Monster rays on Hawaiian cruise

GIANT Manta rays are the stars of the show and watching them come out to dine at night is a mesmerising experience, writes Roderick Eime.

hawaii american safari escape jan 20

THE stage is set. Dazzling, luminous columns penetrate into the depths from floating banks of floodlights.

LED beams focus upward, searching, seeking, as if for alien craft. It could be some high-security submarine penitentiary or the prelude to a Bon Jovi concert underwater.

Instead, a dozen or more of us are clinging to urchin-infested coral outcrops at a depth of about 10m, craning upward, while a second group floats on the surface, eyes peeled. We wait knowing that, like clockwork, they'll arrive, drawn by our floating beacons.

Already the water is thickening with microscopic animals. A mist of plankton makes a kind of wriggly soup above us as we hang on against the intermittent surges that want to roll us around on the bottom and impale us on the nasty urchins spread out like anti-personnel mines.

Wait, what was that? A dark shadow on the fringe of my vision. In an instant it's gone but then another, and another. I wave my torch and catch a glimpse of the mighty animal swooping in like a stealth fighter, giant mouth agape, gathering the abundance of food and doubling back on itself for another pass.

Then, like a bomber caught in searchlights, it loops and rolls gracefully while the rest of the squadron follows suit. Before long, there are six or seven performing a variety of manoeuvres, all designed to swallow as much of the plankton as possible.

Here at the so-called Manta Village, 100m from the waterfront Keauhou Bay hotel on Hawaii's Big Island, giant manta rays come in to dine every night. Unflustered by the presence of divers and snorkellers, they gorge on the tiny animals while executing a mesmerising ballet.

They come in so close, I'm forced to duck to avoid contact as the fearless monster ray passes over me like something from a science fiction movie.

The mantas started coming here more than 20 years ago, when the hotel put floodlights on the surf for guests' enjoyment, says Kirk, my guide aboard expedition cruise ship Safari Explorer. People noticed and started snorkelling and diving with the animals and now it is a major attraction.

For me, the manta ray encounter is the undisputed highlight of American Safari Cruises' eight-day Hawaiian Seascapes itinerary around the lesser visited islands. Launched 15 years ago, the company specialises in small-ship, low-impact adventures for travellers.

Focusing primarily on Alaska, but also offering expedition-style trips in British Columbia, Mexico and Washington State, the company reorganised in 2011 and became a subsidiary of a newly formed cruise line InnerSea Discoveries. The operation now has seven vessels.

Hawaii is the domain of Safari Explorer, a sturdy, upscale 36-passenger vessel. Equipped with kayaks, snorkelling kit, paddleboards and motorised tenders, we hug the sheer cliffs and duck in and out of secluded coves around the Big Island, Lanai, Molokai, Maui, Kahoolawe and tiny Molokini. Dining is healthy in the convivial saloon, plus wine, spirits and massages are included.

It seems we have our own spinner dolphin escort, too, accompanying the little ship with regular aerial displays.

While we spend a lot of time getting wet, there's plenty of time ashore, too, from the tourist towns of Kailua-Kona, to the sleepy village of Kaunakakai on Molokai, which will never see a cruise ship of regular proportions if the adamant locals get their way.

In contrast to the rampant tourism on Oahu, where loud shirts and Elvis Presley souvenirs set the scene, these islands still retain the remote, romantic allure that so attracted the first tourists.

The island of Molokai is a case in point. With fewer than 8000 residents, it is a kind of frangipani fortress for traditional Hawaiian culture. ASC had to submit to complex cultural scrutiny by the local community before the cruises were allowed to proceed.

"We are grateful to the wonderful people of Molokai for their true aloha spirit and hold tremendous respect for their unwavering desire to preserve their traditional lifestyle for future generations," ASC chief executive Dan Blanchard noted after reaching his landmark agreement. "We are delighted to be able to share Molokai's beauty and honest and untainted Hawaiian spirit with our guests."

From the lush Halawa Valley, where we visit elder Lawrence Aki, to the (optional) mule ride or hike to the abode of Father Damien and his tragically renown 19th-century leper colony as portrayed by Aussie actor David Wenham in the film Molokai, we learn that the island is anything but the stereotypical brochure fantasy.

Besides the comprehensive activities offered as part of the standard itinerary, guests can extend their experience with optional add-ons such as scuba diving, horse riding and golf on the nearby resort island of Lanai. The plush Four Seasons Resort serves as a junction for cruise guests and is a perfect wind-up or wind-down for those looking to add a few days to their mid-Pacific break.

While Hawaii deserves its reputation as a fantasy island escape, ASC reconnects with the fundamental Hawaiian culture and natural beauty at the core of this kingdom. 

-- The writer was a guest of American Safari Cruises.

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HAWAII

- Getting there

Hawaiian Airlines and Qantas fly direct from Sydney to Honolulu. Inter-island flights are operated by Hawaiian Airlines. See hawaiian airlines.com.au or qantas.com

- Doing there

American Safari Cruises offers seven-night cruises from the Big Island to Maui between October and May. Priced from $4995 a person, twin share, the fare includes ground transfers, taxes, meals, wine and spirits, guides, ship-based activities, yoga and a massage. See innerseadiscoveries.com

A second vessel is planned for this year. Contact Ultimate Cruising on 1300 662 943 or see ultimatecruising.com.au

- Staying there

Mauna Lani Bay Hotel and Bungalows on the Kohala Coast, see maunalani.com

Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay, see fourseasons.com/manelebay

Hyatt Regency Maui, see hyattregencymaui.com