Waves are a shore thing

THE true stars of Oahu's famed North Shore aren't the actors in TV series Lost or musician Jack Johnson. They're the monster waves that roll in every winter.

Hallelujah ... Haleiwa on Oahu's North Shore tosses monster rides to surfers throughout winter / Reuters

THE true stars of Oahu's famed North Shore aren't the actors in the TV series Lost or top-selling musician Jack Johnson.

THE true stars of the Hawaiian island of Oahu's famed North Shore aren't the actors in the TV series Lost or top-selling musician Jack Johnson.

They're the monster waves that roll in every winter.

The rest of the year, when the 8m surf and the crowds are long gone, the North Shore returns to its usual laid-back, country lifestyle – perfect for swimming, golfing, hiking, snorkelling or a lazy day at the beach.

The remote coastline stretches for more than 30km and seems a world away from the high-rise jungle in Honolulu. But it's actually only about an hour away by car, or two hours with a stop to stretch at the Dole Plantation.

Driving along Kamehameha Highway, keep an eye out for the colourful Haleiwa sign directing you to food, petrol, shops and beaches. If you spot the sign, featuring a surfer catching a wave, take a picture while it's still there. The signs are stolen more often than unattended bags on the beach.

The town of Haleiwa is the gateway to the North Shore, with gift stores, surf shops, restaurants, art galleries and real estate companies peddling a piece of paradise.

You won't find the Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton brands that dot Kalakaua Ave in Waikiki. The big names here are Local Motion, Billabong and Quiksilver.

It's also where Queen Liliuokalani, Hawaii's last reigning monarch, spent her summers.

A trip here is never complete without stopping at Matsumoto's, known for its shaved ice, Hawaii's version of snow cones.

There's usually a line out the door at this place that has served Hollywood stars such as Tom Hanks and Adam Sandler, who wore a Matsumoto's T-shirt in the film 50 First Dates.

A giant cone with vanilla ice cream or azuki beans inside will cost you $2.60. There are dozens of flavours, but rainbow (strawberry, pineapple and lemon) and the Hawaiian (pineapple, coconut and banana) are top-sellers at Matsumoto's, a North Shore favourite since 1951.

Another must-eat North Shore treat is fresh Kahuku shrimp. Cooked and sold from up to six large trucks along the road in Kahuku, a plate costs about $15.70 and includes a couple of scoops of rice and about a dozen shrimp.

I'm still a fan of Giovanni's, next to the old Kahuku Sugar Mill. Its signature dish is the shrimp scampi, which is covered in garlic, with a side of fiery sauce.

Giovanni's white truck is covered with graffiti and messages of customers from around the world.

There are many activities to build your appetite, even with no waves to surf. Shark's Cove is one of the great snorkelling spots. It's across the street from the Foodland supermarket.

You can go skydiving or take a glider ride from Dillingham Airfield in Mokuleia, watch birds at the Waimea Valley Audubon Centre, hike at Kaena Point, tour the sleepy former sugar town of Waialua or simply relax and watch the sun go down at Sunset Beach.

Sunday Mail (SA)