After committing an ultimate sin in LA’s party neighbourhood West Hollywood, I found refuge in an Aussie-owned eatery

It’s the neighbourhood famed for its hard partying, where anything goes – except one fashion ‘sin’. Thankfully a pair of Aussie restaurateurs are keeping it real.

West Hollywood is the hip party neighbourhood of Los Angeles, home to heaving bars, trendy restaurants, and countless boutiques and galleries, where anything goes.

Well, almost anything, I discover when arriving at a Mexican diner housed in the lobby of a recently opened boutique hotel.

“You can’t come in wearing those,” the maître de tells me.

She gestures at my tailored navy blue Ralph Lauren shorts, paired with a simple linen white shirt, which I thought would be more than suitable for an early 5.30pm reservation – especially pre-sunset on a balmy 32C day.

I’ve dashed straight from a wine tour in Malibu and I’ve got a jazz club show to get to, so there’s no time to rush back to my hotel to change and return for my booking.

I wind up eating a packet of cashews from the minibar inside my chic suite at the stunning Kimpton La Peer while ironing a pair of slacks and kicking myself for not staging some kind of Pretty Woman-esque scene at the restaurant.

West Hollywood is arguably the coolest neighbourhood in Los Angeles.

WeHo is famed for its thriving night-life and excellent food scene. Picture: Saint Peter John

My first few hours in West Hollywood aren’t off to a great start and I wake on Saturday nervously reassessing the limited, early autumn-heavy wardrobe I’ve packed for this two-day sojourn.

Given the embarrassing experience, I’m nervous about looking my semi-formal best when I head out to lunch. It’s hot again, but I’m wearing pants – just to be safe – and well on my way to chaffing when I arrive at Great White.

There’s a line out the door and around the corner. This uber trendy eatery has received rave reviews since opening and LA locals and visitors alike are keen to get in.

All-day dining that embraces the outdoors is the order of the day at Great White.

And many of them are wearing shorts.

“Do you have a dress code?” I ask my waitress when I’m seated.

“A dress code?” she says, a bemused look on her face. “In WeHo? No, of course not.”

Of course not indeed.

Despite being one of the hottest eateries in the neighbourhood, it turns out Great White isn’t up itself for one key reason.

It’s owned by Australians.

“Something we love about the hospitality in Australia is that it’s welcoming, honest, laid-back and full of personality,” co-founder Sam Trude explains.

“It’s not forced or rehearsed. This is something we strive for across all Great White locations – promoting a culture where ultimately everyone can be themselves and enjoy themselves.”

Trude and his business partner Sam Cooper grew up together in Sydney and went to the same high school, reconnecting when they both lobbed in Los Angeles.

Sam and Sam, the childhood mates behind booming LA hospitality hotspot Great White.

Like many expats, they found themselves reminiscing about their favourite all-day cafes back at home and wondered why a similar concept hadn’t been done in California, which leant itself perfectly to a casual, outdoorsy and fresh hospitality offering.

“The weather, lifestyle and landscape are so similar to that of Sydney and other coastal Australian cities,” Cooper said.

“We saw a gap in the market in LA for a casual, all-day concept that serves fresh produce prepared simply and thoughtfully and delivered in a casual and friendly way, and decided it was up to us to create it.”

Great White is proudly inviting and warm – shorts included.

Great White is turning heads in Los Angeles for bringing a taste of Australian hospitality to the US.

Their WeHo location is their third.

“This part of West Hollywood is particularly interesting as it seamlessly connects all the different layers of the area, from the entertainment to the night-life to the tourism,” Trude said.

The space was totally enclosed when the boys came across it, but now stands as a kind of monument to indoor-outdoor dining that’s visible from the street, enticing those wandering by to wander in.

Its design keeps with Great White’s signature style of European-inspired aesthetics, with plastered walls, softwoods, clay wall lights, large woven pendants and Zellige tiles throughout.

The hand-applied plaster covering the walls is in a specially designed shade of pink – the very same colour adorning Cooper’s childhood home back in Australia.

Great White is one of the hottest eateries in West Hollywood.

All-day dining that embraces the outdoors is the order of the day.

The setting, architecture and interiors, and sense of hospitality have certainly turned heads and Great White in WeHo has had a roaring trade.

“It feels humbling and exciting to have a supportive community behind us,” Trude said.

“We have locals who visit their neighbourhood location multiple times a week, sometimes daily.

“We also get visitors from all over the world who come by to experience something new yet feel a familiarity that is hard to explain without experiencing it yourself.”

Looking for other WeHo activities? Check out the Sun Rose, an intimate music venue inside The Pendry Hotel.

Get a taste of the neighbourhood – and beyond – with Bikes and Hikes.

But the food has also gone down a treat.

I start with a mixed greens salad that’s fresh and crisp, followed by steak frites with a prime New York strip that’s so tender it almost melts on the fork.

I know you’re supposed to drink red with steak, but I had probably two glasses too many last night and can’t stomach the thought, so I opt for a glass of chenin blanc from Maison d’Amis, a boutique vineyard in the Napa Valley.

The good times roll from day through to night.

Great White's growth is proof that the boys have cracked a winning formula.

And call me tragic, but I can’t go past the pavlova for dessert. Why not when I feel so much at home in this faraway but somehow familiar place?

The boys have just opened their fourth location in Brentwood, joining their existing spots in WeHo, Venice and Larchmont Village.

“One of the most exciting elements of expanding the brand is immersing ourselves in all the unique pockets in and around Los Angeles and curating elements of our experience to meet the needs of that specific customer,” Cooper said.

“We have some exciting locations in the pipeline for Great White and always have something up our sleeves at our Venice sister restaurant and cocktail lounge, Gran Blanco.”

While you’re in West Hollywood

I’m reassured that my shorts-phobic experience is unusual for this very lively part of Los Angeles, more on par with “anything goes” than “not in those”.

And it’s a fantastic neighbourhood to base yourself in.

Kimpton La Peer is an ultra-chic boutique hotel right in the thick of the action.

The pool and alfresco bar at the Kimpton La Peer are a real highlight.

Kimpton La Peer is an ultra-chic boutique hotel right in the thick of the action, with oversized rooms, a pool, and an absolutely pumping bar.

The Sun Rose is an intimate music venue inside The Pendry that’s fast becoming a hotspot on the famed Sunset Strip thanks to its full calendar of shows.

By day, witness everything WeHo has to offer with a two-hour e-bike tour with Bikes and Hikes, exploring Santa Monica Boulevard, the Design District, and the Sunset Strip.

When you’re hungry, head to Great White at 8917 Melrose Avenue – walk-ins welcome and bookings from 4pm encouraged. It’s open Monday to Sunday, 8am to 10pm.

How to get there

Qantas operates direct flights to Los Angeles from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane.

The journalist travelled to Los Angeles as a guest of Qantas and dined at Great White as a guest of West Hollywood Tourism