Bush charm in old shearing shed

ELLEN Connolly heads to the NSW cool-climate wine region of Orange and emerges happier – and fuller – from this gourmet city.

Indulge ... enjoy tapas and a glass or two of local wine at Belgravia at Union Bank

FOR me, Orange is synonymous with one thing: a doomed honeymoon. Not mine – my parents'.

Fifty-six years ago, my father whisked off his new bride to what was then a small NSW central-west town.

What was meant to be a week-long affair to remember ended after four days when my mother, frozen to the core, packed up and came home. Her dutiful – and equally frostbitten – husband followed.

So, when I tell them that I'm returning to the scene, there are gasps of disbelief.

Unperturbed, we hit the highway for the weekend to sample some of the restaurants and wineries which will host the sixth annual wine festival in October.

Our base was the Black Sheep Inn, a 100-year-old shearing shed on the outskirts of town at Kyalla Park, which has been converted into five comfortable guest suites.

We arrived late and were overjoyed when our city eyes woke to magnificent countryside: rolling – albeit dry – hills, and the imposing Mount Canobolas in the distance. A small herd of black cows completed the picture.

Inside, owners Dee and Robert Napier have retained as much of the original timber and materials as possible, including an old wool press, shearing machine and hinged saloon doors.

The original wool-sorting table has been transformed into a glass-topped communal dining area where a two-course breakfast from local produce is served. This included poached pears with lemon cheese curd, corn and coriander fritters with organic poached eggs, and smoked salmon, as well as Dee's range of homemade jams.

There are some nice touches: the L'Occitane products, Lindt chocolates, and tea leaves for making a pot.

Dee provides true country hospitality, even driving guests into town for dinner. We take up the offer, and then sit back at Lolli Redini's for a feast of food (roasted Tallabung pork scotch fillet on Paris mash with apple, crackling and cabbage ($30) and some BYO local wine.

Next door is the trendy Belgravia Union Bank, which has a cellar door with a wine and tapas bar attached. Glasses of wine start at $3 and the menu includes such delights as peppered venison loin on crostini with beetroot relish ($12).

The fig jam, rocket and goats cheese bruschetta is delicious and not to be missed.

Because the wineries are small, the wine tastings are a personal affair often with the winemaker. It's necessary to book ahead, too.

At Bloodwood Winery, Steven Doyle wanders in from pruning the vines to chat to us about the wine with his wife, Rhonda.

Bloodwood is the oldest winery in the region. It's small, just 7.5ha of vines, but has a hard-won reputation for quality.

The pinot noir ($35) and shiraz are worth sampling. They also do an award-winning riesling, rose and champagne.

Next door is Ross Hill Vineyard which, apart from wine, produces a substantial olive grove with Italian and Spanish varieties. Ross also has Australia's first free-range snail farm.

We missed the farmers' market on the second Saturday of the month, but were told it is well worth a look.

Just outside Orange is the quaint village of Millthorpe, home to the award-winning Tonic restaurant.

Chef Tony Worland is gaining a strong following from locals and Sydneysiders, some of whom were over on day trips.

His ever-changing menu includes a strong regional influence and includes duck consomme with sauteed mushrooms, seared duck breast and fresh local truffles.

Back at Black Sheep Inn, you can easily spend an evening around the fire, which is what we did following our long lunch.

While the weekend left us a few kilos heavier and our heads a little dusty from the local drop, we will happily return to this gourmet city. There is a real energy and buzz, which you can't help but embrace.

As for my parents, a second honeymoon perhaps?

The writer was a guest of Central NSW Tourism.

The Sunday Telegraph