Lazing in a luxury island paradise

IF you are planning an escape to paradise in 2008, look no further than the coral reefs and palm-fringed white-as-white sand beaches of Aitutaki in the Cook Islands.

IT'S a strangely sensual "spa" experience: a tingly fish massage.

I kid you not. We slide into Aitutaki's amazingly turquoise lagoon for a snorkel, then shoot to the surface yelping. Hundreds of tiny, electric-hued fish have just nibbled all over us.

Shock subsiding, we flipper on and for an hour revel in the nibbles, the coral formations and other exotic marine life that weave their way through these waters.

This South Sea island paradise – part of the Cook Islands group – is made up of 14 motus, or islets, set in a spectacular and fairly shallow 12km by 20km (5058ha) lagoon.

The deepest part is just 10m and the bonus here is... no sharks. That's guaranteed – just kilometres of brilliantly coloured coral reefs and palm-fringed white-as-white sand beaches.

Aitutaki is an "almost atoll" – part volcanic and part atoll, with Polynesian myth contending it's a giant fish tethered to the seabed by a vine from the air.

Whatever the belief – island folk once worshipped Polynesian gods but were the first in the Cooks to convert to Christianity when the missionaries lobbed in the 1820s – Aitutaki is definitely a pocket patch of paradise.

If you're not into a laid-back time warp, forget about coming here. But if you are looking for an indolent laze far from the madding crowd, Aitutaki delivers.

Cocktails by the pool

There's a good range of accommodation here, from backpacker to budget, moderate to high-end. We go all-out and opt for the latter, ensconcing ourselves into a villa at the boutique Etu Moana Resort for three days and nights.

Etu Moana – which means blue starfish in the Cook Islands language – is both an elegant and peaceful getaway.

Owners Jo-Anne and Jim Brittijn have created eight modern, Polynesian-style thatched villas, surrounded by volcanic rocks, lush tropical gardens and a lagoon.

There's hardwood floors, exposed timbers, teak furniture, natural stone counters, local art, super-king size beds, air conditioning, ceiling fans, CD and DVD, satellite TV, in-house movies, marble bathrooms and even an outdoor garden shower "room".

Aside from all the mod cons, there's the huge covered veranda boasting two massive day beds. Here we loll at day's end, cocktails in hand from the pool bar – operated on an honour system – and gaze out over the lagoon to the multi-hued sunsets.

The villas also come with fully-equipped kitchens – gas burner cook top, stove, microwave, full-size fridge and freezer, purified drinking water tap and, for fans of kitsch, a George Foreman grill!

The stay comes with complimentary tropical breakfasts – granola, juice, coffee, breads and fresh fruits – either beside the pool or taken up to your villa.

Sunset veranda feasting

The absence of a restaurant on site is a blessing in disguise. It gives you the chance to explore the island and taste the local fare or stock up and cook for yourself. We do both.

Try the Blue Nun on Saturday nights and join in with the locals. Or Samade's On The Beach for lunch or dinner and Cafe Tupuna or Te Vaka for dinner.

There's mud crabs, parrot fish, octopus in a mild curry and coconut sauce, fish marinated in lime and lemon juice and coconut milk, and ripe, cooked fruit mixed with arrowroot starch and coconut cream. There's also shellfish, pancakes and fritters. In between the eat-out sampling, we ride our push bikes to the local store and stock up on cheese and nibbles for lunch and sunset veranda feasting.

Aitutaki's main island is not huge but parts of it are a bit much for the bikes, so hire a scooter or a buggy to go exploring.

Aitutaki – discovered by Captain Bligh in 1789, just 17 days before the notorious mutiny – has roads red brown in the centre and coral white on the fringes. There are banana plantations and coconut groves and gigantic Banyan trees.

Trek to the summit of Maungapu – a leisurely half hour walk to the west of the island with sweeping views; explore old Christian churches made of coral rock and limestone, and marai – the stone temples where Polynesian gods were worshipped before the missionaries landed.

The lazier can take in a local coconut oil massage.

Then, of course, there's the whole of that lagoon to explore.

During the 1950s the lagoon was used as a stopover for the old TEAL (Tasman Empire Airways Limited) flying boats on the famous Coral Route.

Two of its islets, Rapota and Moturakau, were locations for two series of UK reality TV program Shipwrecked. Aitutaki has featured in the Survivor series.

Romantic escape

Take a cruise to Tapuate – commonly known as One Foot Island, a popular picnic and snorkelling spot for day trips.

It has a post office where you can have your passport stamped – and a single cabin that can be rented for the night by visitors.

Another popular stop-off is Honeymoon Island, where boats can be hired for a romantic couple's picnic on an uninhabited islet. Or take a cruise at dawn, during the day or at sunset.

For the energetic there's an 18-hole golf course, 4WD safari tours and horse riding along beaches and hinterland.

Fisherfolk can go lagoon angling for bonefish, cod, snapper, trevally, humphead maori wrasse and other reef fish, or take a deep sea charter.

Scuba divers will find an exotic array of life in the ocean around the island -- the fringe reef has walls, wrecks, caves, coral and sea life.

And, for a great hoot, don't miss out on the night landcrab hunt.

Far from the madding crowd Aitutaki may well be but it sure isn't boring.