California dreaming

SAN Francisco is a culinary and visual delight, writes Sean Condon who started eating right away and didn't stop for several days.

Icon ... the Golden Gate bridge

I WAS hungry when I got to San Francisco. And boy, did I go to the right place.

Apart from being a very beautiful city – it's home to the best skyscraper in the US, the Transamerica Pyramid – and pleasingly small compared with Los Angeles, San Francisco's restaurants are the best in the country.

I started eating right away and didn't stop for several days.

The finest fine-dining experience of my life (so far) was at the Ritz-Carlton's dining room. At the risk of going over the top, this was outstanding contemporary French cuisine in an elegant atmosphere and impeccable service from a phalanx of friendly, knowledgeable staff.

If I were the king of California, I would rule my kingdom from that spot at the top of Nob Hill.

As it was, I spent an all-too-brief seven hours there eating and drinking the best I've seen – champagne by the glass from an antique champagne cart, a fine selection of digestifs, a truly mouth-watering menu that put a neat, modern spin on old classics – not unlike the city itself.

San Francisco is like a little bit of Europe plonked down in the New World – charming yet slightly brash, there's sophistication and sleaze, it's ultra-modern, confident and rich (late 1990s' dotcom boom) yet there's plenty of poverty and desperation (dotcom bomb 2001).

In a small city, with so many different and distinct neighbourhoods nestling cheek-by-jowl you can see equal measures of everything just by walking.

Take the historic Barbary Coast trail, cross (or just stare at) Golden Gate Bridge, visit Alcatraz, give out your spare change around Haight-Ashbury or the Tenderloin, sample free chowder at any number of fishy restaurants around Fisherman's Wharf or take a trolley car up and down some steep hills.

Due to my rapidly expanding waistline I took a long walk through funky North Beach up to Coit Tower on Telegraph Hill.

Because of the aforementioned waistline, the plod-footed struggle up stairs and steps and hills and inclines to the beautiful, shady gardens on the hill almost killed me.

I knew that if I lived in San Francisco I'd have to give up smoking. California is good for your health.

With great relief I took an elevator to the top of the tower from which I enjoyed fantastic 360-degree views of the city, the bay and the glittering blue Pacific.

Isn't it nice that the people who prefer Los Angeles to San Francisco live there?

Now for some bests ...

The best hotdog in California can be found at a neat little French bistro called the Butler and the Chef, 155A South Park, San Francisco.

A giant beef dog in a warm baguette with mustard and cornichons is quite a pleasure.

The best tree is the Lone Cypress, on the famous Seventeen Mile Drive just outside Monterey. If you're in the neighbourhood, drop by and visit the 250-year-old tree. It's a pleasant 90-minute drive and, as the name implies, it's lonely.

San Francisco's Chinatown is deservedly famous for what might just be the best Chinese food in the world – including China. Lovers of Hunan, Szechuan and Cantonese will be in heaven.

The best – and best-priced – dim sum is at New Asia, 772 Pacific Avenue.

The best house in California is the Hearst Castle at San Simeon. It took 30 years and $10 million to build and, among other jaw-dropping features, offers incredible views of the valleys and ocean far below the hill on which the castle is perched.

A number of different tours take visitors through various parts of the house and grounds.

Reservations are recommended: although deceased, William Randolph Hearst discourages unexpected guests. Call (from outside the US): [phone], ext 4100, between 8am and 5pm.