New York rising from the rubble

TEN years after the attack on the World Trade Centre, Elizabeth Meryment returns to New York.

Wall Street

I HAVE been in New York for less than two hours when two dyed-in-the-wool New Yorkers bring up the September 11 terrorist attack.

Around our Lower East Side restaurant table, a hush descends as they discuss where they were at the time of the attack and how the shock of the event continues to haunt them every day.

"But now we're starting to think that it might be time to move on a little," says Chris. "Not to forget at all but to start looking forward."

Next weekend marks the 10th anniversary of the extraordinary attack on New York's World Trade Center, which saw the Twin Towers destroyed and the famous New York skyline changed forever.

The attack remains one of those "where were you when ... ?" moments, not only for New Yorkers but for everyone alive at the time.

nineleven

While huge 10th anniversary commemorations will dominate the next week, in Lower Manhattan itself things have quietly been moving on in recent years.

At the World Trade Center site, building is under way of the new towers that will occupy the gaping holes left where the Twin Towers stood for more than 28 years.

The actual spaces formerly occupied by the two towers have been turned into an identical pair of beautiful "reflection pools", complete with mechanised waterfalls.

The site will be opened to the public from September 12, with the names of the victims of the attacks inscribed around the pools' edges.

On the actual day of the anniversary, families of the victims will be able to attend a special event at the 9/11 Memorial, with other members of the public able to access the site after that.

A special ticketing system will be instituted to handle the crowds who will want to visit the memorial go to 911memorial.org for details.

On the remainder of the huge 6.5ha site, five towers are taking shape.

One is already up and operational, while the largest of the towers to be called 1 World Trade Center, after the "Freedom Tower" moniker was rejected by families of 9/11 victims will soar to 1776ft (541.3m), a symbolic height given that was the year America declared its independence.

When finished, it will be America's tallest skyscraper, with a simple, elegant symmetrical shape and a large spire, making it not dissimilar to other New York landmark buildings including the Chrysler Building and the Empire State Building.

It is due for completion late in 2013.

wtc

Away from the WTC site, things have also been changing in this district characterised as being everywhere "below Chambers St" that has for many years been known primarily as a financial hub.

In the years after the attacks, many large businesses moved out of the area to take up cheaper office space in places such as New Jersey, leaving the Downtown area adrift.

Now, many former office buildings have found a new lease of life as residential towers, with more than 55,000 residents moving into the area since 2001, doubling the number of inhabitants.

Hotels have also sprung up in the area, with 20 now located Downtown, while restaurants and shopping districts have also flourished.

To respond to the increased interest, the city has begun an official campaign, called Get More NYC: Lower Manhattan, with a culture pass available to travellers staying at one of the participating Lower Manhattan hotels over a weekend.

The pass offers 20 per cent-off at many Lower Manhattan shops and attractions.

For tourists, perhaps the best way to see Lower Manhattan is to simply walk the neighbourhood.

I find it very moving to walk past the WTC site, still chained up, and past the Fire Department New York, just across the road on the appropriately named Liberty St.

A poster is propped up beside the door of the Fire Department, showing the faces of those firemen who died in the tragedy, with fresh flowers and candles left scattered around it.

Away from the WTC, there's plenty to explore in this bustling neighbourhood.

The Stock Exchange is no longer open to the public for visits, due to security concerns, although you can walk down Wall St.

The famous statue of the Wall Street bull remains a popular photo opportunity.

Wall Street

The area has many other attractions, especially its outstanding gothic architecture.

My favourite building is the exquisite 1910 neo-gothic Woolworth Building, on Broadway between Park Place and Barclay St.

With its pyramid-shaped, green-hued roof and spires, it's classic Gotham.

Much older is the Trinity Church on Wall St at 79 Broadway, which has history dating back to 1697.

The glorious Gothic Revival Episcopal church, which was finished in 1846, still has daily services and is a marvel of stained glass, with sculpted bronze doors and marble reredos.

The churchyard, which you can walk past and see the headstones, dates to 1681 and contains the remains of Alexander Hamilton, George Washington's friend and Secretary of the Treasury.

With more people living in the neighbourhood, there's an abundance of cafes and food stalls and on any day you might encounter markets.

To sit down to nosh, find the cobblestoned Stone St for a bevy of eateries.

Lower Manhattan

So while New York City was wounded by the attacks of a decade ago, the area most devastated is coming back to life, like a tree that has lost a limb but continues to shoot out new leaves. Go not only to see the new life there but the old.

Go2 New York

Getting there, Qantas flies from all Australian cities to New York daily.

Staying there, The Marriott Downtown (85 West St at Albany St, NYC, + 212 266 6137) is the ideal starting point to explore the neighbourhood and some parts of the hotel have direct views over the WTC site.

Rates start from about $US239 ($230) a night.

Elizabeth Meryment was a guest in New York of NYC & Company, Qantas and Marriott Hotels.

Visit nycgo.com and marriott.com

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