US chef’s ‘secret’ Aussie ingredient in popular dish

Americans keep telling us how much they hate this Aussie classic, but an Australian in the US has found a way to make them love what they think they despise “by stealth”.

IN WASHINGTON DC

If there’s one Australian culinary speciality that Americans despise, it’s our beloved salty brown paste we swear by every morning.

Remember, the US is the nation where multiple Aussie celebrities have gone on late night chat shows and forced retching hosts to sample Vegemite slathered toast in an effort to turn the tide of stateside yeast extract anger.

Yet to no avail. They’re just not that into it.

But in Washington DC, a crafty Australian cook is introducing disbelieving Americans to the wonders of yeast extract, one brunch at a time. And they have no idea.

“It’s Vegemite by stealth,” Fiona Lewis told news.com.au.

It’s not the only notable – and sometimes unusual quick bite – being served up in the US capital.
That includes the $12 takeaway from an unassuming eatery that has made history – and presidents and celebs can be seen getting in line to grab a taste of.

Hugh Jackman tried to make US chat show host Jimmy Fallon like Vegemite. He failed.

If you think DC is just a dour town of politics and bureaucracy, plenty of locals are determined to make you think again.

Just three hours by train from New York, this city of 5.5 million has been in the shadow of its bigger neighbour. But now it wants to shine.

Washington DC isn’t just suits and politics . (Photo by Richard PIERRIN / AFP)

In 2025, for instance, Washington DC will hold World Pride, the globe’s biggest LGBTI festival which Sydney hosted in 2023 to much acclaim.

And while central DC may be government departments galore, the nearby neighbourhoods are increasingly strutting their stuff.

One of the most exciting is the Union Market District. Located just north of the beautiful, bustling, Union Station – the city’s main transport hub – what used to be a wholesale market is now the epicentre of Washington’s new dining and retail trends.

It’s a marvellously, messy tangle of an area with the established and emerging cheek by jowl.

The established are cash and carry fresh produce outlets and strip light lit stores selling bold West African fashions.

Alongside is the emerging: Levantine eatery Yellow serving up crunchy, sticky baklavas, and Serenata where cocktail innovator Andra “AJ” Johnson whips up Latino delights like spicy margaritas and Oaxaca old fashioneds.

Andra “AJ” Johnson from Serenata cocktail bar in Washington DC. Picture: Benedict Brook

DC pushes back on dull

Libby Rasmussen and Rajni Rao, respectively of elevated second hand clothing sellers Libby & My and Jungli Vintage, have just brought Vintage, Vintage, Vintage to the district. It brings together a range of vintage sellers’ togs into one schmick space.

“There’s this idea of the Capitol Hill attire, what is expected to be worn in DC,” said Ms Rasmussen.

“But that is only for one subgroup of people who usually come here for a term or two, for whoever they’re working for the administration.

“But DC fashion is actually really lively and rich, beautiful and colourful. This is just a taste of what people in DC want to wear.

Libby Rasmussen and Rajni Rao, respectively of elevated second hand clothing sellers Libby and My and Jungli Vintage. Picture: Tony Powell

On Toast and Immigrant Food at Union District Market, Washington DC. Picture: Benedict Brook

“It’s a very black city and a very queer city. And also Generation Z is really turning things upside down.”

Ms Rasmussen said she loved the clash of businesses in Union Market District.

“The Mexican market across the street, and the Italian deli that’s been here for years.

“It’s very much this high-low kind of neighbourhood.”

Famously, Americans hate this. Picture: NCA NewsWire / Damian Shaw

‘Vegemite by stealth’

Within the Union Market building is a cacophony of food choices. Bagels from Buffalo & Bergen are bursting at the seams. Immigrant Food, which – no surprises – highlights the food cultures of those who have emigrated to DC.

One of those immigrants is from Australia, and she’s very sneakily introducing DC locals to Vegemite. So sneakily, they have no idea they’re eating it.

Victorian Fiona Lewis runs The District Fishwife, a full service fishmonger that also serves up poke bowls and fish and chips.

Fiona Lewis, the Aussie running District Fishwife in Washington DC. Picture: Facebook.

But it’s On Toast, a side project also in the market, where the yeast extract skulduggery is occurring.

Order the classic Avo toast at On Toast and hiding between the pulpy avocado, salty feta, za’atar and the grainy bread is the slightest streak of Vegemite.

But how do you keep Vegemite a secret?

“You don’t tell anyone that it’s there,” says Ms Lewis, matter of factly.

“It’s light and it just kind of enhances and adds a richness to it.

“It’s Vegemite by stealth”.

And Washingtonians love the secret smear – it’s On Toast’s bestseller.

The Avo toast at On Toast in Union Market with its secret Vegemite ingredient. Picture: Benedict Brook

$12 takeaway that’s part of history

There’s nothing secret about the punchy flavours at Ben’s Chili Bowl, located on U Street, north of DC’s CBD.

The brassy exterior is like a cross between a 1950s diner and an old time movie theatre – appropriate because it indeed used to be a cinema.

Everyone has been here, from Barack Obama to chef Anthony Bourdain.

Ben’s Chili Bowl on U Street.

Ben’s was founded in 1958 by Indo-Trinidadian immigrant Ben Ali and his wife Virginia.

During the 1968 riots, that followed the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr, Ben’s Chili Bowl stayed open late into the night, feeding protesters and firefighters cementing its place as a cornerstone of the black community.

It’s now a landmark of Washington’s African-American community which is reflected in its status as an official DC historic property.

Inside it’s like stepping back in time. Not fancy but homely and warming.

The chili smokes – hot dogs – come slathered with a rich concoction of beef and pork.

Then US president-elect Barack Obama at Ben's Chili Bowl on January 10, 2009 in Washington, DC. Obama ordered a chili half smoke at the Washington landmark. Picture: AFP/Mandel Ngan

The chili bowl, the cheapest of which is just $12, is a no fuss serving in a simple cardboard bowl of a hearty turkey and kidney bean chilli, topped with crunchy slivers of raw onion, cheddar cheese and a generous dollop of sour cream.

Before long, the cheese and chilli combine into an indulgent melty mouthful.

It could just be the cheapest, most filling, meal in all DC.

Bens Chili Bowl, Washington DC. Picture: Benedict Brook

For a lunchtime dish with even more history, Martin’s Tavern in ritzy Georgetown fits the bill.

Founded in 1933, this neighbourhood bar cum bistro boasts an impressive presidential past that rivals Ben’s Chili Bowl.

It was here in 1953 where John F Kennedy proposed to the then Jacqueline Bouvier in one of the dark wooden booths that look out towards Wisconsin Ave.

Martin's Tavern, Georgetown, Washington DC was where JFK proposed. Picture: Georgetown BID

Take a seat at what is now known as the “proposal booth,” and take a food tour into pure Americana: creamy clam chowder soup with crunchy oyster crackers followed by piquant fried green tomatoes. If you have room, there’s the main event of the London Broil – thinly cut beef with comforting garlic mash and truffle butter.

Georgetown may be more suited and booted that the trendy Union Market District, but across DC the food is anything but every day.

The reporter travelled with the assistance of Destination DC