Seven sights to see off the slopes in Aspen

ASPEN is one of North America's best ski resorts but it has plenty to like beyond the slopes, as Brian Johnston discovers.

aspen mountain

AS AN avid skier, I'd happily be the lead singer in a chorus of voices raised in praise of a holiday on the slopes.

But, truth be told, once you're away from the snow, isn't a ski holiday a little dull?

Many purpose-built ski resorts lack the soul of true towns. They have no history, predictable fondue restaurants and, most of all, inflated prices.

Not so in Aspen, which has so much on offer it tempts you to take the last run early just so you can fit it all in. So unstrap your board or pop your bindings. Here are seven ways to spend seven days (or at least evenings) doing things other than hitting the powder.

1. History at the J-Bar

Aspen wasn't built for skiing, with roots dating back to Wild West days.

In the 1890s, its silver-mining boom gave it six times the permanent population it has now.

You can see Aspen's past grandeur in the impressive limestone banks and mansions that line downtown streets. One of the most prominent is the Hotel Jerome, erected in 1889.

Settle in at the J-Bar, which still has its original pressed-tin ceiling and walls decorated with old newspaper clippings. Order an Aspen Crud just for old time's sake. The signature drink from Prohibition days is a vanilla milkshake hiding a good slosh of bourbon.

2. Counterculture at Woody Creek Tavern

Back before Angelina Jolie or even Barbra Streisand came to town, Aspen was a place for those who embraced the counterculture of the 1960s.

Woody Creek Tavern is a survivor from that era. No Aspen elegance here. The tavern is adjacent to a trailer park and was the hangout of writer Hunter S. Thompson, who ran for sheriff of the county in 1970 on a Freak Power ticket.

Inside, the walls are covered in counterculture memorabilia and press cuttings. The bar is renowned for its strong margaritas, so settle in for a pre-dinner drink and chat with the locals.

The rustic tavern atmosphere buzzes with energy, the food is hearty and cheap (Mexican specialties are best), and it could be quite late before you stagger out into the snow.

3. Aspen Mountain shrines

OK, so you'll have to strap on some skis to explore this curious surprise, hidden on the mountainside above town. Stray off piste on Aspen Mountain and, tucked away just out of sight of skiers-by, you'll find numerous impromptu shrines. Created by locals, the shrines are dedicated to the deceased greats of pop culture, from Elvis, Hendrix and Monroe to John Denver. They're basically trees hung with memorabilia, wind chimes, bottles, Tibetan prayer flags, silk flowers and photos, created by locals over the past 20 years. Michael Jackson's shrine features a pine tree hung with photographs and a dangling white glove. Hunter S. Thompson's shrine displays a bottle of Chivas, his favourite whisky.

The best known and most colourful is the shrine to The Grateful Dead's Jerry Garcia just off Ruthie's Run.

You'll be able to find some of the shrines yourself but, if you're not keen on skiing alone among the trees, ask a mountain ambassador to lead you to some of the more prominent sites.

4. Second-hand shops

Parts of downtown Aspen could be mistaken for Rodeo Drive thanks to their swanky boutiques. But mere mortals can follow the locals down side streets and enter the world of second-hand stores.

This is where exceedingly rich people leave their unwanted designer duds.

There are amazing bargains to be had at Suzie's Consignment, Aspen Thrift Shop and Little Bird.

You'll never know what's available on the day, but you can get ski gloves for a few dollars, North Face down jackets for $US10 ($9.80) and Prada ski pants or Fendi shoes for $US20.

5. Spa treatment at Viceroy Snowmass

The new Viceroy Snowmass combines European pizzazz with a Colorado ski lodge feel and understated elegance.

Even if you aren't staying at the hotel, a visit to its spa when you've finished a day on the slopes at Snowmass is a fine experience.

Treatments cost about $US165 for an hour, but there could hardly be a more agreeable indulgence.

Start off in a serene relaxation room where you can get your boot-cramped feet pressed with hot towels.

There's a range of treatments influenced by Asia, Scandinavia and native America from which to choose.

However, it would be hard to go past the deep-tissue massage by a masseuse who really knows how to apply the pressure.

Aspen's powder snow may be close to heaven, but this is bliss too.

6. Apres-ski delights

From the predictably swanky to the frankly skanky, Aspen's bars have all things for all people.

The young and snow-tanned in fashion-brand woollen hats start off at 39 Degrees Lounge, where they swill martinis.

Others wander about in the bar's animal-print robes before sliding into the giant outdoor hot tub.

From here you might want to head to various restaurant bars, where locals know you can get the same food at lower prices.

On the food front, Little Annie's has delicious deep-fried potatoes with sour cream. A shot and beer is only $US3 during happy hour.

Belly Up does a mean barbecue chicken and smoked mozzarella pizza.

7. Limelight Hotel

Opened in 2008, the Limelight is already something of a classic family hotel in Aspen.

Partly that's because of its location right in town.

It also has enormous rooms and a no-nonsense feel.

There's no proper restaurant, but you can get light Italian food in the very cosy lobby lounge, where pizzas are $US10 during happy hour, and live music draws in plenty of locals. Terrific beer-pairing three-course meals for $US40, offered twice a month, are other very sociable occasions.

The hotel offers some great complimentary activities to guests, such as snowshoe hire and family movie nights.

Also included is an all-day Inside Tracks ski on Aspen Mountain with a top Aspen professional, giving you the inside scoop on the slopes.

After all, skiing is what Aspen is all about. Well, at least some of the time, anyway.

The writer was a guest of Qantas and Aspen Ski Company.

Go2 - ASPEN

Getting there

Qantas flies from Sydney to Los Angeles, with well-timed onward connections to Aspen on American Airlines, making this the quickest journey to any ski resort in North America.

Visit qantas.com.au, ph 13 13 13.

Staying there Limelight Hotel has large rooms and a range of complimentary services including airport and ski transport and a ski valet.

Some packages also include lift tickets.

Visit limelightlodge.com

Drinking there

39 Degrees Lounge, Sky Hotel, 709 East Durant Ave, visit theskyhotel.com

Belly Up, 450 South Galena St, visit bellyupaspen.com

Little Annie's, 517 East Hyman Ave, visit littleannies.com

J-Bar, Jerome Hotel, 330 East Main St, visit aubergeresorts.com

Woody Creek Tavern, 2 Woody Creek Plaza, visit woodycreektavern.com

More: Visit aspensnowmass.com