Taste of France in Akaroa

FRANCE's provincial character is evident in the scenic and relaxing town which is surrounded by rolling hills and has cosy cafes, bars and restaurants.

17 escape akaroa

IT'S no surprise that Akaroa is a favourite bolthole for the earthquake-battered residents of Christchurch.

After all they've been through, who can blame them for seeking to destress in one of the most picturesque and charming corners of the South Island? But international visitors are also discovering that Akaroa, an 80-minute drive from New Zealand's second-biggest city, is the antidote to stress. Whether it's for pure healing or a bit of calm before heading off to the ski slopes, a few days in this charming township can recharge even the most frazzled batteries. On the beautiful Banks Peninsula, Akaroa is a little bit of France in New Zealand. Established by French settlers in 1840, the area's French provincial character abounds. The character and names of the narrow streets still bear their heritage and there's the occasional fluttering Tricolore to fool you into thinking you've travelled much further than across the Tasman. Akaroa harbour is the crater of an extinct volcano, surrounded by rolling hills. Cosy cafes, bars and bakeries open on to the streets and harbour promenades. Just a stroll through the village is therapy, with a good sprinkling of boutique art-and-craft shops and galleries to mosey into. Then park yourself at a table and catch the last rays of the afternoon sun, glass of wine in hand. There are good reasons to get out on the harbour, which is teeming with marine life. Akaroa is the only destination where people can get up close and swim with the world's smallest and rarest dolphin - New Zealand's Hector's dolphin. On our second morning, we hopped on one of Black Cat Cruises' daily departures. It was a pleasant cruise through the harbour to the open ocean, with great views of the peninsula's volcanic sea cliffs. It took us about an hour to locate a pod of wild dolphins. Already in wetsuits - provided with snorkels by Black Cat - we were soon overboard, floating and flapping around with these intelligent mammals. The miniature dolphins like noise so we were invited to make plenty.Having exhausted my limited capacity for singing and treading water at the same time, I was back on the boat 10 minutes later, nursing a steaming mug of hot chocolate, which was a nice touch. For those seeking more than an idyllic setting to read a good book or eat, drink and sleep, Akaroa is renowned for its scenic walks, sailing and kayaking. There is a good variety of places to stay in Akaroa to suit all budgets. I stayed at the super-cosy Garthowen B&B, which affords panoramic ocean views and 5-star luxury. Hosts Sharon and Ian Moore did everything possible to ensure we got the most out of our short stay. One of the best surprises was the range of dining options. On the first night, we dined at Vangionis - a wonderful venue where diners can sample a great range of Mediterranean-style fare. My regret was that I didn't have time to try more restaurants. In truth, the biggest hindrance was I kept wanting to go back to Vangionis. Food buffs, or anyone with a sense of fun, should check out the Akaroa Cooking School, run by Lou and Anthony Bentley. The informal evening classes, in a great setting, cater for all levels of experience and are rounded off with a fantastic meal. Since opening the school in 2009, the husband-and-wife team have been on a mission to show kitchen cowards like myself that cooking doesn't have to be a chore. The school has just been named by Lonely Planet as one of the Top 10 places to learn to cook local cuisine in the world. No visit to Akaroa is complete without a visit to the Giant's House, a grand, old, French-style home, with a large terraced garden that is home to an ever-growing collection of flamboyant sculptures and mosaic designs. Eccentric owner and celebrated local artist Josie Marsh has been adding to her elegant abstract sculptures for the past 16 years. The fairytale garden is built into a hill so older visitors might struggle with the incline and at $20 an adult, some visitors might find admission steep as well. The house doubles as a B&B and each of its colourful rooms has an artistic theme.   --- The writer was a guest of Tourism New Zealand. -- * Go2 AKAROA - Getting there Air New Zealand flies to Christchurch daily from Sydney. Ph 13 24 76 or see airnew zealand.com.au Akaroa Shuttle has daily services between Christchurch and Akaroa. See akaroa shuttle.co.nz From Christchurch, it is an 80-minute drive to Akaroa. - Staying there Garthowen B&B has four rooms with ensuite bathrooms. Rooms have direct access on to a veranda overlooking the harbour.