Waiheke wined and dined

HAVING spent five days frolicking around Waiheke Island's rolling hills, top wineries and olive groves, Sandra Killen just didn't want to leave Auckland.

IF I were moving to Auckland, I'd live on Waiheke Island.

A 35-minute ferry ride, or 45 minutes on the car barge, and you are transported from a city of more than a million to a magical island of 8000 residents.

Although, make that 50,000 in holiday season.

Imagine green rolling hills, pretty sandy coves, walking tracks, about 30 art galleries, fishing shacks and architectural masterpieces . . . oh, and top-class wineries and olive groves that flourish in its benign Mediterranean climate.

Yes, this lovely, low-key location boasts some of New Zealand's famed wine producers. In fact, Waiheke Island has 30 island vineyards just waiting for you to savour their pride and joy.

These businesses are stamping their names on the world scene – winning international awards, hosting famous people such as Sean Connery, putting on dance parties (yes at a winery), feeding the discerning at the fine restaurants that often adjoin their vineyards and providing a guaranteed photo-friendly backdrop for brides and grooms.

For a taste of the level of sophistication, put a meal at Mudbrick vineyard and restaurant on your must-do list.

Mudbrick boasts two chefs who have worked in Michelin-starred restaurants (Kevin Morgan and Andreas Lindberg), and if you're not happy with your NZ Pure Black Angus Grass-Fed Eye Fillet for $NZ40, I'll eat my words.

Party for the palate

The lavender-filled gardens and views to the coast add to the charm and make Mudbrick a top wedding venue.

Stonyridge is another fine example, with its specialist ultra-premium organic red wines and its Verandah Cafe which overlooks a valley of vines and olive trees. Its cult Stonyridge Larose – one of the world's top Bordeaux-style reds blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot – can cost a hearty $200 a bottle. Not for an unappreciative palate.

And while owner Stephen White welcomes pretentious wine snobs, he has introduced four dance parties a year to bring the joys of wine to a younger generation who may have chosen drugs for their thrills. The mind-altering experience you'll find at Stonyridge is much more fun, he promises.

Back to nature

From a bohemian background, Waiheke Island has become an exclusive mecca for the rich and famous with multimillion-dollar houses popping up on the hills – understated design favoured over McMansions – and beach shacks still standing in the villages.

Auckland has many islands off its harbour and, while some are devoted to people, others such as Tiritiri Matangi, with its endangered plant and bird sanctuary, are all about nature.

But landlubbers don't despair. Auckland itself has enough to keep you going for days without stopping.

Culture club

If its culture you seek, go straight to the Auckland Domain where the majestic Auckland Museum brims with fabulous treasures. Its Maori cultural displays are, as they should be, second to none.

The Domain itself is a manicured 75ha park developed around the cone of an extinct volcano with a natural amphitheatre, sports grounds, formal gardens and duck ponds. Nice for a jog.

For a funky shopping/eating/people watching experience, head down Karangahape Rd (known locally as K'Road). Taxi drivers warn newbies to the city to steer clear at night time, but just think of it as Fortitude Valley and take care.

It's a former red light district that's going through a similar transformation as the Valley did some years ago. Thus you'll find tattoo parlours, Turkish kebab shops, cafes, nightclubs, wine bars, art galleries, design stores and op shops cheek to cheek. Very colourful.

We stayed at The Langham Hotel on Symonds St which is a handy location if you like to do a bit of walking (no problem if you don't – they have an efficient shuttle service). The Langham (formerly The Sheraton until 2006 and a $NZ12 million renovation) is just around the corner from the top of K'Road, just over a bridge from the Domain, a 15-minute walk to the city and a 20-minute walk to Viaduct Harbour.

The hotel also boasts award-winning restaurant Partingtons (thanks to its 25-year-old chef de cuisine Kirk McLean and executive chef Ofir Yudilevich) – a tough act to follow.

I'm sure Kiwis reading this will scoff at my omissions. Sorry, but five days in Auckland simply isn't long enough!

Haere ra. Goodbye.