What Aussies get wrong about iconic US food
A visit to America’s third-largest city has exposed the sin hundreds of Aussie tourists make about one if its most beloved foods.
There’s one sin you should avoid committing above all others during a visit to Chicago.
In America’s third-largest city, thou shalt not ask for ketchup on a hot dog, under any circumstances. It’s a rule so unbreakable Chicagoan and former US President Barack Obama once told Anthony Bourdain it’s the one thing you should “never” do.
A choose-your-own-adventure, Bunnings snag this is not. Lest you offend the locals, your hot dog will comprise the following elements, and no others: a bun that is steamed, never toasted, and laden with poppy seeds; an all-beef sausage that is boiled or steamed, never grilled; yellow mustard; neon-green, pickle relish; minced, raw onions; a dill pickle spear that lays parallel to the sausage; fresh tomato; pickled peppers; and a sprinkling of celery salt.
The combination’s not for everyone (including me), but worth trying at least once during a visit to the city.
A five-day visit late last year was not nearly enough time to explore Chicago — which has 77 neighbourhoods — in its entirety. But it still provided ample opportunity to get a taste of what’s on offer (not just hot dogs): an inventive restaurant scene, world-class museums, and a grand skyline, the sheer scale of which leaves you awe-struck, no matter the perspective you’re looking at it from.
With a terrain not dissimilar to Melbourne’s, it’s also a refreshingly easy city to get around on foot (or hop on one of the famed elevated trains, which rattle around like a cartoon rollercoaster).
How to get to Chicago
Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Chicago three times a week, with connections from Sydney and Melbourne.
There’s been “growing demand” for the service since it resumed in 2022, Air New Zealand long haul general manager, Scott Carr, told news.com.au, offering Aussies “one of the most direct routes to the Windy City, with Auckland providing to be an excellent connecting point”.
“Chicago is also a hub for customers exploring the northeast of North America and beyond,” he said.
“Aboard the airline’s Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner aircraft, customers seeking a “little extra comfort” have myriad options, whatever their budget.
“For ultra long haul travel like our Auckland to Chicago route … we’re seeing more select Premium Economy as their cabin of choice.
“This provides additional space and comfort as well as premium food and beverage options, giving customers an elevated experience at an appealing price point.
“Air New Zealand’s Premium Economy provides customers with an excellent selection of New Zealand wines, and a menu full of unique New Zealand ingredients such as hāpuka (fish) and New Zealand lamb.”
Mr Carr said Premium Economy customers also get to experience Aotea skincare in their amenity kits, which showcase indigenous ingredients like kawakawa, harakeke, and mamaku.
“Our crew are also on hand to provide the much-loved and uniquely Air New Zealand service. Manaaki is our promise, which means we take care further than any other airline.”
That, they most certainly do; no matter where you’re seated throughout the plane, the crew on my flights to and from Chicago are faultless.
Where to stay in Chicago
My five nights in Chicago were spent at the Thompson. Nestled within the manicured, historic mansion-lined streets of the city’s Gold Coast neighbourhood, the hotel is a hop, skip and jump from Lake Michigan and the Magnificent Mile.
With 247 rooms and suites, Thompson has everything a guest could need – including being pet-friendly – and a delicious on-site restaurant, Nico Osteria, which offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, daily.
What to do in Chicago
Apart from its food, the one thing Chicago’s renowned for is its architecture.
Drifting down the Chicago River on one of the First Lady Architecture River Cruises, it’s not hard to see why – or why the tours, run by the Chicago Architecture Centre, are considered a ‘must do’, whether it’s your first visit or your 14th.
The experience is far and away my favourite part of the trip, and treats passengers to views of the city’s iconic skyline that can’t be seen from the street. It’s also an excellent way to learn about Chicago’s history, and get a grip on its layout.
For a different – and more nerve-racking – perspective of the city, head to The Ledge at Willis Tower.
Not one for the faint of heart, multiple glass balconies extend four feet outside the 103rd floor of Chicago’s tallest building (a cool 412 metres in the air) and offer views that span as far as four of Illinois’ surrounding states, as well as a bird’s-eye view that is truly unmatched.
When it comes to entertainment after dark, there’s no shortage of options.
Even if your understanding of baseball is subpar at best (or, in my case, completely void), it’s worth catching a game at Wrigley Field, which has been home to the Chicago Cubs for more than 100 years.
Otherwise, catch an improv show at The Second City – the theatre’s alumni range from Bill Murray and Stephen Colbert to Tina Fey and Amy Sedaris.
Or, pay a visit the Kingston Mines for a drink, some music and a late-night snack. Founded in 1968, the venue is the largest and oldest continuously-operating blues club in Chicago.
Where to eat in Chicago
If Emmy-award winning TV series The Bear has proven anything since it aired in June 2022 (aside from the magnetism of a brooding young chef), it’s that Chicago’s food scene is a thriving one.
Whatever your tastes – whether Michelin-starred or simply craving a slice of pizza (deep-dish or otherwise) – there’s undoubtedly an eatery to satisfy them.
For breakfast or a light lunch, neighbourhood coffeehouse Beatrix has a number of locations across the city.
Beloved for its coffee and bakery counter, the menu is laden with a number of healthy options, providing some welcome (gastrointestinal) relief.
Another spot worth checking out for brunch is Foxtrot – home to easily the best coffee I had in Chicago, and ample dine-in and takeaway options.
The real drawcard, however, is its grocery offering; described by Fast Company as “America’s most influential corner store”, it melds classic American brands with specialty items and local favourites.
Like most American cities, Chicago has a broad selection of steakhouses to tickle your fancy.
Gibsons Italia is one such venue. The waterfront offshoot of the renowned Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse, one of the city’s leading restaurants since 1989, its menu is packed with seafood and steak, as well as pasta.
Open-air rooftop venue bar avec offers a welcome reprieve from Chicago’s bustling streets.
Inspired by the leisurely style of seaside diners in coastal Spanish and Portuguese towns on the Iberian Peninsula, grab a drink and make the most of its sweeping views of the city skyline at sunset.
Dinner at UMMO is a standout. The contemporary Italian restaurant, helmed by chef José Sosa, champions simplicity and quality, seasonal ingredients.
If you find yourself in Wicker Park, head to the Violet Hour, a James-Beard Award-winning cocktail bar hidden behind a discreet, single entryway.
Inside, seat yourself within one of three salons or at the sprawling marble bar, and enjoy one (or two) of the pre-prohibition style beverages on offer.
This writer travelled to Chicago as a guest of Air New Zealand and Choose Chicago