Wellington: A quick stop in the world's coolest little capital

LONELY Planet declared her the "coolest little capital in the world" two years ago, she hasn't been the same since.

Wellington

WITH so many parties involved, it's difficult to lay any single blame. Of course, Lonely Planet played a big part, when two years ago it declared her the "coolest little capital in the world".

She was never going to be the same after that. Her head ballooned. Links to the comedy duo Flight of the Conchords and filmmaker Peter Jackson haven’t helped either.

Well, I’ve only got a day to prick this balloon. Wellington naysayers take your positions. With a compact city area of only 2km, this shouldn’t take long at all.

There are four precincts to explore: Cuba for funk, Lambton for shopping, Courtenay for nightlife and the Waterfront for culture and sea breezes. Let’s start there.

First stop is Te Papa Tongarewa, the country’s national museum, where New Zealand’s culture, treasures and stories are on display.

Historical and contemporary artworks and Maori exhibitions are spread over six levels. It’s huge.

Earthquake House, a simulation of New Zealand’s geological forces, literally shakes and rattles. Watch out for the flying cutlery draws. And there’s Phar Lap too. Well kind of – just his skeleton (his skin is in Melbourne and his heart in Canberra).

A 10 minute south-easterly walk from Te Papa along the waterfront takes in cafes, marinas and the inner city beach, Oriental Bay. Nice housing stock. Modern condos line the waterfront while behind them, tiers of timber houses rise up the hills of Mount Victoria.

Word is that international film luminaries are partial to the housing stock too. Residents include the likes of Sam Neill, Jane Campion, Emily Watson and Pete Postlethwaite. All unsubstantiated of course. Thumbs up for goss. Knuckles.

Let’s save Peter Jackson till later.

Back at the city centre, a pedestrian bridge from the waterfront leads into Wellington’s cultural hub, Civic Square.

The terracotta paved square is surrounded by the city’s town hall, library and visitor’s centre, as well as concert venues, including the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra home, and City Gallery Wellington. Throughout the city, dance, ballet and theatre also gets a look in.

City Gallery Wellington does a fine job at putting to rest any doubts that Wellington is innovative and progressive.

The gallery doesn’t have collections as such. Instead it prefers a continual showcase of contemporary visual arts, architecture and design from New Zealand and around the world. Heavy hitters galore.

One particular show features the work of a couple of South Korean women paying homage to Italian painter Michealangelo via ambient electro-pop love songs with subversive videos and other distractions. That kind of thing.

Another exhibition allowed for the entire Art-deco gallery building to be painted grey and then adorned with large coloured dots. Awesome.

Now to bo-ho central, Cuba. The partly pedestrianised Cuba Street and its offshoots, collectively known as Cuba, is where the cool kids hang out.

Cuba has vinyl record shops, tattoo parlours, book shops, vintage clothing shops, restaurants, cafes and bars. And there’s enough sprinkle of grunge and seediness to keep it real.

Even Bret McKenzie and Jemaine Clement from Flight of the Conchords hung out in bars around Cuba in their formative years.

Restaurants and cool bars, some very well hidden, along with a very rowdy nightlife strip, can also be found around Courtenay Place.

Before Wellington’s elevation to international hot spot, the city charmingly went up against New York for title of “city with more cafes, bars and restaurants per capita”. Around 180,000 people live in central Wellington. Well, there’s no denying there are plenty of places to hang out.

The Lambton area has the city’s main shopping strip, Lambton Quay. Same, same. But behind it is the cable car that takes you up the hill to the Botanic Garden for views of the city. A walk around the elevated 25-hectare garden offers orientation of the city and is pleasant to walk around its landscaped features and begonias and camellias.

Let’s say grandma cool.

Back to Peter Jackson. There’s no escaping the connection. The Oscar winning film Director, best known for The Lord of the Rings trilogy, who grew up around the city, has put Wellington firmly under the international filmmaking spotlight.

Weta, a visual effects company, which he created with other filmmakers in 1993, has won five Oscars for physical and digital effects it created for blockbusters such as The Lord of the Rings trilogy, King Kong and Avatar.

All the magic is revealed at Weta Cave, with workshop demonstrations, displays, props and characters from the movies. The Weta complex is only a 20 minute drive from the city.

Wellingtonians are a proud lot. But weren’t so keen on the proposal to erect a “Wellywood” sign, similar to that of Hollywood’s in their hills. A public outcry stopped that idea. Not cool, they reckoned.

However, most agreed they liked the idea of a sign, but one that better reflected the greater city and region.

If you’re lucky enough to start or finish your coach tour in Wellington, then you’ll be well placed to explore it. Hutt Valley, where seaside communities meet forest trails is less than 30 minutes away, and a little further, less than 1 hour, is Wairarapa wine country, where small towns host luxury retreats.

This is a city where credit is due. No bubble to burst here, I’m afraid. Next city, please driver.