Babymoon cruise in New Zealand

FIRST-TIME cruisers discover the joys of New Zealand and life at sea before the family becomes three, writes Jesper Fjeldstad

New Zealand

IT wasn't until the fourth day of the trip that it all came together. The Sun Princess was in fine form, delivering on its many promises.

As we were gliding through Milford Sound, a spectacular fjord in the southwest corner of New Zealand, it was all beginning to make sense.

Three days of cold, punishing rain and rolling seas were behind us. The sun was playing with the ripples on the water as dolphins jumped about, waterfalls were pouring into the sound like a heavy-handed waiter and only the ship's hum broke the silence.

Over a champagne breakfast in our balcony suite, we took in the steep, snow-capped mountains that leaned dramatically into the water and in the background, in the open seas, a whale and her calf bubbled the water.

After some concerns not least the two days of sea sickness my partner, Emily, had endured there were blue skies ahead.

We were first-time cruisers not knowing what to expect. A week of frivolity had turned into a "babymoon" after we found out between the booking and the embarkment that a child was on its way.Then there was the crowd, which was a bit more mature than we had expected.

"Bet the nightclub goes off at night," was my sarcastic line as we lined up to get on the Sun Princess at Brisbane on day one.

Emily fired back: "They'll have as much energy as I do right now; just relax."

And we did. Three days at sea were spent exploring the magnificent ship and the myriad activities on offer.

You couldn't help but think back to the days of Don Bradman and Richie Benaud, who'd spend months on end on big ships while on international duties and did their training on deck.

You could fill every minute: there were trivia quizzes, bingo competitions, golf simulator competitions, classes, lectures, a casino, cinema, live shows and a range of bars on every level.

For the restless, there was the challenge of walking around the ship, braving the rain and the rolling waves, as well as a full gym.

Or, if you wanted to slow down, there was a luxurious spa for pampering. You could borrow books from the library or spend time in the reading room; you could access the internet through one of the many workstations in the computer room, or watch all the in-house movies in your room most of them late releases.

As for the food, it was magnificent and endless.

The buffet, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner and snacks in between, was stacked with gourmet food for every waking hour and there were the more formal restaurants that included a pizza restaurant (outstanding) and a grill with steaks for which you'd be happy to part with significant coin on the mainland.

There are city restaurants that start their steak prices at $50 that couldn't match the ones on the Sun Princess.

To us, the cruise was at its best when it was cruising at night and we were in port during the day which was most of the time.

That's when you realise all of its charms: the endless (included in the price) food, the fact that there's no unpacking or logistics to take care of and the joy of experiencing a new place each day. Then cap it off with a live show or a movie, set the time for 7am and the next port.

Following Milford Sound, there was Dunedin, a spectacular little city with unpredictable weather and breathtaking views from the hills surrounding the harbour.

There was the bus tour to show you around, a look at what they claim is the steepest street in the world and the Cadbury chocolate factory, but the best part was walking the streets and blending in, ducking into a cafe or a pub or a walking through the market to see what local life is about.

Akaroa, which was taken in the following day, was a treat.

It is the only town in New Zealand with a French heritage and there are tricolour flags flying on the main drag, streets with French names and a three-way blend of the French, the English and the Maori.

From there, it's a quick bus drive to the TranzAlpine Express, a train that will serve up the most eye-catching mountain scenery there is and also drive home a few stereotypes.

On the way to Arthur's Pass and on top of the range, you drive through four enormous sheep stations and each has more than 10,000 sheep. They are everywhere, from near the rivers and lakes in the valley to climbing up on the mountain tops that serve as ski fields in winter.

Wellington was next, after we wound down the previous night in the elegant dining room and then went to sleep while the captain, Graham Goodway, did his work overnight.

The Englishman mingles when he has a minute to spare (and somebody else to steer the ship), and he makes you realise the magnitude of his assignment.

Goodway's in charge of the ship, 2000-odd passengers and more than 800 staff. It's some responsibility, but he doesn't let it strain his disposition.

"I don't let it weigh me down," he says.

"I don't forget it: I have to make the final call. But it was something I was born into and have worked for decades to become."

Another with an important load on his shoulders is Norbert Sommerhalter, the executive chef.

Sommerhalter is a tall and broad man and sounds like Arnold Schwarzenegger when he speaks. His chef's hat makes him so tall he has to carefully negotiate his way through the industrial kitchen.

They make the lot down there, and there's a tone of pride in his voice as he shows you through his bakery, the butcheries (fish and meat), the pastry chefs and the many cooks at work.

It is a 24-hour operation and he reckons he can never switch off.

Sommerhalter was born in a village in the Black Forest near Freiburg, Germany, and worked in 5-star restaurants in Europe before joining the cruising industry.

It's a different world, but one he loves.

"In the beginning, it was very hard," he says. "And just because you're a good chef doesn't mean you're suited to a ship. It's 24 hours, and we make everything here and you're responsible."

He's had his near-misses, like when containers full of food have not arrived at a port and he's had to improvise. Sommerhalter reckons that there always has to be a plan B and that everybody on a ship has to have two jobs. He's learning to drive the lifeboats as we speak.

In a sense, Sommerhalter sums up the experience of cruising, and that of the Sun Princess in particular: it's an international trip.

Every crew member has a name tag that lists their country of origin, and there's one from every corner of the world: Germany, South Africa, the Philippines, England ... it goes on.

This was a trip to New Zealand, but the rest of the world was there.

*Passengers who are pregnant are required to supply a note from their doctor indicating they are fit to travel, including their due date, prior to embarkation. Princess does not accept passengers who will have entered their 24th week, or later, of pregnancy by the end of their cruise.

Doing there

Princess Cruises' Sun Princess is based in Australia full time, sailing from Brisbane until March and returning for its second Queensland season from this October to April next year.

Sister ship Dawn Princess also sails from Australia full time, while Sea Princess sails from Australia over the summer season.

Sun Princess will offer a range of 14-night round-trip cruises to New Zealand from Brisbane from October to April, with fares from $1699 a person, twin share.

Ports of call include Fiordland, Dunedin, Akaroa, Napier, Tauranga and Auckland.

Sea Princess and Dawn Princess will offer 13-night round-trip cruises to New Zealand from Sydney and Melbourne respectively, from the end of the year. Fares start at $1699 a person, twin share.

Ph 132 488 or see princess.com