when I visit.

While most ski resorts have one main face, Vail is divided into three areas -  Front Side, Blue Sky Basin and its seven famous Back Bowls.

You'll meet locals who have skied there every year and still haven't skied every run.

One of the biggest drawcards for Vail is the Epic Season Pass, which allows you to ski at all Vail resorts for the season on one $US659 ($A636) ticket.

This means you can also check out Beaver Creek, about a 15-minute drive away, and Breckenridge, which is about 45 minutes away.

When I was a kid I used to come home every night and highlight the runs I had skied with a black texta, trying to cover as much of the mountain as I could.

But with Vail's EpicMix ski application you can track where you have been electronically via your pass, which is scanned at the bottom of each lift, on your laptop or smartphone.

After five days' skiing, I can see I've skied 65,000 vertical feet and ridden lifts 47 times.

Photographers in lime-green suits will take your photo throughout the resort and it goes straight to your page, so you can share it on social networking sites such as Facebook or Twitter.

And when you're somewhere like Vail, you have to show off.

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COLORADO

-- Getting there

United Airlines flies to Denver via San Francisco from Sydney.

See united.com

Colorado Mountain Express operates a shuttle service between Denver Airport and Vail resorts.

See coloradomountain express.com

-- Staying there

Ritz-Carlton Residences has a seven-night package from $2995 a person in a two-bedroom apartment for four people, including a seven-day Epic Pass valid at Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, Keystone, Heavenly, Northstar, Kirkwood and Araphoe Basin.

Must book by October 1 for travel from January 15-February 15 next year. It has a restaurant for guests only, pool and valet service so you don't have to carry your skis to the shuttle.

Ph 1300 136 997 or see skimax.com.au

More: vail.com

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